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PostPosted: 22 Jul 2014, 22:32 
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Blade: Donic Waldner Senso V1
FH: Donic Baracuda Big Slam
BH: Victas Triple Regular
I'm unreal in front of the mirror, just don't put a table, ball and opponent in front of me.

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Donic Waldner Senso V1,FH Baracuda Big Slam 2.0mm ,BH Victas Triple Regular 2.0mm


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PostPosted: 23 Jul 2014, 10:27 
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Cobalt wrote:
I'm unreal in front of the mirror, just don't put a table, ball and opponent in front of me.


Haha, but please don't stare at yourself too much :)

Not sure if you are familiar with these videos, but I suggest you might like to check out on YouTube videos by:

TTEdge
Table Tennis Master / Table Tennis University
Ping Skill

They are a good guide.

Just go slow when learning new skills, focus on one or two things and get better at them first... Forehand drive and brush... Don't worry if the shots aren't going in early on, just focus on the stroke - they should be quite streamlined and will feel natural. And every now and then mix it with a bit of backhand and forehand push shot practice to get the delicate or finesse touches. Not everything in TT is brute force, you can always use your opponent's power (e.g. block shots to beat them).

I also find that bouncing the ball on racket is a good way to develop touches - you can try it with different spins to learn racket angles etc from it; extremely useful. And for rh players, keeping the left index finger touching your right elbow when performing forehand drive is a trick to help develop a compact forehand stroke.


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PostPosted: 23 Jul 2014, 23:37 
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Blade: Donic Waldner Senso V1
FH: Donic Baracuda Big Slam
BH: Victas Triple Regular
Played my first competition matches with the new rubbers and played pretty well, at least for my first 2 matches. Took a scalp I hadn't beaten before though we were pretty even the previous 2 times.

I can definitely feel that the rubber isn't doing all the work and that is encouraging me to do a full stroke. Doing a high follow through is becoming more natural than going across my chest. I'm having to hit the ball hard to get value for shots but am more confident in doing so as they just seem to be doing on more which gives more confidence etc. Less hesitation perhaps. When doing the correct stroke, there was plenty enough speed and spin in the 1.8mm magic carbon on forehand. One thing I did notice was that I did less of the REALLY slow spinny topspins compared to the Jupiter 2.2mm.The CJ8000 was really good at blocking on backand but spinny topspins could have been better. Not too worried about that as my backhand wasn't that bad, its forehand I'm trying to develop.

In summary I can see why its recommended to go slow whilst developing ie learn to walk before you can run. Will definately stick with this for a season or two.

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PostPosted: 28 Jul 2014, 22:55 
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Had another good hit with the magic carbon tonight, really happy and don't seem to be losing anything by going 1.8mm. Used my old Jupiter on the stiga evolution and balls started going long so I found myself holding back. I'm sure nothing a slight adjustment wouldn't fix but was just interesting. Enjoyed playing with the allplay and magic carbon better as I was able to have a real go with no fear.

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PostPosted: 29 Jul 2014, 00:14 
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Cobalt wrote:
Had another good hit with the magic carbon tonight, really happy and don't seem to be losing anything by going 1.8mm. Used my old Jupiter on the stiga evolution and balls started going long so I found myself holding back. I'm sure nothing a slight adjustment wouldn't fix but was just interesting. Enjoyed playing with the allplay and magic carbon better as I was able to have a real go with no fear.


That's awesome you still enjoy Magic Carbon, though not surprised. And, please don't forget to analyse your strokes!


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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2015, 16:41 
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BaiMile wrote:
Ок, I have played with Jupiter - it's something like chinese top-sheet on semi lively sponge.It's not typical chinese death rubber.


Out of curiosity, what are some typical "Chinese death rubbers"?

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 01 Apr 2015, 03:39 
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iskandar taib wrote:
BaiMile wrote:
Ок, I have played with Jupiter - it's something like chinese top-sheet on semi lively sponge.It's not typical chinese death rubber.


Out of curiosity, what are some typical "Chinese death rubbers"?

Iskandar

I think death rubbers force you to do all the work and swing hard to make the proper shot. Correct me if I'm wrong. So I guess Friendship Cream Transcend and Super Fx are this kind of rubbers (hard sponge, not so bouncy).

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PostPosted: 15 Apr 2015, 08:47 
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It does sound like "death rubbers" would be just the thing for developing technique, then - and from descriptions I've read, H3 would be the ultimate "death rubber".

Iskandar


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