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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2017, 14:37 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Problem with acetone is, while it might not dissolve rubber or cause it to swell, it might be drying it out. They add emollients to NPR for a purpose, people don't like dry, cracked nails. So I'd choose not to use it unless a LOT of other people use it and report that it does no damage. One recommendation doesn't cut it unless it was a rubber and blade I didn't care about.


I don't think applying NPR /acetone using a foam end or cloth will allow the volatile liquid to get absorbed into the rubber sponge. You aren't pouring it on the rubber. You are pressing at the edges and under the glue. This allows you to easily peel back the rubber sheet without stretching or tearing it since the glue is no longer "sticky". I have NEVER seen any dryness or cracking or any kind of damage from removing rubbers this way! And note I am still using this EVERY TIME to remove rubbers from blades. It has been NEARLY SIX years of doing this. My rubbers have lasted close to 2 years or more and don't have any damage.

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The real issue is glue that is too strong for use on table tennis rubbers. Just avoid them. There's a whole thread on water-based glues on this forum, just use the ones recommended or what you find doesn't damage rubbers and blades. Probably best to avoid latex body paint too (which Igor recommended). This was never an issue before water-based glues came along, back then everyone used rubber cement or branded stuff like Chack.


Even WBG glues can be too strong! Especially that Andro VOCfree glues! Tibhar CleanFix tends to be easier to deal with. Also the main reason to go the NPR / acetone way of removal is to NOT DAMAGE the rubber AND the blade! Try it on some cheap rubber/blade and you will see why I keep recommending this :-)

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Anyhow.. came across this this weekend:

Image

Not sure how it would work for removing table tennis rubbers (note the "non-acetone" wording) but it sure sounds painful. Something one associates with the Spanish Inquisition.. :lol:

Iskandar


:rofl: Can't say why anyone would want ERASE their nails :rofl: Nail remover ? ehh ? :rofl:

_________________
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Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2017, 17:41 
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man_iii wrote:
Even WBG glues can be too strong! Especially that Andro VOCfree glues! Tibhar CleanFix tends to be easier to deal with. Also the main reason to go the NPR / acetone way of removal is to NOT DAMAGE the rubber AND the blade! Try it on some cheap rubber/blade and you will see why I keep recommending this :-)


It's the water based glues that are the problem. Just avoid the ones that are known to stick too hard. Better yet just use Elmer's rubber cement.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 13 Sep 2017, 12:22 
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The WBG thread is here, by the way:

viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12276

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2018, 03:35 
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1. This contrivance should work on the non-boosted rubbers.

BE HAPPY.



2. Will do for heavy boosted rubbers.


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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2018, 22:40 
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Xiom Carbo sponge rubbers will shrink by as much as 2mm all round if repeatedly reglued at which point they becomes somewhat bouncy and less crisp to play with.

Having recently bought a 1.8mm red sheet of Asia Df to try on various blades I went to glue it onto a newly acquired TSP black balsa 4.0 and found it had shrunk significantly. So resorted to heating the sheet rubber facing down on the top of a boiled kettle and stretching it for several minutes and then while still warm glued it on the blade stretching it out at the same time. Rubber is now full size again and on bouncing a ball against wall feels much crisper and more like when it was new. Will know more after trying out later this week but very optimistic.


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