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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 24 May 2018, 02:15 
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Ah I see now yeah, they have some cool looking equipment tho :P
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Huieson-Carbon-Fiber-Table-Tennis-Racket-Double-Face-Pimples-in-Racket-Rubber-Table-Tennis-Bat-with/32792848029.html

the racket is "Glued with Special Carbon Powder Gum, So the Racket Blade is Lightweight and of Great Rebounding Power"
anything that starts with "special" must be top quality!

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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 25 May 2018, 14:38 
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You've seen their robot, right?

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Profess ... 03514.html

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:lol:

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 30 May 2018, 05:55 
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I haven't before, amazing technology!


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 30 May 2018, 15:10 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
There is a lot of Chinese asserting that this helps generate spin-heavy strokes without damaging racket by hitting the table. I personally doubt how effective or efficient this type of "robo" trainer can be for a player. You have to play a moving ball else how do you get the timing to play the stroke ??

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 01 Jun 2018, 00:08 
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Blade: Hurricane Long 3
FH: DHS Hurricane 3 P
BH: Tibhar MX-P
I don't think it's about the timing of the stoke. My coach will sometimes place a small empty plastic bottle on the table, and put the ball where the cap would be normally. He then encourages the kid to brush hit the ball so that it lands on the other side of the table, but the bottle must NOT be knocked over. It gives the feeling of a correct stroke. This does help develop the FH or BH loop, but it is a pain picking up the balls. The Device above, although there are others, would do the same job, and is more adjustable. But I don't know how substantial it is.

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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 21 Jun 2018, 21:13 
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Just opened the packet on that sheet of TinArc 5 I've had lying around since last January. A little bit of a surprise - it's quite different from TinArc 3. TinArc 3 has a deep red sponge, this one is an off-white. Neither has large pores. The TinArc 5 sponge has tiny parallel ridges that gives it a little bit of surface texture. Tin Arc 3 was non-tacky, and didn't have the thin plastic sheet over the surface (IIRC), which would be similar to Japanese/German/Big Dipper rubbers. Tin Arc 5 DOES have a thin plastic sheet. Not sure if it's tacky, I haven't removed said sheet yet. There's also a sheet of white paper on the BACK (the sponge side), with "windows" cut in it - no idea why, there's no corresponding holes on the back of the packet (sometimes it's to show what the sponge looks like). AND it was vacuum packed. Really had a vacuum in the bag. The bag is unlike what you get with Yinhe and Palio rubbers, it's thin cellophane (much like the plastic you find OUTSIDE the cardboard packaging that comes with a sheet of Rasant), except this one is INSIDE the cardboard. The cardboard is sealed with a tear-off strip (like TinArc 3 - can't say I've seen packaging like this on any other rubbers I've ever bought, including H3). There is NO advertising sheet inside (like there was with TinArc III). The sponge is a little crumbly, cut slowly. The back-packet blurb says TinArc 5 was designed for the plastic ball - not really sure when it came out. No indication of sponge hardness on the packet (don't think there was a choice). I bought it mainly because it was on deep sale at the time at one of the Eachengs.

Anyhow..

DHS Tin Arc 5 - 4 corners cut
black 64.31g 166x171.5mm 0.233g/cm^2.

My old TinArc 3 post.

viewtopic.php?f=44&t=25211&start=315#p332994

There is, of course, no TinArc 4. Bad Feng Shui.

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 29 Jun 2018, 23:49 
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Not sure if it has been mentioned, but many of this training rubbers may have good QC (for the price especially) but the hardness is random. This is because most websites which sell it buy a bulk and do not pay attention to hardness. Thickness is only a small problem, just poorly noted, the Kokutaku training rubber says 2.2 for example but is more like 2.05, but you can know this. However the hardness difference can be huge. I got a new pair and it was much harder than the first, I could tell already because my old ones had 1 cream colour, 1 yellow colour. Now it's both yellow and they are even harder than the yellow one in the other which was a bit harder (medium) than the cream (soft). Perhaps you can contact the seller and ask them which hardness they currently have and get the one you want, but be careful.


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 30 Jun 2018, 11:46 
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This depends on the particular sheets you're talking about.. for instance, those 2 for 1 packs of Yinhe 9000 I am fond of. Or those bulk packs of 729 that Eacheng sells. For these, the sponge hardness is unknown.. I have had sheets of 729 just marked "Training Sponge". On the other hand.
Batwings ALWAYS has the sponge hardness marked on the packet. So do pretty much all the retail packed $5 sheets out there, including the 2 for 1 packs of 868 in the pink or gold wrappers. Yes, Eacheng doesn't usually advertise sponge hardnesses, but if you ask them they will tell you what is in stock.

Note that 868 comes in a huge range of packagings, not just the 2 for 1. These are all with different sponges and even surface treatments (non-tacky, super-tacky, etc.) and are more expensive. I would be very surprised if the sponge hardness isn't marked on the package for these.

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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 21 Jul 2018, 01:53 
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Just played with the TinArc 5 this afternoon, at Social Doubles. It's been about a month since I stuck it on, too.. but the boosted, rejuvenated Rakza X was feeling so nice, plus limited playing opportunities meant the TinArc 5 sat in the bag all this while. I put a sheet of the $5 Palio Emperor Dragon on the other side (it's still REALLY impressive rubber).

Anyhow.. the TinArc 5 had a "protector sheet" on it, like a tacky sheet, unlike TinArc 3. BUT after I removed it, the rubber wasn't tacky at all (kinda like Yasaka ZAP in this regard). The surface of the rubber is slightly textured (unlike most Chinese rubbers, which are smooth and shiny). The first thing I noticed was it was somewhat slow (compared to the Rakza X, and indeed, it seemed slower than the Emperor Dragon on the other side). It also made sort of a "thunk" sound when hitting the ball. Totally different from the other side of the bat. I tried flipping the bat over, and I was able to play quite well with the Emperor Dragon on the forehand - the usual crisp loops and hits. Don't know if I like the TinArc 5 - I can do everything I usually can do with it, but it does seem a little slower than I like. And that sound is weird. It'll take more evaluation (I'm taking it to the Chiang Mai club next week, should get a lot of playing time there). I might end up using it on the backhand (I think it was designed as a backhand rubber in the first place - of course, in the Chinese context Tenergy 05 is a "backhand rubber").

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 25 Jul 2018, 18:33 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
Just yesterday I stuck Dawei 388A-4 2.15mm 43 deg Red/Black on my 729 Bomb blade.

It felt just too hard, ball not travelling forward enough .... spin not dipping the ball down to the table ... Not getting the feeling of the ball sinking into the rubber ... pushes requiring more lift ... can't flat-hit ... not able to loop-kill / loop-drive ... etc.

Next I am going to try the rubbers on TSP Black Balsa.

Anyone experience with playing Dawei 388A-4 ? What kind of techniques can work really well with this rubber ?

So far the best combo on the 729 Bomb I played was 729 OEM blue sponge with Tibhar 5Q sound red rubber. :lol: Cracking loops/kills/smashes/pushes/cuts/drop balls/counterloops/etc :rofl:

From personal experience, as beginner, soft top-ply blades play best with soft/medium rubbers only and hard top-ply blades pair well with med-hard-veryhard rubbers only.

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 14 Aug 2018, 02:28 
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man_iii wrote:
From personal experience, as beginner, soft top-ply blades play best with soft/medium rubbers only and hard top-ply blades pair well with med-hard-veryhard rubbers only.


I've heard the opposite, but what do I know.. :lol: (If you search around you'll find opinions on the subject scattered around...)

For the last month or so I've been playing with TinArc 5 and the Generic Emperor Dragon. Except I now have the TinArc 5 on the backhand. On the forehand it is a little too slow for my liking, and I wonder if it's bottoming out, which would be causing that THUNK sound. If so the sponge must be terribly soft. Nowhere near unusable, nothing at all like Ckylin. But very different from TinArc 3. The Rakza X has shrunk again so it's currently stewing in the boosting box with an application of Falco. Topsheet's still usable.

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 14 Aug 2018, 03:23 
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iskandar taib wrote:
man_iii wrote:
From personal experience, as beginner, soft top-ply blades play best with soft/medium rubbers only and hard top-ply blades pair well with med-hard-veryhard rubbers only.


I've heard the opposite, but what do I know.. :lol: (If you search around you'll find opinions on the subject scattered around...)

For the last month or so I've been playing with TinArc 5 and the Generic Emperor Dragon. Except I now have the TinArc 5 on the backhand. On the forehand it is a little too slow for my liking, and I wonder if it's bottoming out, which would be causing that THUNK sound. If so the sponge must be terribly soft. Nowhere near unusable, nothing at all like Ckylin. But very different from TinArc 3. The Rakza X has shrunk again so it's currently stewing in the boosting box with an application of Falco. Topsheet's still usable.

Iskandar


Bad news on the Boosted Dawei Black rubber with 4 layers of Falco Tempo :@ Topsheet separated after forming giant bubble first 5 mins of playing some FH topspins :-P

I am going to transfer my TG2Neo to the Battle Balsa. Continue to use the red Dawei on the BH.

It is crazy how easy some of the rubber topsheets just come unstuck after boosting :-P

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 14 Aug 2018, 13:45 
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Some of the cheaper Chinese rubber brands don't have very strong topsheet to sponge bonding. 868, for instance, will come loose in about 2 years. Speed gluing and boosting will probably cause the glue to weaken, not to mention that if you apply the rubber which is still domed, you put stress on the topsheet/sponge bond. Four applications of Falco does seem a little extreme, I imagine this would cause extreme tacolitis, unless you let the rubber sit and unroll (might take a couple weeks.. :lol: ) you'd be putting a LOT of stress on the bond. If you want to try extreme boosting maybe a Japanese or German rubber would be far less likely to separate, given that it's almost impossible to separate the sponge from the topsheet, and a lot of these were designed to be (factory) boosted to begin with.

Iskandar


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 Post subject: Re: Training rubber
PostPosted: 14 Aug 2018, 13:57 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Some of the cheaper Chinese rubber brands don't have very strong topsheet to sponge bonding. 868, for instance, will come loose in about 2 years. Speed gluing and boosting will probably cause the glue to weaken, not to mention that if you apply the rubber which is still domed, you put stress on the topsheet/sponge bond. Four applications of Falco does seem a little extreme, I imagine this would cause extreme tacolitis, unless you let the rubber sit and unroll (might take a couple weeks.. :lol: ) you'd be putting a LOT of stress on the bond. If you want to try extreme boosting maybe a Japanese or German rubber would be far less likely to separate, given that it's almost impossible to separate the sponge from the topsheet, and a lot of these were designed to be (factory) boosted to begin with.

Iskandar


Yep, I let the rubber sit and "un-Taco" for about 2 weeks after 2 layers of Falco, and then again 2 layers for about 1 hour ... and then stuck the rubbers on with minimal pressure. No noticeable defects or weird "dents" or other indications. Took it out at the club, examined the rubbers which looked very nice.

5 mins into FH topspins and my partner mentioned odd bump on the black sheet. Realised that it had just then bubbled. It was fine when I was counter-hitting and blocking. The rubber screwed up when I had a go at FH Topspin :P

I have several sheets of ~ 5$ USD 729 rubbers ( 729-2, -5, SuperFX, OEM, OEM-bluesponge ) all of which have gone through 3 layers of Falco and after more than 2-3 years of continuous on/off use, still work beautifully.

Im going to Falco the DHS TG2Neo ( about 1 month old now ? ) and see if I can work with that for my "training" :lol: :-D

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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