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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2014, 04:30 
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By far the easiest to chop with inverted rubber I have ever used was this:
KOKUTAKU BLütenkirsche 868(TENSION, SUPER-TACKY). It is less than 12 US dollars at eacheng. Now other strokes are a totally different story, but if I was going to play a pure chopping game this would be it.

the sponge is hard as a rock and dead!


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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2014, 20:01 
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Old-Man-Southpaw wrote:
I am very interested to hear of any rubbers that are very spinny, somewhat tacky, reasonably light or at least not heavy, and fast enough to hit with, but still good at chopping, Chinese or otherwise?

The Victas VS 401 fits this criteria, except that it's relatively heavy. It's tremendous for chopping though and has plenty pf speed for hitting.

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PostPosted: 12 Sep 2014, 21:03 
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haggisv wrote:
Old-Man-Southpaw wrote:
I am very interested to hear of any rubbers that are very spinny, somewhat tacky, reasonably light or at least not heavy, and fast enough to hit with, but still good at chopping, Chinese or otherwise?

The Victas VS 401 fits this criteria, except that it's relatively heavy. It's tremendous for chopping though and has plenty pf speed for hitting.


I tried it in 1.8 thick red, and the VS>401 does chop very well, but yes, it was very heavy, and trying to hit with it was a failure due to both weight and speed.

Since then, I got some Grip-S Europe 1.8, and it chopped very well, too, but was also to slow to hit with, so then I decided I NEEDED faster rubber, but also a lighter setup, so I got some Grip-S Europe Soft MAX, and THEN I filed down the blade to 1/2 way between its original size (was same as my 1976 Butterfly Secretin-K) and my Yasaka Extra. Its still about 160 x 163 but that reduced the weight by 14 grams down to 144 gm with edge epoxy, edge tape, handle tape, and all, and now its just barely light enough that I can swing it faster, and am now trying to learn to hit again instead of just chopping everything under the sun. That also has helped my inverted chopping vs big loops because I can get more racket speed on the chops, which is needed or I pop the ball up. People think I'm nuts, LOL.

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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2014, 20:06 
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You ought to try LKT XT Pro, light, tacky, very spinny, great for chopping, blocking, serves, hitting and top spinning!

Oh and cheap!

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PostPosted: 13 Dec 2014, 20:39 
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I think tacky for backhand is a bad idea, and you can see that if not all, most Chinese Nat Team use Tenergy 05 on the BH and Tacky rubbers on the FH. Why is this? It's because to get a lot of spin, you need a fast and big swing with tacky rubbers. They're also much more sensitive to spin -- not good for BH. They also not nearly as good for blocking.

With Tenergy, you need a mere micro wrist movement to blast the ball with loads of spin.

Donic Slice 40 and Tackiness Chop 2 are quite tacky but not Chinese tacky. Also add Tibhar Super Defense. The Donic was pretty light.

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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2014, 00:36 
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I always thought the reason they used Tenergy on the backhand was because you get less power on the backhand and H3 requires a lot of power to be used properly.

I honestly can't tell between tacky and non-tacky rubber most of the time - tacky would be most Chinese rubber (including the Dragons I like to use, and what I'm playing with mostly these days which is Apollo III) and non-tacky would be Shark, Yasaka ZAP and that Tensor I bought. Currently I'm using 9000 on my backhand, its fairly tacky. Nothing I've come across is as tacky as 729 back in the 1980s - that stuff would pick up a ball (albeit a 38mm one) when just cleaned. Tackiness Chop would also, though it wasn't near as tacky as 729. Back then we thought 729 was fast (mainly because it had hard sponge) and beginners were warned it was hard to use.

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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2014, 01:13 
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haggisv wrote:
I think it depends a lot on personal preference. For soft and slow balls I find it easier to load up the spin with tacky rubbers, but for other parts of the game it seems just as spinny, and the non-tacky tends to be a little less sensitive to spin.
If you're going to loop as well, real tacky rubbers seem not as spinny, but with mildly tacky or non-tacky I seem to be able to get plenty of spin.


Exactly how I feel. With a purpose, if I use a tacky rubber (999 or H3) I will remove the heavy tack and get to be only mild tack. Gives me best of both worlds in summer. Not as reactive to spin, and resistant to moisture forming on topsheet.

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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2014, 01:19 
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The easiest short explaination I can say for what defines tacky and grippy is that tacky is sticky. it gets its spin from a hard hit thorugh slightly off center and the stickiness combined with the bat accelleration struck just off center hit gives the heavy spin. On the same shot, a grippy rubber is not sticky, but the topsheets tend to be a little thinner and more elastic and on impact, the topsheet wraps the ball more to get the adhesion required and the rebound of the deformation of topsheet/sponge combined with the speed/accelleration (usually ball struck with a slightly more closed angle) gives the spin.

Looking at that explaination, I can see why we would still be troubled about what is different. I suppose it would be the role of how the topsheet is engaged.

I usually tell people tacky rubbers are sticky and grippy ones are not sticky, but still have decent adhesion if enough of the topsheet can contact the ball.

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PostPosted: 19 Aug 2017, 20:56 
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Reviving this old thread.

What would be better for slow spinny loops? The ones that you barely touch the ball and it travels over like slow motion. You know your opponent is in trouble (at my level) and sure enough the ball sails long of the block.

Tacky or non-tacky?

This is a shot i seem to have lost since going to Euro tensors but my stroke has also changed.

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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2017, 04:39 
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Tacky for me

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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2017, 11:01 
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2nd tacky hard sponged aka H3 class rubber for me [FACE SAVOURING DELICIOUS FOOD]

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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2017, 13:52 
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Cobalt wrote:
What would be better for slow spinny loops? The ones that you barely touch the ball and it travels over like slow motion. You know your opponent is in trouble (at my level) and sure enough the ball sails long of the block.

Tacky or non-tacky?

This is a shot i seem to have lost since going to Euro tensors but my stroke has also changed.

It depends lot about the blade. I am now experimenting with TSP reflex def blade, which is like all- in speed. I put T05 on it and it gives mostly "slow motion" very spinny loops, that lover level players block way off the table. Loops dip like a swan in a lake. :lol: I have still to test, if slow motion loops have any effect against middle or higher level players. But surely they are fun to watch, when opponent has all the time to adjust the blade angle with tongue in the middle of the mouth, but still the ball go sky high on block. :rofl:

With my Joola CWX blade slow motion loops are barely doable, with JSH blade they are very hard to do, because there will be quite lot of speed in the ball, if I go for max swing.


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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2017, 18:06 
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Stiga Genesis Series looks interesting. Maybe similar to Tibhar K1 Hybrid? What other rubbers out there are tacky tensors? I think Victas V40X series is another. Xiom Vega China as well. Might have answered my own question. :?:

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PostPosted: 20 Aug 2017, 18:09 
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For slow spinny loop barely touch the rubber, H3 > Vega China

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