OOAK Table Tennis Forum

lets use Geospin Tacky (GT) as point of reference, so,

Spinny rubber means spinnier and more spin sensitive than Geospin Tacky,

Slow rubber means less bouncy than Geospin Tacky. I like hard firm sponge better than mushy or bouncy ones.

Must be horizontal aligned pips, so Hurricane Series is out

new means, born or reborn after plastic ball era.

Ill use for forehand, for either chopping or looping.

Any ideas?

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That's not an easy question..
DHS PF4?

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My ooak blog.

Does the orientation of the pips really matter? In the old days Butterfly made Sriver L and Sriver S - the difference was the pips orientation. You'll notice that Sriver S is no longer being made, hasn't been for many, many years. You wonder if there really was a difference, and if there were one, whether the average player could detect it. Andro sells a rubber (can't recall the name) with two ID strips - lets you mount the rubber with either pips orientation. I suppose the idea's the same, and you wonder why Butterfly didn't do this back in the day. Two distinct rubbers means twice as many distinct stock items, and quite a bit of added rubber that would need to be kept in inventory.

Reminds me of a certain long pips rubber from the mid 1980s that had bent (long) pips - actually it was two layers of pips, the top layer was attacked at an offset to the bottom layer, so the effect was bent pips. This thing had FOUR ID strips - you could mount it with the pips "pointing" in any of the four directions! There really was some weird stuff being sold back then...

Iskandar

Doubtful! But I would be interested to know why the OP thinks it does...



Shifter!

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I played with both Sriver S and L 'back in the day' and they were very different. S was for flat hitting, L better for looping.

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Thank you so_devo.

To BeGo:
(Sorry I lost what I was typing and will type this more hurriedly.)
VS>401 (marketed as designed especially for chopping and I don't find that hard to believe) satisfies some of your requirements, including the horizontally aligned pips (and I'm guessing that that was not an oversight at the factory, i.e., it *does* matter). Although it is not slow when hit hard, it is not bouncy and, to me, plays about like DHS 39d. Not slow when hit hard but is slow enough and very stable when cut thinly, I think, though I am not an expert on chopping. Read the other threads about it. With regard to bounciness it is much closer to Hurricane/Skyline than it is to for example OVA, much closer and I'm certain of this.
[Having said the above, if you don't feel like risking that much money you should try H3 or S2 non-NEO unboosted if you haven't yet. It is extremely stable but you have to work very hard.]

Thanks to all Good Fellows here.

Dear v100ev,

Yups, new PF4 feel kinda like GT. Less spinny though.

Dear Iskandar, LordCope, SoDevo,

Actually the other way around, GT is the only horizontal pips inverted rubber I have tried, so I feel that the sample size is too small, my experience is too lack for me to appreciate the difference between pips layout

Dear Zhaoyang,

Thanks, ill try vs>401 later. I actually have tried H3 control version, and that the only rubber I have tried that I can say for certain, spinnier than GT. I always keep one in red ready to assemble if opportunity exist.

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Yes, that was the way they were marketed. I'm surprised to hear they were VERY different, maybe there were other differences in addition to the pips orientation. No one ever worried about different sponge hardnesses back then, for instance. In any case, it's an easy experiment - just mount a sheet of rubber on its side and see how different it plays. I've been told that back then some people actually mounted the rubber upside down to cut off the ID strip - there was no rule saying there HAD to be an ID strip and some people wanted to hide what they were using.

Iskandar

Yes, that was the way they were marketed. I'm surprised to hear they were VERY different, maybe there were other differences in addition to the pips orientation. No one ever worried about different sponge hardnesses back then, for instance. In any case, it's an easy experiment - just mount a sheet of rubber on its side and see how different it plays. I've been told that back then some people actually mounted the rubber upside down to cut off the ID strip - there was no rule saying there HAD to be an ID strip and some people wanted to hide what they were using.

Iskandar[/quote]
[Facepalm]

That legal? Ok, another H3 for experiment.

Thanks Iskandar!

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Yes, that was the way they were marketed. I'm surprised to hear they were VERY different, maybe there were other differences in addition to the pips orientation. No one ever worried about different sponge hardnesses back then, for instance. In any case, it's an easy experiment - just mount a sheet of rubber on its side and see how different it plays. I've been told that back then some people actually mounted the rubber upside down to cut off the ID strip - there was no rule saying there HAD to be an ID strip and some people wanted to hide what they were using.

Iskandar[/quote]
[Facepalm]

That legal? Ok, another H3 for experiment.

Thanks Iskandar!

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There was a lot of stuff that was legal in the 1960s and 70s that isn't legal any more. I don't think you even had to have ITTF approved rubber back then, it just had to conform to the 1959 rules, which were pretty minimal. No LARC, no racket control, no need for an ID strip, in fact a lot of the rec level rackets didn't have them. A lot of the top players used anti, rubbers could be any (not to mention the same) color, so you can see why some people might not want ID strips on their rubbers.

Iskandar

I forgot that my blade too large for 90 deg turned H3.



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Try it with a different blade and a couple sheets of Batwings. Cheaper.

Iskandar