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PostPosted: 12 Aug 2017, 02:26 
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I think you might find that the Baby Oil ( Paraffin Oil or P.O. ) will make the Tensor "squishy" or "mushy" and you won't get that Catapult effect so easily !

Your Tensor is going to be too soft and will bottom-out like crazy and you'll be flat-hitting until all the P.O. has gotten out of the sponge :-P

Try it out and let us know whatever happens. This should be an interesting experiment :-D

Also if you want to get the P.O. seeping in at a much faster and higher rate, after brushing the P.O., leave the sponge soaking for about 30 mins to 1 hour and then later on come back with WD-40, a plastic ziplock bag and a plastic sheet cut-out from the rubber packaging. Then Spray WD-40 very close on the sponge while getting a LOT of "liquid" WD-40 sitting on the sponge, immediately cover it with the plastic sheet, put it all in the ZipLoc bag and seal it with the sponge facing up. If you want you can now Stack HUGE weights on it which will "squish" out the air, but the liquid will still seep in. And then remove the weights after a while, which should allow the sponge to expand and suck in more of the P.O.

Let us know how it goes :-D


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PostPosted: 29 Aug 2017, 01:47 
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Cobalt wrote:
man_iii wrote:
Baby oil aka Paraffin oil works very very well with Classic Euro and most Chinese rubbers. Anything from MarkV, 729 superFX , Palio CJ8000, DHS H3/H3N/TG2/TG2N/H3-50/TG3-60 :lol:

But I DON'T RECOMMEND Baby oil on Tensors ! Probably Falco Tempo ( or the Long) would work much better with all types of rubbers far more effectively and quicker.

And no more than 1 or 2 layers on the first attempt.
Too late. Mines currently drowning in baby oil. Little choice, need to stretch it a bit.


So what happened? :lol: Don't leave us in suspense...

Falco on the MX-P worked great. Forget what I paid for it (came from TT11) but at the rate I use it I can see it lasting a LONG time. There's enough in the bottle for another 15-20 boostings. Played with it this last weekend, I notice it's already started to shrink again - even while it's attached to the blade! But it appears "alive" again.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2017, 00:34 
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I've put a brand new black MX-P on my backhand and it does seem a bit faster than the one on the forehand, but this could be caused by it being newer. I'm starting to think that my forehand MX-P felt slower to me after re-gluing because I just got used to it. :D

It's probably worth mentioning that I am really enjoying that new MX-P on my backhand. Great spin and speed! :rock:


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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2017, 02:42 
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Sometimes this change in tension on regluing can be a plus.

Keen to try Xiom Vega Japan 1.8mm on my forehand my local dealer attached a sheet to my TSP balsa 4.5 with Revolution no 3 glue. First couple of times could not keep a ball on the table on even gentle topspin drives as it was so bouncy. Took it off the blade to try on a less springy andro temper tech all+. Peeling of the no3 glue broke away a bit of sponge so decided to reglue with VOC glue. Tried again and still too bouncy with no touch. So removed from blade and just left sheet to air.

Two weeks later it had shrunk by about 1.5mm all round so fixed again with VOC glue to a new TSP trinity carbon light carbon balsa blade. It now plays totally different with more touch and no unruly bounce, slow when needed to be and fast when hit harder..

Next time I get a new sheet of a Xiom carbo sponge tensor I am going to air the sheet for 2 weeks first!


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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2017, 15:46 
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ChasFox wrote:
Took it off the blade to try on a less springy andro temper tech all+. Peeling of the no3 glue broke away a bit of sponge so decided to reglue with VOC glue.


How many TIMES! Use nail polish remover !!!!! So that you don't end up damaging the sponge or sheet when removing !!! :lol:


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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2017, 18:17 
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man_iii wrote:

How many TIMES! Use nail polish remover !!!!! So that you don't end up damaging the sponge or sheet when removing !!! :lol:


Eh??? Never ever had to do that.... NPR contains acetone, by the way.. wonder what THAT does to the rubber.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2017, 18:38 
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I use masking tape to remove glue from sponge.

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PostPosted: 09 Sep 2017, 19:31 
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iskandar taib wrote:
man_iii wrote:

How many TIMES! Use nail polish remover !!!!! So that you don't end up damaging the sponge or sheet when removing !!! :lol:


Eh??? Never ever had to do that.... NPR contains acetone, by the way.. wonder what THAT does to the rubber.

Iskandar


NPR or acetone does nothing whatsoever to sponge or topsheet. It just dries and evaporates leaving no residue. Which is why I recommend so strongly and repeatedly to use it while removing rubber from blade.

Not worth the heartache of damaging the rubber or blade when not following well-tested and good advice.


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PostPosted: 10 Sep 2017, 04:37 
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You SURE it doesn't damage the rubber? How can you be sure? How long do your rubbers last? :lol: Can't say I've ever heard of anyone else doing this. Besides the acetone, NPR usually has other stuff like emollients added to it. No knowing from brand to brand, either.

In any case.. varnishing the blade keeps wood from peeling off.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 10 Sep 2017, 06:32 
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Acetone reacts with PolyStyrene and Plastics. Rubber is a completely different chemical compound and does not show adverse reaction to acetone vapors or liquids.

I'm not saying you need to DROWN your bat :lol: You just use a sponge or cloth to soak the acetone and apply it to the glue layer.

The Acetone or NPR works to "release" the WBG's glue layers from the wood layer. My rubbers have lasted for a VERY LONG TIME thank you for asking and so have my blades :-D

Also since I effectively carry a small bottle of NPR with my kit, I usually buy the ones that DONT HAVE PERFUME and other stuff added to it.

Even if there's stuff in the NPR it hasn't caused any issues. I don't think "perfumes" will affect rubber topsheet or sponges ;) At least not to any degree that I would have noticed. :rofl:

One side-effect I have observed is Acetone or NPR reacts with PU Wood Varnish! It shows up as white patches on the varnish which doesn't affect the varnish layer or degrade it. Unless you detest looking at your bare blade with white streaks on it, it doesn't matter.

I will happily share all the anecdotal info from my continued use of NPR to removing rubbers. Please do ask me more stuff :-D If any of this helps even one forum member prevent damage to rubber and blade, I will gladly and happily keep on giving this info :lol: :-D


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PostPosted: 10 Sep 2017, 09:06 
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Dusty054 wrote:
I use masking tape to remove glue from sponge.
Great tip though I usually don't worry as I've never noticed a change of performance or not importantly a change in my results.

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PostPosted: 10 Sep 2017, 10:35 
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Cobalt wrote:
Great tip though I usually don't worry as I've never noticed a change of performance or not importantly a change in my results.


Yeah not always necessary in fact with very open pore sponges it can be easier to leave it on since I sometimes need 2 coats anyway. But if you want to, it works a treat. I tried it after seeing this:


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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2017, 12:46 
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Problem with acetone is, while it might not dissolve rubber or cause it to swell, it might be drying it out. They add emollients to NPR for a purpose, people don't like dry, cracked nails. So I'd choose not to use it unless a LOT of other people use it and report that it does no damage. One recommendation doesn't cut it unless it was a rubber and blade I didn't care about.

The real issue is glue that is too strong for use on table tennis rubbers. Just avoid them. There's a whole thread on water-based glues on this forum, just use the ones recommended or what you find doesn't damage rubbers and blades. Probably best to avoid latex body paint too (which Igor recommended). This was never an issue before water-based glues came along, back then everyone used rubber cement or branded stuff like Chack.

Anyhow.. came across this this weekend:

Image

Not sure how it would work for removing table tennis rubbers (note the "non-acetone" wording) but it sure sounds painful. Something one associates with the Spanish Inquisition.. :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2017, 14:07 
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I have used NPR on removing Calibra LT, Butterfly Tenergy05, Donic BlueFire, DHS rubbers, 729 rubbers, Palio CJ8000, LKT Rapid Speed, Yasaka rubbers, Xiom rubbers, Sanwei rubbers, Joola rubbers, Tibhar rubbers, I dunno if I missed out other rubbers I removed on friends rackets, old rackets, etc.

NPR with acetone or the other non-acetone ( something acetate?? ) both work, only the non-acetone one requires a lot more time to apply and remove the rubber. Acetone NPR works real fast and real easy. It evaporates almost instantly. I have NEVER seen acetone remain for more than 4 - 5 seconds. It again acts fast and in seconds and works easily to remove the rubber off the blade leaving no residue.

If more people used NPR then I guess you should be convinced. I am not sure how many people tried it out and got to report back on the forums :lol:

One of the real effective use for NPR with acetone is when removing PO ( OX ) rubber sheets. Just keep pressing a foam or cloth soaked in NPR under the rubber sheet and keep slowly peeling the PO off without stretching or damage. You have to go slow and steady and the sections lift off, and :party: your PO sheet is in perfect condition off the blade. :lol:


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PostPosted: 11 Sep 2017, 14:18 
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Dusty054 wrote:
Cobalt wrote:
Great tip though I usually don't worry as I've never noticed a change of performance or not importantly a change in my results.


Yeah not always necessary in fact with very open pore sponges it can be easier to leave it on since I sometimes need 2 coats anyway. But if you want to, it works a treat. I tried it after seeing this:



I tried this is ripped sponge material off very soft and hard sponge rubber sheets :@

This doesn't work for all rubber/sponge types. Also some masking tape can be very strong or very weak. :lol: so YMMV and not very reliable to remove glue from the sponge :P

Orange oil leaves a gunky mess which can be removed but takes too long. Baby oil ( paraffin oil ) boosts rubber instead of helping remove glue. :lol:

The old fashioned way of gently rubbing and peeling off glue bits takes :@ hours! Leaving blisters on fingers. But works every time and on all types of sponges and rubbers. But :@ long a :cash: :cash: time and sore fingers. :^)

Best solution that I have found out so far, BUY DHS No.15 GLUE ! The one that comes in small bottles. Very thick, very gooey, looks like toothpaste. Even after 2 - 3 months the WBG glue on the sponge peels off like a sheet ! Its a dream come true kinda glue !!!

I have my own "solution" of Tibhar CleanFix , Andro VOCfree and Nittaku FineZip that I mix up using a "SECRET" ratio of 2:1:1 ;) ( not really a secret now is it ;) ) :rofl:

But now, DHS No.15 glue is my BEST WBG EVER! It peels off. It sticks. It isn't runny. Excellent all around. Nothing compares to it.

:-)


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