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 Post subject: Re: Hardbat Blades
PostPosted: 01 Jun 2016, 07:53 
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Blade: LKT Instinct 5-ply
FH: Butterfly Orthodox OX
BH: Butterfly Orthodox OX
Alx,
my perception is that the 2 North American sources for
LKT Toxic blades (zeropong and colestt)
only stock straight handles.

Maybe,
If I really want a flared handled Toxic 3 badly enough,
I could special order from one of two N.A. vendors
and
be prepared to be very, very patient.

I did see the flared handle Toxic blades advertised outside of North America
so you have educated me that they exist.
Thanks.

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Blade from Juic Smasher pre-made
FH and BH: Yasaka A-1-2


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 Post subject: Re: Hardbat Blades
PostPosted: 10 Jun 2016, 06:34 
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Anybody try single-ply hinoki (or cypress/cedar) hardbat? Seems like the softness+flexibility could potentially work really well with an aggressive style.


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 Post subject: Re: Hardbat Blades
PostPosted: 03 Nov 2016, 21:09 
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Blade: LKT Instinct 5-ply
FH: Butterfly Orthodox OX
BH: Butterfly Orthodox OX
Continuing the theme of my post of 29 May 2016....

About a month ago I began using a older hardbat setup assembled about 2007...
Blade: from a Juic Smasher pre-made with the original rubber removed
Rubber, both sides: Yasaka A-1-2 A~1.
My goal is mainly to see of the slightly less spinny rubber (vs Butterfly OX)
would make serve return easier.
[Serve returns turned out to be about the same.]

But,
the Juic/Yasaka, 155gm, set-up is heavier than my LktInstinct5/BtyOX, 125gm, set-up,
but not as heavy feeling as the Barna/AndroClassic set-up from my 29-May-2016 post.

I'm liking the more stable feeling on blocks.

But alas, my level of play is about the same. Sigh.

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Blade from Juic Smasher pre-made
FH and BH: Yasaka A-1-2


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 Post subject: Re: Hardbat Blades
PostPosted: 21 Oct 2018, 07:56 
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Blade: 729 1060 all raquet
FH: 729
BH: 729
We found 729 1060 racket with 729 rubbers an allround and soft blade
only make this rubbers hardbat without the orange sponge and glue the rubber pips out / good control and spin

2040 729 racket too fast=soft hardbat offensive blade without control
2040 729 + dr evil rubber make slow defensive racket

eacheng.net
729 c5 allround blade --8.00
KTL Instinct / 729 c2 (all+) 10.00
729 c1 (all) 13.75
big defense blades lkt toxic 3 / 729 w1 / sanwei defence -- 20.00
+ ship


Last edited by spanner on 27 Oct 2018, 03:07, edited 10 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Hardbat Blades
PostPosted: 21 Oct 2018, 08:54 
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Joined: 06 Sep 2007, 04:30
Posts: 124
Location: Villebon-sur-Yvette (France)
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For those interested, I'm selling Dunlop Barna Original blades, new in their package. They come from the stock of an old sport shop which closed in the 80's or 90's. I got 3 left, 25 € each, shipping depends on your country (6,15 € to France, 12,30 € to EU, 24 € to USA...). You can find them with pics on Ebay : https://www.ebay.fr/itm/Bois-Dunlop-Barna-Original-Blade/232945464807

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Hardbat France, the first French association to promote hardbat
http://www.hardbat-france.fr/


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 Post subject: Re: Hardbat Blades
PostPosted: 27 Oct 2018, 03:14 
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Blade: 729 1060 all raquet
FH: 729
BH: 729
LordCope wrote:
gnopgnipster wrote:
Greetings Lord Cope, I am sorry you think I am "pimping my wares" simply because I invited you to visit a company located in the UK that caters to Hardbat players in Europe. (It is a lot cheaper to ship products from UK than from the US thus passing the savings to table tennis players) The idea was for you to visit the website, see if you liked any of the products, and then ask questions of the staff, or comparison questions about Hardbat products.


It's me that should say sorry. I was unfairly harsh. I did feel a bit annoyed, because I've done a fair amount of reading the history of the forum and I notice that you seem to pop up with the same recommendation each time. But I'm sure you meant well.

Quote:
Hardbat "rules" are very different in Europe than in the USA.


Right now I'm really only interested in 'any' hardbat setup, because I enjoyed the sensation and felt it was an interesting educational thing to try too.

Quote:
Classic hardbats are very different from modern sponge bats. In the "old" days a good heavy bat (ie. Slazenger, Barna, Hock...) was considered to be a professional Bat. Light-weight bats were considered for amateurs. I try to make them as close to the old ones as possible. I have some Barna bats that are in pristine condition. They are very different in how they play to the modern ones. Mostly I believe it has to do with the rubber. In the old days you had very short pimpled rubber that slowed the speed and thus increased the spin. Today because of ITTF's rulings the pips in the rubber have to be larger and thus are faster and don't generate as much spin. I take some of that back, there are some rubbers that are not approved for Hardbat in the USA that are very spinny.


Thanks - very interesting and useful background.

Quote:
In my opinion the number one thing to look for in a Hardbat is control. I know some people have said that "control" is a fabrication by manufacturers to dupe amateurs, but if you have (for example) a blade that is full of knots in the inside layers, or that the layers are not well glued, you will have a blade with very poor control. The ball simply will not go were you hit it.


Yep that seems to make sense.

Quote:
The game of hardbat is a game of control, being able to make the drop-shots, hit the ball at extreme angles, make good blocks. The next item is the speed of the blade. Some players like fast blades because their technique is good and can make the shots without having to make fast body movements. The slower blades are generally better for an all-round type of game.


Very interesting. My experience from the last few nights is this: My "normal" blade is a Tibhar Defence Plus. This is very light and very slow, but capable of quite a sudden acceleration. I play OX LP on one side, and inverted or SP with sponge on the other. I noticed with the hardbat I've borrowed, that the blade seems to be much faster. That is I need to hit the ball much less hard to get it on the table, and that when I swap back to my 'normal' bat I'm not hitting the ball hard enough. This interests me because I believe that the Euro Chopper is also quite a slow blade. This made me wonder if there was a variable I was missing.

I'm interested to get a hardbat setup of my own, and was pondering sticking something (Dr Evil, 799 or 802) on a spare Tibhar Defence Plus blade. As it happens I was already buying something for a friend, and managed to pick up a Joola All-Round Special for a bargain price, with Dr Evil on each side, so I'll start with that, but I might well put something on the TD+ too, to compare and contrast.

Quote:
These are some general opinions.

I will try to go to the UK later this year. Maybe we can play some Hardbat and drink a few beers afterwards.

CHEERS!


That would be a lot of fun. Thanks, and sorry again for my unfair response.

dr evil + defensive blade make a very very low speed blade


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