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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2014, 07:19 
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Greetings,,,
I did some searching on the net and here: now, I come here to post... I also posted this elsewhere, today.

Issue: Caring for HOCK blade or Blades in General. Protecting Investment of Vintage Equipment or Just General Protection of Blades & Repair or Not to Repair Solutions...

Questions: My HOCK blade had a slight bit of splintering when I removed the top sheet. What are your recommendations for dealing with this, precautions to avoid splintering, and what remedies to deal with this splintering issues: such as, should wood glue ever be used to fill splinters or other solutions and your views and time appreciated on this matter.

Peace,,,

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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2014, 08:30 
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I've also seen a Hock blade lost to irreversible splintering when trying to remove some sponge rubbers someone had put on it years before (without sealing it).

So yeah, the best thing you can do for any vintage blade is a good sealing job.

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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2014, 14:27 
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Got this response via my Hawaiian,,, Connection,,,lol,, Friend Len Winkler...

Quote:
From my friend Jay, your answers:

First of all, I would avoid water based glues. Use rubber cement. I think it is less likely to splinter.
You might consider using a thin coat of Wipe on poly urethane satin finish. If the splinters are large enough so that you think they need filling, I suggest using a wood putty that will harden and is sandable.
In the end you have to decide if you keeping the Hock blade to play with or to collect. Many players think that the blades should be used. If you agree., then sensible repairs and maintenance along with wear and tear are to be expected. Hock blades are not extremely rare yet. So I say "play on.".


Thanks,,,

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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2014, 19:19 
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Dark Knight
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Blade: Trinity Carbon
FH: Victas VS > 401
BH: Dr N Troublemaker OX
That makes sense... it's really no different to other TT blades.

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PostPosted: 05 Mar 2014, 09:34 
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If you wish to collect and play, buy two blades and use the other one. Take care of them both.

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