OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Its here! LKT Ayous/Hinoki blade with Venus rubbers. I'm going to be sealing my blade with the spray Minwax, Quick Dry, Clear Poly Urethane and then gluing with rubber cement. I know there have been tons of tutorials on this but I'm going to use this thread to document my progress just in case I have questions or anyone sees something wrong, instead of it being a tutorial . Wish me luck.

-Max

Before you seal it, if you have not done it yet, sand any sharp edges near the handle. You could still do it after sealing but easier now. Use 220 or 320 grit.

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Shakehand, left handed.
Blade, Yinhe, W-1
Forhand, H-3 National
Backhand, Sriver FX Max

thanks Hookshot,

It actually looks like the edges have already been sanded, I'm going to the hardware store now to get the glue and urethane

As you probably have checked out the rubbers by now, you can see they are tacky if you pull the protector sheet back. They do not stay that way. Venus starts off tacky but in a short time, (30 min?) they become grippy. This is normal. As the tack leaves, they will get faster. That will be a great offensive setup. Still will have good control for blocking. I would clean with water unless you get hand oils on them. Then one drop of Dawn in a pint of water will fix that.

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Shakehand, left handed.
Blade, Yinhe, W-1
Forhand, H-3 National
Backhand, Sriver FX Max

Reminder, make sure it is "Rubber" cement, not "Contact" cement.

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Shakehand, left handed.
Blade, Yinhe, W-1
Forhand, H-3 National
Backhand, Sriver FX Max

Cool Thanks again Hooshot,

I got Elmers rubber cement and miniwax fast-drying polyu. Its late now so I'm just going going to take care of everything tommorrow. Stay tuned

Good Luck mate!

Hope the sealing goes well, how long you playing to dry it out before putting the rubbers on???


monkey

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the re-evolution of war
Bty Gergely Palio Macro Era 42.5 Max DHS H2 Max

If the coat of Minwax Poly Quick dry is not dripping wet heavy, it will be dry enough in 3 to 4 hours. This also depends somewhat on the weather but it is usually completely dry in that time. I have a way to put it over the Putr monitor and that speeds it up even more. Touch dry in 30 minutes. If you wipe a thin coat on, it is dry in two hours.

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Shakehand, left handed.
Blade, Yinhe, W-1
Forhand, H-3 National
Backhand, Sriver FX Max

Good one Max, I got nothing more to add than Hookshot as his advice is A1. Just take care on cutting your rubbers. I find its easier to gue one on and cut around the blade as a guide, rather than drawing around the blade and then cutting on the line, but this is personal preference I think. The only thing I find cutting with the rubber on is you can't slip and cut too much rubber.

Good luck.

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I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
Aussie Table Tennis Shop / Aussie Table Tennis Facebook Page / Equipment Review Index / Read my Reb Report Blog: click here.

I prefer to cut with the rubber on also. I use an Exacto with a #11 blade and make several passes.
I like scissors for OX pips.

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Shakehand, left handed.
Blade, Yinhe, W-1
Forhand, H-3 National
Backhand, Sriver FX Max

Venus? Ooh, do tell stories -- I personally find it a great rubber!

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Viscaria. H2 Neo 2.15. Tenergy 05 1.9.

Hey Hookshot...

Wondering, just how would you dry it? So assuming the both blade faces are sealed, then drying it would have to be, handle balanced upwards with the head up. I have heard some others drill a small hole and insert something like a screw but at one end is a hook, so they can hang it in the backyard clothes line. Also one of the older guys here also varnishes his blades, does the same with the hook/screw in the handle, but soaks it in the bucket of varnish, just up to the handle, for a couple of days before letting it to dry.


MM

_________________
the re-evolution of war
Bty Gergely Palio Macro Era 42.5 Max DHS H2 Max

Gees I would never recommend soaking in varnish or poly or anything. Light coating is plenty. I put the handle in my wooden vice so that the blade lies flat horizontally. That way you get no runs and it dries without the poly moving at all. If you hang vertically more chance of runs or at least a "nib" forming at the "run to" point.

_________________
I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
Aussie Table Tennis Shop / Aussie Table Tennis Facebook Page / Equipment Review Index / Read my Reb Report Blog: click here.

I think the main purpose, or at least what the guy tells me, is that the varnish gets into all the air pockets in the blade.

_________________
the re-evolution of war
Bty Gergely Palio Macro Era 42.5 Max DHS H2 Max

Hi Metal,
I have a stack of magazines over my computer desk. I spray the blade and stick the handle in the stack of magazines so the blade is FLAT. No drips, no runs, no errors. And the heat from the monitor dries it faster.

_________________
Shakehand, left handed.
Blade, Yinhe, W-1
Forhand, H-3 National
Backhand, Sriver FX Max