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PostPosted: 26 Sep 2013, 10:36 
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A hot topic here!

Do you go fast or slow?

Do you like to block short or long?

Do you want to take off as much pace as possible?

Do you want to push the other guy off the table?

questions like these have driven many of us on a quest for the perfect combo, so let's discuss the setup ups we have tried and what works and what doesnt, and what the problems were etc.

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PostPosted: 26 Sep 2013, 13:01 
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I have tried fast blades and I have tried slower blades and everything in between, but I have not tried them all. So that is why I refer to OOAK and read and reread posts, sometimes ancient, about the blades that work and about the kind of players that use them. i will try to keep the equipment general here as I dont want to seem like I'm crucifying one blade or promoting another but alas, I don't think that this will last:)

Anyways, with regard to equipment and the use of the equipment, I would like to point out, and I'm sure others have already posted this conclusion, is that the equipment has to not only fit the style but also the athletic/physical build of the player. For example what might feel flexiy for me might not feel flexy for someone else who is larger and stronger.

another point that I would like to mention is that the breaking affect of a fast blade can not be as great as the breaking effect of a slower blade, but I think many here have declared that fact already. Therefore I feel that for the case of a really passive pushblocker that the slowest blade should be chosen so that it can block short under the heaviest attack by a strong well built attacker. That's what my experimentation has shown. The only adavatge of using a faster blade is the lower trajectory and the attacking potential...

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PostPosted: 26 Sep 2013, 13:58 
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...just one more thing and I am hoping not to repeat stuff is that a faster blade may imply a harder outer layer so it will be better reversal wise but the point I was trying to make was it's still a case of different blades for different folks. If its too slow, it might go high. If its too fast it might go long etc. So there is an optimal blade for everyone and lots to choose from. The other thing about harder stiffer blades, like the balsa blades, is the directand sure feeling of controlling a ball to a specific point on the table. With slower blades there is flex and the flexiness gives a bit of unpredictableness when pushing...

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PostPosted: 26 Sep 2013, 14:09 
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timeout wrote:
A hot topic here!

Do you go fast or slow?

Do you like to block short or long?

Do you want to take off as much pace as possible?

Do you want to push the other guy off the table?

questions like these have driven many of us on a quest for the perfect combo, so let's discuss the setup ups we have tried and what works and what doesnt, and what the problems were etc.


I definitely went slow, blocking short (ideally half long or just short), took as much pace off as possible. I don't think I tried to push the other guy off the table. I guess if you are pushing/blocking short and slow, that's not really feasible.

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PostPosted: 27 Sep 2013, 16:38 
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Out of curiosity, what blade did you fancy for pushblocking, PK?

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PostPosted: 27 Sep 2013, 21:15 
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I tend to like the Re-impact blades, as they give the biggest difference in pace between short passive blocks and fast attacks. Of course you could do this with any blades if your touch is good, but I tend to lose too much control on the faster blades, and not enough attacking power on slower blades.
If you're after a cheaper option, a fairly stiff all-round blade should work well.

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PostPosted: 28 Sep 2013, 03:52 
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Blade: Hock No 74
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For me, the main considerations for the blade are 1) stiff/hard enough to create spin-reversal, 2) ability to take hard hits, 3) feel, 4) fast enough to attack on forehand. I have played with fast and slow blades. For me fast blades are more effective, EXCEPT I haven't found any that block hard hits well. So against good players I have better results with a slower blade than with a fast blade.

For the long pips, if you're going to play a less active wrist, you'll need a faster, disruptive LP. If you play with very active wrist, you can use a slower, high control LP.

For the forehand, both inverted or short pips work well. On some blades, the "spinginess" from tensor rubbers can effect the LP in a negative way, so I prefer a medium-fast, conventional forehand rubber.

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PostPosted: 29 Sep 2013, 01:42 
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Thanks to both of you, haggisv and MNNB.

Usually I jump right on it in with my noobish responses but wanted to give the thread some hangtime :D

Looking into another blade, probably the 2.5, but I'll check in on the Re-Impact line up. Anything good for a lazy pushblocker like myself...don't like using too much wrist, with me its just put it back and praying :lol:

Now here's something I always wanted to know, what do you like to use nowadaysMNNB? Thanks for clarifying up the equipment, in fact that post alone shoulbe a sticky for anyone considering this style.

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PostPosted: 02 Oct 2013, 17:47 
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Good topic here Timeout. As most would be aware (by my sig or other posts), I went for fast equipment. I have always had a power FH, so I want that weapon there to be as dangerous as it can be. As a result I have adapted my BH techniques to accomodate and I think in general it gives opponents more trouble anyway. Anyone who loops without a plan at me, is going down unless they are miles above me in level (but someone like that HAS a plan). A loop (or drive) to me is like handing me what I want, the faster the better usually, because the opponent is going to get it back with interest of speed, spin or both from a block or chop-block. That's the advantage of having fast equipment. Since going to dtecs this has amplified the trouble I deliver back. Pogo just was too predictable for the opponent and not nasty enough. Dtecs adds to the speed and unpredictability. But its not for the feint hearted. I am still refining my touch with it and always will be. But the stats are there in evidence of how big a jump its been to my game. Pogo = Sub 50% in A4 Seniors on Mondays and 30% in A2 Masters on Thursdays at my club. After 7 months, Dtechs now = 77% in A3 Seniors and 65% in A2 Masters.

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I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! :twisted: Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
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PostPosted: 02 Oct 2013, 18:22 
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Blade: Hock No 74
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Reb, I spent some time using fast blades and they worked well for most shots, but I had a real problem with blocking hard hits long. Lightest grip possible and pull back at impact didn't solve the problem. Stuck with it for nearly six months and lost to many players I had beaten with slower equipment.

Sounds like fast equipment works for you since loops are what you want. I'm usually trying to block as soft and short as possible to try to thwart people from looping at all.

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PostPosted: 02 Oct 2013, 21:43 
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Blade: Bty Gergely T5000
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BH: Tibhar Grass Dtecs
MNNB, I used to be somewhat like that and some loops will still catch me out and I get the wrong contact and whoops, away they go. However, I found that training my instincts to combine angle and contact pressure to be right for the ball coming at me, I usually get them back with a nasty deal happening for the opponent. At times, I can actually misjudge pressure and angle and leave the ball short of the net, especially if there is less on the ball than I thought.

The other advantage I find with fast equipment from the LP side is a fast push or roll on a lot of serves to good angles or deeply placed wide spots or really close to the body can often win a point outright due to the unexpectedness of it. Of course, this needs to be varied around or it loses the deception factor.

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I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! :twisted: Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
Aussie Table Tennis Shop / Aussie Table Tennis Facebook Page / Equipment Review Index / Read my Reb Report Blog: click here.


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PostPosted: 03 Oct 2013, 10:51 
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timeout wrote:
Out of curiosity, what blade did you fancy for pushblocking, PK?


I used the re-impact Tachi back in the day when I was trying out pushblocking.
Speaking of which, I just ordered grass dtecs ox and am going to reactivate my Tachi again.

I will therefore have one chopping combo (victas koji) and one push/block/hitting combo (Tachi).

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PostPosted: 04 Oct 2013, 03:02 
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Blade: Bty Gergely T5000
FH: TSP Regalis Blue Max
BH: Tibhar Grass Dtecs
Haha, I have it on good authority PK, that you have tried just about everything there is, from a spy in your midst (and its not JC)! ;) :lol:

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I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! :twisted: Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
Aussie Table Tennis Shop / Aussie Table Tennis Facebook Page / Equipment Review Index / Read my Reb Report Blog: click here.


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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2013, 02:32 
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Blade: Dr. Neubauer Firewall +
FH: DHS G888 1.8mm
BH: Dragon Talon NT OX
I've always used OFF- to ALL+ speed blades.. Right now, the Firewall Plus blade is ALL+.. The nice thing about balsa is that it's slow when used passively but fast when used actively.. Just perfect for blocking and pushing. My inverted rubber has very hard 1.5 mm sponge which is great for going for flat kill shots and it's tackyness helps to inject spin into the rally and also to make direct service points..
The pips need to be very soft, very wide spaced, very long and as low friction as possible.. Some major use, including outdoor use, helps to break in the rubbers to play properly.

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PostPosted: 24 Oct 2013, 07:45 
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_hHakYo3BpY

Zhou Xintong, blade Nittaku Runlox 5,
fh: Dawei 388D-1 OX
bh: Spectol ( probably 1,9..2,0 mm)

beautiful


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