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PostPosted: 16 Jan 2014, 23:32 
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This might be more of a strategy question......

I regularly play a guy who is a much better player than I am.....

I'm grateful for the opportunity to play him because he exposes my deficiencies (the 100 or so that I have) and it gives me something to think about and work on.........

I've realized that I chop fairly close to the table....maybe 3-4-5 ft back. That's where I seem most comfortable. Or let's just say I'm more comfortable closer than waaaaaaay back. I use OX.

After I chop....he's very good at backing me up by using very spinny....slow...fairly high arcing shots.

What's a good way to handle these? Or break the pattern?


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PostPosted: 17 Jan 2014, 02:36 
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Chop it on to get the ball back on the table. Don't try to do too much. If in position move to the forehand close the blade a lot and loop it back. Experiment with how hard you can loop it and still get it on the table. If the guy keeps doing it that means every time you play you get an opportunity to develop an attack against it. Eventually you will land more and he will become more weary of playing that shot. Plus you will develop offense when they draw you back in with the high arc loop. At that point he will push more to pull you into the table leaving you opportunity to flick, sidespin, pushblock or hit with the long pip. Also once he pushes more chops it will allow you yet another opportunity to develop a strong loop vs push or chop. In a year or two thank this man for developing your game further.

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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2014, 07:11 
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treetop wrote:
This might be more of a strategy question......


After I chop....he's very good at backing me up by using very spinny....slow...fairly high arcing shots.

What's a good way to handle these? Or break the pattern?


I thought this would be a good thing? We want people either to push or give a safe high arcing shot over the net that gives a chopper a chance to attack.
I would try and put it away . Just make sure you err on going long and not going into the net. Try to flat hit drive/smash or top spin drive . You have to make opponent pay .
I just push or chop this slow spinny arcing shot it if it goes my backhand. Usually though, since it's slow, I try and get around it and put it away with a forehand drive/smash if it's close to left center to center. If I am not sure or feel I'm to late to get around it. I push with backhand and wait again for the same shot closer to forehand side and right height.

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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2014, 08:47 
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LDMovies wrote:
I thought this would be a good thing? We want people either to push or give a safe high arcing shot over the net that gives a chopper a chance to attack.
I would try and put it away . Just make sure you err on going long and not going into the net. Try to flat hit drive/smash or top spin drive . You have to make opponent pay .
I just push or chop this slow spinny arcing shot it if it goes my backhand. Usually though, since it's slow, I try and get around it and put it away with a forehand drive/smash if it's close to left center to center. If I am not sure or feel I'm to late to get around it. I push with backhand and wait again for the same shot closer to forehand side and right height.


I would do the same offensive move as suggested above. But if you want to chop these slow spinny loops back, make sure you let the ball sink enough and chop with a powerful more or less forward motion. Your opponent will get a heavy backspin ball back.

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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2014, 16:18 
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As Sammy alluded to, if its at all possible get onto the FH and punish the ball. I don't loop these personally, I smash them off the bounce. But it all comes down to preference and game style/abilities, etc. If he sends them to the wide BH all the time and there's no chance of getting onto the FH and you don't like twiddling inverted to BH (which is a much harder shot for me personally), you have a few options. If you want to chop, then move back and chop low to where he is weakest. You can block them off the bounce and take away his time and potentially lead the rally to your advantage. Or you can attack the ball with the pips, which will require you to drag the ball down with the pips...requiring the development of a stroke that will land it on the table. The last option is probably the hardest and will take most time to develop and go through trial and error with. It can be very rewarding though, although its very hard to get really consistent with. If chopping is your game and you don't want to try these other things, then you need to progress your chopping to a point that the spin you put on the ball, and your placement of it, draws more errors than they can draw from you. There is no easy answer to all of this btw.

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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2014, 17:31 
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I would say chop earlier at highest point and try to chop a little downwards. Then you put him under preassure, forcing him away from the table and you can get closer. Then smash with FH or bloch with inverted on BH.

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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2014, 20:09 
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When you don't want / can't attack the high arcing topspin then you should let the ball drop down until you feel comfortable with it.
Usually you have a comfort zone where you play chops safe and flat (it is around height of the hip for most players). Try to find the right position to this ball that you can play in the right height for you.
I would not recommend you to change the height where you chop the ball because it is way more difficult to chop a ball downwards safe.

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PostPosted: 09 Oct 2014, 02:35 
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Stepping around and hitting a good spinny loop is easier said than done especially with inverted.Some points:

1) almost all world class choppers use some sponge-this adds dwell time for spin manipulation
2) Not all long pips rubbers are good chopping rubbers-there is a reason why Curl and Feint dominate at the world levels
3) At 3 feet away its going to be hard to execute a rip chop and keep it on the table-you might have to move back some
4) Close your paddle and pull through hard
5) If he if lifting heavy chop lighten it up and let him pull it off the table.

Ian

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PostPosted: 09 Oct 2014, 11:17 
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Let it drop/spin burn off somewhat; then side chop so the ball drives into his elbow off the bounce.

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PostPosted: 28 Aug 2015, 12:28 
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you feel confortable chop fairly close to the table because y use OX lp if you want evolve you need change 1mm sponge lp, because ox very predictable, y cant vary the spin with it, and you chops not have enough speed so the opponent have lot of time.
so you opponent always receive from you the almost same spin, slow big curved half high chop.

ez katka deal with it.


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