OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Hello all. I placed this in the chopping forum because this is more of a question for those who chop and not really a push blocking style question. Moderators, if you feel this is in the wrong section feel free to move.

I primarily defend by chopping with grippy LPs like P-1R, Feint Long III, P-4. My style is in flux. I was using giant dragon ox, but didn't enjoy the style of table tennis that was causing me to play, more passive blocking, less chopping. I was push blocking way more than chopping…tried to keep it all-around, but just didn’t work.

So, going back to a more modern defensive style, I find that my chopping has gotten better… something about going back to OX that has made going to sponge very easy…it way more controllable and linear now. My chops are way more consistent.

So, from all EJ moments last year, I have all 3 of the above rubbers on a DefPlay Senso. P-1R 0.5mm, P-4 0.5mm, FL3 1.0mm. I have hit with all of them and they all are different, but I play pretty well with all of them.

However, this is not really an equipment question, but more of a technique question.

I can chop on both wings, and on the forehand loop and block well. The deficiency is in blocking on the BH side with the pips (when I’m in shakehand and not WWGrip). With P4 and FL3, the block is easier as it’s almost an inverted or grippy SP block, kinda flat or closed blade if there is a lot of topspin. But with the P-1R…I can’t figure out how to make that shot. I seem to give back a bunch of juicy meatballs ripe for smashing.

Also, with all 3 of the rubbers I struggle with fast shots to my lower body, where it’s awkward to chop or block. This only really happens when I’m too close to the table after an attack or a close aggressive block or push. It’s not always possible to back up fast enough to get time to move my body position to the side and chop or loop.
For this shot, I have the most problem with this on the P-1R… I tend to get more of those balls back with slight topsin using the FL3 and P4. But they are always weak and inconsistent.

Any technique help in this regard is much-appreciated.

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Blog: "Holy Chtchet!" ⇝

Projects: Player Equipment Grid ⇝ Comprehensive Thin Inverted Chopping Rubbers Grid ⇝ Please send me corrections or new submissions

It is a hard shot to do with LP. I agree P1-r should be hardest.

Have you been able to develop a chop block? That is what I would suggest (google or search on you-tube for techniques). I was NOT able to develop a chop block w LP.

Yes I agree with vanjr. If you can just add a little downward movement to your block (making it a 'chop block'), you'll get a lot more control and it will take a lot more pace off the ball. It also provides a ton more of backspin.

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Thanks guys...I just re-read my post and I kind of need to clarify.

So, when the shot is wide to my backhand, I can indeed chop-block. Using P-1r, my chop block is great, very spinny, given time. However, there are times when you do not have time to stroke a chop-block, and thus need an emergency block. It's always going to be less than optimal, but far worse with the p-1r than the other 2 rubbers mentioned, or my beloved Talon, great for passive blocks.

To clarify, the 2nd question was regarding shots sent to my middle-lower body (I didn't say that above)...near the belly button or groin. Currently for that, I kinda chop, push, those shots, and they are always weak.

_________________
Blog: "Holy Chtchet!" ⇝

Projects: Player Equipment Grid ⇝ Comprehensive Thin Inverted Chopping Rubbers Grid ⇝ Please send me corrections or new submissions

Both problems can be solved by doing a passive stroke with the correct angle. Yourn angle needs to be more closed compared to Talon, but more open compared to P4/Feint III. Finding the correct angle is a matter of trying and experience. The ball will not be loaded, however.

You can also do a very strong chop block in the second situation you mention. The ball will be hgher, but will be loaded with backspin. Make sure that shot is deep enough.

Blocking with grippy LP's (sponge or OX) isn't so hard. As Lorre says, it's a matter of experience and right angle. After a while you just 'feel' how to hold your blade. You have a choice of either doing a passive block when you take the ball quickly after the bounce or you can lift the ball forward a little when you take the ball later. For me a chop block is harder to perform and I would prefer chopping. P4 & FLIII (both more spin sensitive, more like inverted) are quite different from P1r where indeed your angle can be more open

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Thanks everyone for your responses. I just wanted to provide feedback to everyone's advice.

I have practiced with the robot and multiball to achieve the best angle and technique for the p1r.

I have always had a very good chop block, but put more time in to this as well vs. fast shots. Slow spinny loops are always easy for me to chop block. It's the faster flatter ones that give me trouble...so put some time in here. This has certainly helped as I am less compelled to use the passive block with closed angle technique on faster balls, since I now have broadened what I consider to be a "Faster Ball."

Of course, there are still always balls that are going to be too fast to chop block, or if one is out of position, not close enough. So I put time in to the passive block as well, to figure out the best angle and technique. Once I figured that out, I had my partner multi-ball slow loops to my forehand, and then a surpise fast shot near my elbow or out wide to mimic the surprise factor. This has helped tremendously and recommend this drill for any chopper out there. (Also helped my terrible forehand chop )

_________________
Blog: "Holy Chtchet!" ⇝

Projects: Player Equipment Grid ⇝ Comprehensive Thin Inverted Chopping Rubbers Grid ⇝ Please send me corrections or new submissions

Let us know how that works into match play after you have some time to integrate it.