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PostPosted: 13 Jun 2018, 18:27 
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Blade: DHS Hurricane Long 5
FH: Nittaku Hurricane Pro 3
BH: Researching
Hello Everyone,

So about me: I’m a new member here. Returned to the sport after a 16-year break and have been playing 1 – 2 hrs per day, 7 days a week for the past 5 months. Started playing when I was 5 to when I was 18 and won a fair number of tournaments back then.

My style:
I’m 6 feet tall, play very close to the table and though I do crouch and rotate my hips, my footwork isn’t that great. (Working on it now though). I’m a right hander and position myself a bit more centrally at the table rather than being too much to the left.

FH: I open with heavy brushed loops (Chinese style with a straight arm, accelerating harder before ball contact) but don’t enjoy counter-looping (though due to most of the younger provincial players I play with today I must move back and play them to an extent), instead further to the opening I like hitting fast through topsin/loop/drive returns I receive. Play a fair amount of pushes too but try to keep the ball as tight as possible to the net with enough backspin (I give a lot of importance to loading those pushes with backspin) when I can.

BH: Tend to Flick a LOT, smash any backspin ball that might sit up a bit high with a fair amount of accuracy and also push while trying to impart backspin. Never execute backhand topsins.

Serves: Not the best out there mainly because I rarely keep them compact and spinny near the net, but when I do, they come off pretty well. (Working on that too).

Equipment I love and am looking for:
• There needs to be a LOT of vibration. :D
• Fairly quick and light setup with decent amount of spin.
• I like Anatomic Handles but then anything is fine as long as its comfortable.

Ever since I returned, the amount of equipment on offer today is crazy and what with the internet to keep browsing through them, I’ve turned into a bit of an EJ. My set up over the past 5 months go like this:

1. Yasaka Extra Offensive (AN Handle) with Tibhar Aurus and Tibhar 5Q both in max thickness. (Suggested by a coach, didn’t like it – Barely any vibration).
2. Nittaku Barwell Fleet (FL Handle) with Rakza 7 and Rakza 7 soft both in 1.8mm (Thought I needed something faster – No vibration)
3. Nittaku Barwell Fleet with Tenergy 05 in max (started longing for something tacky on FH so ditched this setup too – Zero Vibration)
4. Nittaku Barwell Fleet with Hurricane 8 max boosted and Shining Dragon max red for BH (SD was crap)
5. Xiom Zetro Quad (FL Handle) with Nittaku Hurricane 3 Pro Turbo in max black with Rising Dragon max red for BH (Finally something I liked but very heavy setup and still no vibration)
6. EJ in me kicked in so bought another Zetro Quad with NHP3TO max black and this time Morristo SP max red for BH (Setup was light but playing with SP has huge advantages and disadvantages, BH pushes were quickly put away by opponents – And no vibration)
7. Finally got my older Rakza 7 soft, black 1.8 mm for my BH after boosting it (Rubber had shrunk so…) and Rising Dragon max red for FH onto the Yasaka Extra offensive 7.
The first few balls I hit with this setup, the racket vibrated if only so much. I could feel the ball and it catapulted my game. (Set up is heavy though with all that boosting and the rakza’s sponge is a bit pockmarked coz of the way I removed the glue the first time around.)

8. Going by the final logic… I’m considering a Tibhar Samsonov Force Pro (AN Handle) with an Andro R42 red 2mm for BH (Heard its fairly light), and either Andro R47 or NHP3TO (Boosted) on FH. Reason is… I’ve heard the Force Pro is Quick, not that stiff so will have sufficient flex/vibration, R42 is light with sufficient speed and spin plus the softer sponge will allow the blade’s inner characteristics and speed to shine through, R47/NHP3TO to get a balance of Speed, Spin and Kick.
Looked really hard at the Hurricane Long 5 and I’m pretty interested but maybe due to lack of knowledge I have, the fact that there is Arylate Carbon tells me the vibrations will be heavily dampened and I’ll go down the Barwell Fleet way again.
Thought of the Liu Shiwen ZLF but TT11 doesn’t stock it and buying through Megaspin will cost me 335$ and with the rest of the stup I’ll break the 400$ mark so that’s not something I’d go for now.

I do realize there is absolutely no substitute for training and practice and changing equipment too often will hamper your play. But I’m just playing for the love of the game and some physical activity. Not really going to be going to tournaments etc. So, a bit more of EJ’ing until I’ve found a setup I really like won’t really affect me.

Plus, I’m considering opening a free of cost training centre for underprivileged children here a little later so none of what I accumulate will go waste anyway, or if I’m not able to I’ll donate to a similar institute I know.

So then… If what I’m saying makes any sense at all, can I have some recommendations for equipment and your thoughts on point number 8? :D

Thanks

Rashed


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PostPosted: 13 Jun 2018, 22:09 
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Blade: DHS Long 5
FH: DHS H3 Neo prov blue spon
BH: Rasanter R 42
Hi Rashed,

Welcome 2 the forum, nice long introduction.

Just a short answer. ;)

Iam EJ all my life and played also with the Barewell Fleet.

I can tell u that the Long 5 is a great blade and I like it better than the Barewell Fleet because of the more flex and speed.
After trying a lot of rubbers I played with the rasanter R42 (BH)now for the last year(its light). I have lots of control and even pushing or chopping are great. Like the grip of the rubber. I've ordered a XIOM omega VII Europe (also light) to maybe replace the Rasanter (EJ). I play with H3 (neo) provincial blue sponge on the forehand. Chinese rubber with this blade is a great combination. Much better than on the barewell fleet. Next blade will be another Long 5 if I find a light one (85g).

Played also with Rakza 7 but with the new balls I missed a bit of grip/speed which I got with the Rasanter.

Greetings!


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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2018, 01:51 
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AsylumKing wrote:
1. Yasaka Extra Offensive (AN Handle) with Tibhar Aurus and Tibhar 5Q both in max thickness. (Suggested by a coach, didn’t like it – Barely any vibration).
2. Nittaku Barwell Fleet (FL Handle) with Rakza 7 and Rakza 7 soft both in 1.8mm (Thought I needed something faster – No vibration)
3. Nittaku Barwell Fleet with Tenergy 05 in max (started longing for something tacky on FH so ditched this setup too – Zero Vibration)
4. Nittaku Barwell Fleet with Hurricane 8 max boosted and Shining Dragon max red for BH (SD was crap)
5. Xiom Zetro Quad (FL Handle) with Nittaku Hurricane 3 Pro Turbo in max black with Rising Dragon max red for BH (Finally something I liked but very heavy setup and still no vibration)
6. EJ in me kicked in so bought another Zetro Quad with NHP3TO max black and this time Morristo SP max red for BH (Setup was light but playing with SP has huge advantages and disadvantages, BH pushes were quickly put away by opponents – And no vibration)


Small fortune tied up in those blades... :lol:


AsylumKing wrote:
Equipment I love and am looking for:
• There needs to be a LOT of vibration. :D
• Fairly quick and light setup with decent amount of spin.
• I like Anatomic Handles but then anything is fine as long as its comfortable.


Um, try one of these. Lightweight, check. Vibration, check. Handle isn't anatomic, but you can fix that with grip tape. And it'll cost you next to nothing in comparison, including shipping.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-sel ... 22548.html

(Wow.. price went up a whole dollar compared to a couple months ago...)

:lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2018, 03:52 
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Blade: DHS Hurricane Long 5
FH: Nittaku Hurricane Pro 3
BH: Researching
Thank you so much iskandar :up:
Prior to joining this forum, had been pouring over it the last couple of months and so know quite a few topics you've posted on :up:
Went ahead and ordered the Hurricane Long 5 from TT11. Went in for free racket assembly too. Thought I'd scrounge somewhere :D Though I do love assembling my own rackets, and over the past few months have become a bit decent at it though not like factory/pre-made cuts. I use a scalpel. Top sheet is usually neat and rounded but sponge isn't really smooth. Wonder how the pros and my coach get such a neat cut.
For rubbers I got the R42 black 2.0mm and then a small mess up I think... I got an R37 red 2.0mm. I say mess up because if I don't like the R37 I have a NHP3TO currently on boost with Falco long, rubber used for about 5-7 hours so it's fairly new... And... It's a black max ;(
Thanks a ton for pointing the way to that M8, will try it out. Any topic related to it here on this forum?
Also just one more thing.. Will be confirming an order for a tt table here. Names given to me were a Stag DX 1000 and some Joola pro table both having 25mm top plies with double coatings of Dupont PU. Not too inclined because of the costs though so was wondering what's the difference between a local 19mm top ply and a branded 25mm? It's for home use with a robot and in no pro so it's there any real difference in speed/spin off feel?


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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2018, 10:52 
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Blade: Nittaku Acoustic
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BH: Donic Bluefire JP03
AsylumKing wrote:
I use a scalpel. Top sheet is usually neat and rounded but sponge isn't really smooth. Wonder how the pros and my coach get such a neat cut.


Use a box cutter / utility knife with a snap off blade rather than a scalpel. Freshen the blade every 5-10 or so
And if it’s tearing, out a touch of oil on the blade

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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2018, 11:26 
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Blade: XVT Balsa Carbon 10mm all
FH: Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0
BH: Globe 979 OX
A lot of info here in one place. Read the intro then make your decision, well worth 5-10 minutes of your time.

Link .... North Little Rock Table Tennis Group timeline page on Facebook

https://m.facebook.com/NorthLittleRockT ... =bookmarks

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Panda Drive / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max / Play right-handed
XVT balsa carbon 10mm / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Globe 979 Long Pips OX / Play Left-handed shakehand
Stiga Def Wood / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH GD CC LP OX .. Play Left-handed
Cpen SOS Wood / 4H 729 802-40 2.0 / BH GD Talon use righthanded shakehand grip
HARDBAT / Shakehand Hock 3 ply / Friendship Dr Evil OX .. Play Right-handed


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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2018, 12:46 
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I've come across various knife-sharpening videos on YouTube.. I'm wondering if doing some of those things to the tip of a box cuter wouldn't make cuts smoother. Some rubbers are easy to cut smooth, some others, though.. the sponge will crumble at the slightest provocation. Use one of those green self-healing cutting mats under the rubber... helps a lot to preserve the tip of the blade, and preserves your dining table as well.. :lol: I suppose so would a dozen sheets of newspaper but that's messy.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2018, 12:54 
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The angle of the blade also affects tearing or crumbling too

But I have never had issues with tearing or crumbling with a slightly oiled blade - if the blade is dry and doesn’t have any machine oil on it it’s much more likely

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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2018, 17:34 
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Blade: DHS Hurricane Long 5
FH: Nittaku Hurricane Pro 3
BH: Researching
iskandar taib wrote:
I've come across various knife-sharpening videos on YouTube.. I'm wondering if doing some of those things to the tip of a box cuter wouldn't make cuts smoother. Some rubbers are easy to cut smooth, some others, though.. the sponge will crumble at the slightest provocation. Use one of those green self-healing cutting mats under the rubber... helps a lot to preserve the tip of the blade, and preserves your dining table as well.. :lol: I suppose so would a dozen sheets of newspaper but that's messy.

I use the green colored self healing mat and it sure does help preserve the blade. But another thing I learnt is to keep a newspaper/A4 print paper above that mat as sometimes the rubber when being directly pushed onto that mat is left with scratches. Found softer esn sponges to crumble pretty easily, the harder Chinese sponges on the other hand are much easier to get a neat cut out of.

Silver wrote:
Use a box cutter / utility knife with a snap off blade rather than a scalpel. Freshen the blade every 5-10 or so
And if it’s tearing, out a touch of oil on the blade

Have used concentrated dish washer liquid and that does give pretty neat cuts, but I wasn't careful on a couple of occasions and if you don't dab out the extra liquid from the cutter, it weakens the glue holding the rubber to the blade and the edges don't hold firm/peel off. Have never used oil, will try. I gently score the sponge several times with the tip of the blade until I get to the rubber and then use the entire cutting edge of the scalpel to cut through the rubber in one go.


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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2018, 19:38 
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mmmm I wouldn't use dishwashing liquid because it would interfere with the glue as you mention. Oil is a better option imo. But then, I wouldn't drench the rubber in it (unless I was trying to olive oil tune or something). Just put a dob on the blade, then wipe it off lightly.

Why I'd choose a box cutter over the scalpel is because (a) it's easier/more economical to get a fresh edge each time you want to cut a rubber even, (b) handles are much bigger, so easier to wield/distribute force than a small, thin scalpel handle and (c) replacement blades, even cheap ones, come drenched in machine oil so they don't rust while on the shop shelf. I think I've only actually oiled a blade twice - all other times I've snapped the end of for a new edge, and the blade still had oil on it.

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PostPosted: 14 Jun 2018, 19:45 
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Blade: DHS Hurricane Long 5
FH: Nittaku Hurricane Pro 3
BH: Researching
Thanks Silver. Will give the box cutter and oil a try the next time then.
Btw, just finished ordering a Joola World Cup S 25 TT table. This isn't the one with a 22mm ply, it's a 25mm top ply. Person getting it for me has placed an order for 5 tables so is passing on the discount to me so was worth the bargain.


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PostPosted: 15 Jun 2018, 01:51 
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Oh yeah, very important. Make several shallow cuts rather than try to cut through the entire thickness of sponge in one go. The crumblier the sponge, the shallower the cuts should be. As for boxcutter vs. scalpel, scalpel blades are quite thin, I don't think they'll easily follow the exact curve unless you use VERY light pressure and make many, many passes. Same goes for X-Acto knives. The larger size box cutters have pretty stiff blades.

I'll have to try the oil trick or the soap trick... Maybe booster might do the trick without causing adhesion problems.... :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 15 Jun 2018, 07:30 
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X-acto blades are closer to box cutter /utility style blades in terms of thickness aren’t they?
And probably need to check we are actually using scalpel scalpels, not an x-acto. I occasionally get the feeling that when people say scalpel they actually mean xacto/craft knife.
I tried them once, but didn’t like the angle of the cutting edge.

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PostPosted: 15 Jun 2018, 08:34 
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Might have to try the oil suggestion. I dip the box cutter blade in a glass of water a couple of times while cutting. Cuts better than a dry blade.


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PostPosted: 15 Jun 2018, 11:31 
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Dusty054 wrote:
Quote:
Might have to try the oil suggestion. I dip the box cutter blade in a glass of water a couple of times while cutting. Cuts better than a dry blade.


Is that only when it's a little dusty? :)

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