OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Anyone has any recommendation on which rubber would be a good fit for this blade. Some info regarding how I play:

1) 2 wing looper (Euro style)
2) Do not reglue
3) Usually smash to put away the point (both FH and BH)
4) Above average serve for the level I play at.

I tried putting H3 on it and I am really struggling with it. I used to play with a Bty VSG 4000 (OFF-) blade and have used Bryce, Bryce FX and H2 and can easily adapt to them but this new blade is kinda hard to play with using the H3.

Thanks in advance.

With the Schlaeger I would have to put really soft rubbers on it just to control it, or you could get some high control topsheet like Globe 999's and put them on a soft sponge. I know you don't glue as in daily, but would you consider super priming? This makes those high control Chinese rubbers much more playable I think.

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Photino
My rubbers are 9 years old. They won’t be there long.

Untill two weeks ago, I used REAL fast setups, blade and rubber. Got mad at the ever increasing cost of Euro rubber. Now I have a fast blade, W-1 carbon and H3. The H3 feels s l o w and the control is Super. I even put EEII on one H3 setup and it still feels slow. I am going to stick with it though as Everything is just going on the table.
What kind of trouble did you have with the H3? Even with the SC I can't picture it being too fast or not enough control. I was afraid changing my setup so drastically would give me trouble but I still use the same strokes and consistancy has gone way up. I think I might have EJed myself out of my control level and H3 has brought me back to a realistic level.

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Shakehand, left handed.
Blade, Yinhe, W-1
Forhand, H-3 National
Backhand, Sriver FX Max

After scouring the forums it seems like both the paddle and the rubber is rated as "hard". To me that combination seems very inconsistent and very unforgiving timing wise. Plus for whatever reason, I could not generate as much spin and penetration when looping and that results in me trying harder and harder. Maybe it's the Chinese vs Euro looping technique that others have mentioned here.

The only time it felt right is if I reglue (regular glue) it right before playing. I like the speed but the inconsistency is driving me crazy. It could be me so therefore I'm not saying anything intrinsically bad about the combo. Maybe I should break down the sponge with some speed glue and then try it again.

H3 sheet is new ? Maybe you need some time to play to soften up a little or try to speed glue for that.
I have Samsonov Carbon+Globe 999 National a hard combo also. Try to hit a little hard to use more the sponge than the topsheet , so you will have more control if you will grab the ball with the sponge. Don't just brush the ball. The spin will be greater also. Take care about the follow-through , follow through more ... Focus on generating spin , don't alter the movements putting too much power ...

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Xiom Strato , St
FH: DHS H3 prov, max
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 05FX, max

unless you have tried an SC you won't know how good or bad it is.
I sincerly think that people that try it and say it's out of control and no good for looping used the same rubbers as they used to use for a slower blade.
If you use soft rubbers and glue it's a great blade but without glue and a soft sponge it's VERY hard to control

The part about hitting hard I agree completely. When I go all out for a loop drive that's when I feel in control and the speed and spin is so much better than my previous paddle. It's during the short rallies, flipping (after being glued for a while) and control looping that I am having troubles with.

That's the correct form with H3

use a thinner sponge than what your using and the control will be much better

I agree with the short balls problems . There you have to adjust and to rely more on the rubber's tackiness (the sponge is almost untouched there) and timing. Even with a slower blade you could have problems if the timing is incorrect - using tacky rubbers you are more sensitive to the incomming spin.

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Xiom Strato , St
FH: DHS H3 prov, max
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 05FX, max

Stick bryce on your schlager carbon.

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Chasse Patate

I have a similar setup so I can relate.

The schlager is only a hair faster than the Sardius but the biggest difference is the top layer. The schlager uses some North American cypress which stiffens the whole thing up.

The absolute WORSE thing you can do is put soft rubbers on it. That would really hurt the control factor. On a blade that hard and crisp, you need hard rubbers that can maintain that feeling. If you put H3 on the Schlager, I find it very contradictory and hard to use.

Blade has low throw while the H3 is high, blade is fast and rubber is slow.
Also extremely heavy. What I find is that by using Chinese rubbers on such a fast blade you pretty much negate all the special properties.

If your use to bryce, Bryce FX and H2. That means your a low throw junky . Stick with those rubbers, preferably the Bryce.

I did a comparison on my sardius 2 weeks back, I had Bryce FX on one side and Bryce Hard on the other, the FX was a hell of a lot harder to control as the ball springs off all over the place. The Bryce hard speed was very linear. You hit slow, it goes slow. You hit hard the ball dissapears.

LawOCG

your recomending Bryce on an SC unglued
was that post serious?

Hi LawOCG,
I am glad somebody else sees things differently. I don't know how the W-1 compares to the SC but with H3 on there, it felt like a training bat the first time I tried it. People keep saying that H3 is fast but to me it is slow. I had Energy on the W-1 before I put H3 on and can tell you it is NOT a slow blade. One difference is my setup is light with OX on one side.
I can brush loop or loop drive with it. The control is better than any setup I have used in 3 years. Pushing and blocking, same thing. Easy.
I have been using fast rubbers like Energy, Nano Cannon, etc. I just can't imagine a blade fast enough to make H3 feel anything like those.
I am going to stick with H3 and give it a fair shake including a tourney in October. Then I will know if it is as good as it seems to me right now.
My partner commented on the great spin. When I loaded a brush loop, he usually went long. We play so much, we can see any difference in each others games.
I also am able to block hard loops shorter than I ever have. The short game is mush eaiser now.
Years ago, I started out trying most of the Zeropong tacky rubbers. I never could get the hang of them. I was afraid the H3 would be the same but it is not. Now it has me wondering if my game has changed that much. Guess I will have to dig out an old sheet and see.
LawOCG, give me your opinion on the speed of H3 compared to some Euro types please. I consider it at least 30% slower on any given blade. It also makes me think the control factor is inversely proportional to speed.

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Shakehand, left handed.
Blade, Yinhe, W-1
Forhand, H-3 National
Backhand, Sriver FX Max

I'm afraid so

With his SC any soft rubbers on it would instantly kill the control. The ball would catapult off all over the place. The Bryce will kill this problem with the harder sponge but in return it requires "Total" stroke commitment. The slightest hesitation and you won't get the shot you want.