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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2014, 20:16 
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Hair dryers really just speed it up. If we have a warm and dry day, the glue dries within mins, if we have a cool and humid day, I use a fan or it can take 10+ mins.
I prefer the thinner glues, as the thicker ones easily 'ball up' once you start spreading it. A lot of glues do this, even some of the more expensive ones. Of course it may work better in some climates compared to others.

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PostPosted: 14 Apr 2014, 12:08 
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I do my gluing in an airconditioned room, which probably helps. Outside the humidity is high, so it would take longer to dry.

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PostPosted: 18 Aug 2014, 16:16 
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any idea the Donic Blue Contact glue?

and where can buy it?


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PostPosted: 15 Sep 2016, 18:18 
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Sorry guys, after reading throu 4 pages of glues, I am glue-stucked now!

What is domed rubber?
Can someone helped by simply stating which glue, does a reasonable job and can be removed easily and cleanly?


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PostPosted: 15 Sep 2016, 19:03 
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Back in the days of speed glue, you'd apply the (VOC-laden, stinky) glue in a thick layer, and you'd wait about 10-15 minutes for most of the solvents to evaporate and for the sponge to expand. Since the sponge is now bigger than the topsheet the rubber will curl towards the topsheet side, with the sponge bulging up (the rubber being face down, of course). This is "dome". Speed glue is, of course, now banned, but oil-based boosters do the same thing, they cause the sponge to expand and causes the rubber to develop a dome. If you wait long enough, the dome will subside, since the topsheet will also have expanded.

Now, if you buy a sheet of Palio CJ8000, chances are you'll see the opposite. The sponge is SMALLER than the topsheet, so the rubber bows towards the sponge. This is "dish".

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PostPosted: 16 Sep 2016, 07:02 
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Thanks Iskandar. That what I thought it is but I wasn't sure since speed glues are now banned and therefore why are we still talking about domed rubbers. Apparently rubbers are still legally domed via other stuffs.


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PostPosted: 16 Sep 2016, 20:29 
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Rubbers are sometimes domed directly from the factory, probably because there was some sort of tension or heating involved is the manufacturing process. They can be a pain to glue down, especially when the sheet is rigid.

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PostPosted: 17 Sep 2016, 02:39 
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In most of those cases, it's bowing towards the sponge (i.e. the sponge has shrunken since it was attached to the topsheet), so it's the opposite of what we called "dome" back in the day. I call it "dish". Every single sheet of CJ8000 and Yasaka ZAP I've had had it. Major pain in the neck, I don't think forcing it onto a flat blade in this condition is good - you're compressing the topsheet, for one, the opposite of what you had with speed glue (where you'd be stretching the topsheet).

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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2016, 12:50 
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Quote:
I don't think forcing it onto a flat blade in this condition is good


What do you suggest doing with a rubber that's dished like this? throw it away? Expand the sponge? I have a couple sheets like that that i'd still like to use.

Also, I am curious about glues and glueing methods that allow easy removal of glue from the SPONGE. I have used rubber cement, tearmender, and most recently donic vario clean, and none of these are easy at all to get off the rubber: they all take a concerted effort of rubbing with a scrap piece of rubber, often ending up with little bits of sponge taken with it. Doesn't seem like it's good to keep building up more layers of glue on the sponge every time you reglue, so I'm curious what other are doing.


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PostPosted: 21 Sep 2016, 19:00 
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On extreme cases I had to boost the rubber to get it on the blade. In one case I ended up with a CREASE in the topsheet when I tried it unboosted.

These days I just avoid brands that I know have the problem (mainly Palio).

As far as removing dried glue from sponge - it didn't seem to be a problem with the DingJi water-based cement I was using, but with Elmer's Rubber Cement, this does seem to be more of a problem. Not that I do it any more, I just keep adding more layers of glue if I need to re-glue a sheet.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2017, 06:04 
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Technique that works well for one WBG may not work well for another. So I got a pretty crappy glue job with Stiga Attach because it is quite thick and also dried a lot more rapidly than I was expecting. If I use it again, I would do it differently and probably get a good results, but since I know how to always get a good result with Butterfly Free Chack II, that is what I use.

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Last edited by Baal on 04 Mar 2017, 06:08, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 04 Mar 2017, 06:05 
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bennycyg wrote:
any idea the Donic Blue Contact glue?

and where can buy it?


Any vendor, but if you use that stuff, seal the heck out of your blade because nothing attaches more firmly. It will shred an unsealed blade to bits. I am one who does not believe in blade sealing much, but Blue Contact is truly a special case. I can't recommend it.

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PostPosted: 29 Jan 2020, 06:55 
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The rubber ones are easy to remove and the water ones always have problems not to damage the sponge. That's why I only use rubber adhesives, never water because they are too strong.


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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2020, 06:48 
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Try Revolution No 3 very simple to remove and use.

I don't think there's a better glue on the market now. Image
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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2020, 10:48 
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Better? I'd argue Innoglue is better. And Elmer's Rubber Cement, of course.

I wish I could get Innoglue easily.

Iskandar


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