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PostPosted: 18 May 2010, 20:28 
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fattchoi wrote:
cstt, I remember I read somewhere that with copydex, one can apply glue on both the rubber and blade. Wait for them to dry and then stick them together. Sounded very much like the way Stiga Synchro is used. And when peeling off the rubber from blade, the glue will stick to the rubber and can then be removed easily. Don't know if anyone has used Copydex this way can confirm? Thanks.


I've always used Copydex as a 'contact' glue, applying glue (thinned down with a little water and spread thinly with foam)
to both the blade and sponge; then drying with a hairdryer; and then carefully placing together (if alignment is wrong, you'll have to start again) and then rolling.

I use a hairdryer to save time but also to make sure it's totally dry-I've only had bad results with Copydex
when failing to let it dry fully.

When removing it only sticks to the sponge: most of the time it comes away from the sponge fairly easily.

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PostPosted: 06 Sep 2010, 14:51 
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I have one question regarding the water based glues. On my brother's Michael Maze blade he has put T64 Black on his forehand. After using this setup for 7-8 weeks the T64 near the handle of the blade has become loose and detached from the blade. So he needs to reglue his rubber. Now when he had put the rubber on his blade using Butterfly Free Chack, it was exactly the same size of the blade since he had cut it before he pasted it on his blade. Now, after 8 weeks, it has shrunk around 1-2 mm on all the sides on the blade itself. Now if he removes the rubber, will it shrink any further..? :(
Also, is it necessary to remove all the old glue form the sponge before applying new layer of Butterfly free Chack on the sponge of T64 which he is using right now..? :doh:
Thanks in advance.
Regards,
Duke

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PostPosted: 06 Sep 2010, 15:46 
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Yes it may well shrink further... Tenergy is tensioned when new and seems to shrink over time. If there is a clear gap showing around the edges, it's technically already illegal for competition.

No need to remove the old glue, it should have little effect.

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PostPosted: 06 Sep 2010, 16:32 
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The con of using the water-based silicon I use is the residue I get left on the blade when I remove a rubber. Some turps and a blade takes that off reasonably quick though. The pro is I never had a rubber shrink...and its cheap.

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PostPosted: 06 Sep 2010, 17:02 
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haggisv wrote:
Yes it may well shrink further... Tenergy is tensioned when new and seems to shrink over time. If there is a clear gap showing around the edges, it's technically already illegal for competition.

No need to remove the old glue, it should have little effect.

That's a bad news for him, Alex. So if he puts some free chack into the gap where the rubber has become loose and then press it overnight, will it stick to the blade..??
The gap is not big enough to show right now but if he removes the rubber and it does shrink further, then the gap may show considerably. :(
So what do you say..?
Thanks in advance,
Regards,
Duke

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PostPosted: 07 Sep 2010, 11:24 
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My early Tenergies do shrink when I used them with VOC glue. But ever since I switched to Copydex, no shrinkage at all even though I have reglued them many times over many months now. And lately, I am using the new T05FX and again, no shrinkage so far.

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PostPosted: 07 Sep 2010, 16:14 
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speedplay wrote:
I very much doubt that it will work to lift the rubber and reglue only the part that has comeloss. At least, it doesn't work with VOC glue.



Thanks Speedplay. I indeed tried to put some glue in the gap where the rubber was loose and after spreading it with a thin wooden stick in the gap on the blade as well as on the sponge and after half an hour later I rolled the rubber gently and put some heavy books on the racket and kept it that way overnight. In the morning, the rubber was attached near perfectly to the blade without having any bubbles or any visual defect. My brother had a go with this setup and he told me that it was working nicely. :)
So for the moment, his racket is doing a good job. Will let you guys know if the rubbers becomes loose again or stays put to the blade. :^)
Regards,
Duke

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PostPosted: 19 Sep 2010, 02:10 
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question for discussion: is it good idea to put layer of glue on the blade?

I use dandoy glue by chance, and it is instructed on this glue to apply glue on sponge only

and no wonder it is so, because wood in blade gets soaked with water from fresh glue (water based), and this is not good for play (I am suspicious that reports about dead feeling of a rubber within first week after glueing has something to do with applying glue on the blade; after a week blade dries up and setup becomes livelier)

two layers od dandoy glue on the sponge are sufficient for good bond, but not for domed rubber


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PostPosted: 06 Oct 2010, 21:08 
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duke4423 wrote:
Now, after 8 weeks, it has shrunk around 1-2 mm on all the sides on the blade itself. Now if he removes the rubber, will it shrink any further..? :(
Duke


If the rubber has shrunk, you could simply expand it back by applying oil to it. For example, Johnson's baby oil (which is almost entirely paraffine oil). You can apply the oil on the sponge or the topsheet or both, depending on which part has shrunk.

AFAIK this is legal you are not stretching the topsheet, you are just restoring its original stretch.

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PostPosted: 07 Oct 2010, 09:16 
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I've moved from Copydex to Butterfly Free Chack, and I seriously would never even consider going back.

With the Copydex being so thick, I went through a significant amount compared to the Free Chack, and really, it simply didn't give as good results. The only thing better about it, I thought, was how easy it was to peel off the rubber afterwards. The Free Chack is easy to use, has never given me anything but a perfect result, and I have not even gone through half of it yet for a decent amount of gluing. Compared to the others, decent value, but when it comes down to a few dollars difference anyway, why not just go for something that works? This definitely does.

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PostPosted: 20 Jan 2011, 07:12 
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fattchoi wrote:
haggisv, what about the Stiga Synchro BTG that you have used? I have tried it only once from Beer Belly.

Pro: bond is immediate after allowing the glue to dry on both the rubber and blade. Just a very thin layer is required. The glue stays on the rubber when removed from the blade and very easily rubbed off from the rubber after that.
Cons: The rubber can come off the blade rather easily if you accidentally hit the rubber against the table.

Conclusion: Of all the other water-based glue I have used, I like this one the best.


+1
Another Pro: the 150ml Stiga Synchro BTG lasts for a huge number of rubbers.
___________
The Butterfly Free Chack is not easy to remove from sponge = makes rubber heavier when reglued.

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DHS No.15 Glue, 98mL:
Cons: to many bad batches. I gave up on them. But then I found Stiga Synchro BTG and it is the best for me.


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PostPosted: 02 Feb 2011, 00:48 
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I have a 1000 ml bottle of Joola XGlue in front of me, and I have no idea what to do, nor do I know anything about this glue. It's a very big bottle, and I got some sponges with it. How do I get the glue on the blade? If I try to pour a little bit on the rubber/blade it will become a swimming pool I'm afraid. Stuff is almost as thick as milk. :sweat:
Any tips are welcome.

EDIT

Found an old bottle of Tear Mender, and got some glue into that bottle. Great glue :clap:
Not to thick, not to thin. Spreads easily and dries quite fast, in less than 5 minutes I could attach my rubbers. Holds a domed rubber quite easily to. Only drawback so far is the smell so far, it really reeks. But it completely smells the same as Copydex by the way.

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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2012, 16:04 
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Not sure if this is water based (probably not since it has a noticeable smell) but "Best Test Paper Cement" is a very sticky rubber cement and yet very easy to remove the rubber from the blade. Best not to thin it at all. One coat on the sponge stays on forever but it can be rubbed off with your fingers without tearing the sponge. This cement works very well on domed rubbers too.

http://www.benfranklin.com/item.php?id= ... p=MP-BT102


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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2012, 16:18 
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Ironman wrote:
+1
Another Pro: the 150ml Stiga Synchro BTG lasts for a huge number of rubbers.

But it clogs up near the neck of the bottle and the brush, and gets worse over time. As a glue it's great, but I doubt it's shelve life is very good.

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PostPosted: 25 Jan 2012, 19:20 
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LKT Special (I did like this glue at first, but can't recommend it any more. See edits/strikeouts below)

Pros:
Spreads easily
Easy to remove rubbers
Easy to remove glue
The first couple of weeks after glueing, the glue will rub off and roll up nicely. After a while the glue seems to emit a smeary component which is very hard to remove. I managed it mechanically by using the flat side (not pip side) of a rubber cutoff to drag it off. A nylon eraser works similarly. Others have reported success using acetone. Both procedures require a bit of work.

Cons:
The sponge enclosed with the glue is hard to work with. The glue seems to harden immediately and roll up.
Regular kitchen sponge works a bit better, but a brush works best.
Use a slightly wet sheet from the kitchen roll (tissue paper that does not dissolve when wet).

When applying multiple coats (as sometimes advised for OX assembly) the glue rolls up very easily.
I've had to wait several hours and then go lightly with the brush to succeed with this procedure.
However, it seems that multiple coats is not really necessary...


(Only tried it on sealed blades and with flat rubber sheets. No testing of domed rubbers or table hitting, sorry!)
The glue does not seem to set completely, so it won't hold a strong dome.


Last edited by keme on 23 Dec 2012, 08:04, edited 1 time in total.

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