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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2016, 19:06 
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Blade: Palio WAY-003
FH: Yinhe Mars II medium
BH: Yinhe 955
Blades and rubbers mentioned are good, that's not really the point. It's more that almost any custom setup will be an improvement in spin and speed over the Wakaba, so even a cheap sub $20 with 729 rubbers would do. The combination of blade with rubbers then is essential.
You need to get a setup where you feel the ball and where you can sense how you did hit it. Therefore control above spin above speed should be the order to look for, so a standard all-wood, not too stiff, not too fast, not too flexible would be the obvious choice. The Sweden Classic does fulfill this more than the Extra, Stiga Allround Classic and derivatives would be my advice and the Sanwei M8 plus a couple of others which are very similar to it, would do as well, more or less.
With such an AR-blade you should go for rubbers with a tad softer-medium hardness. I recommend reading http://www.experttabletennis.com/best-table-tennis-bat-for-beginners/

Eacheng has the Sanwei M8 with 2x T88-III that would fit the bill for less than $20. Don't be fooled by the price.
For $25 you can get the M8 with Dawei 2008XP and LKT ProXP and here you can choose to have the rubbers in different thicknesses, like 1.8mm/2mm, if you like.

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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2016, 21:56 
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I have never played with the Yasaka Sweden Extra so I can't comment, other than I've seen people recommend it. Should be along the same line as Swedish five ply blades. The Sanwei M8 is, as well. The Yasaka is going to be a lot more expensive, of course.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 13 Jan 2017, 04:21 
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Just want to follow up and say that I ended up buying one of these

Sanwei M8 M 8 M-8 With 2x 729 General table tennis Rubber With Sponge for one paddle

for $16. Everything went smoothly. I bought this to be a loaner paddle for friends, but it turns out that I play better with it than my regular, more expensive paddle so for now the Sanwei is a keeper not a loaner!

Thanks again for the recommendation!


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PostPosted: 08 Feb 2017, 14:43 
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Interesting. Am in Chiang Mai on holiday and there is a Chinese bookstore next to the hotel. This one seems to be a REAL Chinese bookstore (from mainland China) as opposed to the old, locally owned ones (several of those by the river), and like all good Chinese bookstores they carry table tennis stuff. Now I know where people at the club are getting their DHS celluloid balls from.

Anyhow they have a lot of DHS premades. Some are really low quality - you'll never find them on Eacheng. But a couple were interesting. The top end one (two versions - shakehands and RPB) had H3 and G888. This was 750 baht (about $20). But more interesting was the next model down, for 500 baht. This had PF4 and C7! Yup, a combination bat. Kinda tempted to buy one. I used to think PF4 was the lowest end DHS rubber, it's not. The cheapest bats came with a rubber with 4 digits - I should take notes when shopping.. :lol: - but it's something I've never seen before.

By the way - checking Eacheng, the 6002 now comes with H8! And they're putting TG3/H3 on one of the lower models.

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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 19:42 
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It is my post at OOAK after few years and i m doing so to share my experience which may help others.

I have been playing table tennis for last many years and few months back i shifted to tensors from Mark V + YE setup. I used Tensor , Xiom Vega Pro on my trusted YE. The transition was problematic, i was losing control on high impact strokes. I though its because of rubber and i changed to Donic Barracuda as its a controlled tensor but also Xion Vega Pro is not a speed demon. The problem persisted, and i was losing control on high impact shots. I was confused, what to do, and thn i though about changing the wood. I switched wood to YEO from YE and problem remained the same, high impact shots and ball was flying like a bullet without any control. I was not understanding the reason and one of my friends recommended me to change the wood and i ordered Donic Waldner Senso Carbon from TT11. New wood arrived after few days and i pasted rubbers on it and again same problem and i was frustrated.

One thing that among all my woods (YE,YEO and WSC) one thing was common, slow loops and slow shots were fine but whenever i tried for a powerful stroke i missed the table. I was not finding the reason of the problem and then something came in my mind, all my blades YE, YEO and WSC are flexible blades why not try same rubbers on some stiff blade. This time i ordered some cheap blade from AliExpress, and it was Yinhe Y15 which arrived yesterday and i played with same rubbers on the blade and everything was in perfect. Power shots were on table and there was not a single problem. Now lets come to the conclusion which is totally based on my experience after all this and share my thoughts on what actually happened.

YE, YEO and WSC are all very good blades. I improved my technique using YE and Mark Vs and i still believe that YE plus any classic rubber is best way to learn TT. But all these blades are flexible, and with tensors on power shots or high impact shots, the flex of the blade and catapult of the rubber adds together and ball leaves the blade like a bullet, with no to less spin and uncontrollable. Please before purchasing any latest equipment, make sure that it goes well with your current blade or vice versa.

Conclusion which is based on my experience, Tensors work best with Stiff blades and not with flexy blades. For better dwell time, one may chose the blade with softer outer ply. I would like to hear your thoughts, as what i shared is based on my experience. ooh by the way, i am impressed by Yinhe, what a quality product in 36 dollars. By the way, i ordered from AliExpress but when blade arrived, seller included Rubber protection Sheets which says Eacheng.


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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 20:25 
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There are a number of high level loopers on this forum who like thin, flexy blades.. they even complain that the more recent versions of blades such as the W6 are less flexy than they were in the past and "feel" different. It'd be interesting to hear what they have to say on this subject.. :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 21:02 
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Yes Iskandar, I would like to hear the feedback. Though, I have not seen any national level player using a flexy blade with tensors. I am not sure what is the difference in weight of a celluloid and plastic ball. I feel that ball weight can b a reason for extra flex of blade.


Last edited by TT-Lover on 29 Mar 2017, 21:11, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 21:05 
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Image yinhe V15


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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 21:05 
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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 21:07 
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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 21:08 
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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 21:08 
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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 22:31 
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Blade: Butterfly Defense Alpha
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TT-Lover wrote:
Yes Iskandar, I would like to hear the feedback. Though, I have not seen any national level player using a flexy blade with tensors. I am not sure what is the difference in weight of a celluloid and plastic ball. I feel that ball weight can b a reason for extra flex of blade.


Laws of physics would probably disagree here ;)

If you don't mind me asking - what is your playing level? I find it very useful to place reviews in context, as different players tend to value different things.

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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 23:13 
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I am an Intermediate player and playing table tennis for few years. My post is based on my experience with combination of flexy blades with tensors.


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PostPosted: 29 Mar 2017, 23:43 
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TT-Lover wrote:
I am an Intermediate player and playing table tennis for few years. My post is based on my experience with combination of flexy blades with tensors.


Unfortunately I don't know what to do with 'intermediate' - do you have a rating of some sort, league ranking etc. I'm not trying to be difficult here or discount your opinion - just want to understand your reference point.

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