OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Hi,

I want to create a couple of my own sandpaper racquets so that I can play with them at home and take them to the club as an alternate to the sandwich sponge rubber game (because I actually like sandpaper play: Longer, more exciting rallies; you can hit a little flatter; more time to react to the ball coming back; sandpaper forces you to wait for the ball, and so can help develop proper technique)
and I was wondering what blade you would recommend I buy to use for it?
I was looking at a couple of inexpensive blades: the YinHe (Galaxy N-10) and YinHe (Galaxy N-11). Would either of these be good to put sandpaper on?
Which types of blades would work best with sandpaper / hardbat? Would I want to look for a blade high in control, and not too fast? Can it have some speed to it?
What other factors I am looking for?

Also, what grit of sandpaper would you recommend? I heard the wet-dry type is the best.
I have heard that you want to use a fine / extra fine gritted sandpaper, but what number grit would you recommend?
Would 240 grit be good?
What is the affect of more fine sandpaper versus coarser sandpaper? Would it depend on my playing style?
If I want to play more offensively, would I want a higher gritted sandpaper or lower?

Thanks,
~J.J.

JJ I highly recommend that you direct your query to mytabletennis.net. There are brilliant equipment experts there who will gladly help you.

I would think you'll probably need a similar blade to those used for hardbat.

Here is some info on a sandpaper bat that I made up some time ago, with some tips from other people on what grit paper to use, as the one I used was best for shredding balls.

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IMO, choose a blade you'd want to chop or flat hit with low friction 0X long pips on both sides with.

Playing with long pips reminds me a lot of when I played with sandpaper.

_________________
--- Push/Chop or Attack ---
USATT 1684 left, Lost it all by playing sick and hurt.
No legs left, no more backing up, just smash it!
Blade: TTPiet OFF-/ALL custom
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X

No matter what grit sandpaper you use, you'll essentially be using the same paddle. It won't make enough of a difference to even be detectable, IMO. The whole point of sandpaper is that the deception of large amounts of spin becomes absent from the game, and even the coarsest, thickest sandpaper isn't going to let you loop the ball as much as a rubber hardbat.

So just slap some random sandpaper on there and have fun.

_________________
Custom Blade 'Hard Justice' w/ Yasaka Cobalt a
Tatco Hornet w/ ATP Leland Era

Valour sells 120 to 220, all tan, not the black wet or dry, for sandpaper paddles. I used to play with 180 on mine, but 200 might have been a bit better. I just glued it on with Elmers white glue, but mine was one of those 4 to a set cheap paddles that came with a net and posts, etc. I'm guessing the Tear Mender or Water based glues would work fine for it once it had a couple hours to dry.

LOL, take balls with you because nobody will like having their $3 balls scratched up

_________________
--- Push/Chop or Attack ---
USATT 1684 left, Lost it all by playing sick and hurt.
No legs left, no more backing up, just smash it!
Blade: TTPiet OFF-/ALL custom
FH: Spinlord Waran Short Pips
BH: Joola Badman Reloaded 0X

Yes, I hear from their expert reviews that red oxide 300 grit has lower throw than black wet-400 and more suitable to mid-distance loopdriving game. But then again another thread claims that Zhang Jike once used wet-400 to defeat a 2600 level player with video screenshot of his blade as proof so use that if your style is similar to his. Of course it's likely that the 400 he had was custom from the factory so make sure to get professional grades which should be closer in quality.

Be careful not to put a non-linear high throw multi-geared sandpaper on an unforgiving medium throw blade.

Yinhe actually MAKES a sandpaper bat:


No idea if it's good, bad or indifferent, and I've no idea how you'd get one (haven't seen it on any of the usual websites).

Iskandar

Hi Carbonman,

I just took your advice and posted the same thing at mytabletennis.net. I am now awaiting a reply regarding which blade they recommend...

So what do you mean to be careful not to put non-linear high throw sandpaper on an unforgiving medium throw blade? Doesn't the throw angle (of an inverted rubber, for example) measure how high the material (or the wood surface, in the case of a blade) lifts the ball over the net with regard to a topspin stroke (and the reverse for a backspin shot)?

So what do you mean by "non-linear" high throw sandpaper? What would the problem be if you put it on a medium throw blade?

TT reviews apparently abide Poe's Law.

To be honest JJ i have no idea what those terms mean but they sure look impressive. It would be worth your while to cut and paste the sentence and put it in your thread at mytabletennis.net. The experts there will certainly be able to translate it for you. The will also help with your original query in a well balanced and non-zealous manner.