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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2016, 20:45 
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Blade: Donic Waldner Senso V1
FH: Victas VS401
BH: Victas Triple Regular
I think that will be suitable.

Also I've used the Donic Vario Glue. You only need a small amount to have a thin film.

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Donic Waldner Senso V1,FH Victas VS401 2.0mm ,BH Victas Triple Regular 2.0mm


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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2016, 20:56 
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prav wrote:
Thank you.. for clearing my doubt on glue.[i was about to ask.. "what if i use bicycle tube glue".. :) { thats a speed glue i believe}/ :)

on rubbers again... Is the below rubber worth trying on the waldner's blade i have mentioned earlier? [coz we almost only get this friendship rubber in India.]

http://www.snapdeal.com/product/friends ... e%20tennis


Yeah, the first speed glues were bicycle glues. But I think they must've diluted them with something - the glues used for repairing bicycle tires are meant to be strong, I think.. getting the rubber off the blade again might be a problem. Back in those days I always bought ASTI brand speed glue, never tried anything else.

The 729 Cross rubber should be OK. To be honest, I think the differences between most Chinese rubbers are minimal, pretty much all of them will work for most people. I don't believe 729 really makes 20 kinds of rubber - they probably make 4 or 5 and switch topsheets and sponges around. Topsheet molds can be made so that the label area is interchangeable. The bottom mold is the one that forms the pips, those can be paired with any number of top molds (which forms the label). Maybe they only have three or four different ones... :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2016, 21:55 
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iskandar taib wrote:
prav wrote:
Thank you.. for clearing my doubt on glue.[i was about to ask.. "what if i use bicycle tube glue".. :) { thats a speed glue i believe}/ :)

on rubbers again... Is the below rubber worth trying on the waldner's blade i have mentioned earlier? [coz we almost only get this friendship rubber in India.]

http://www.snapdeal.com/product/friends ... e%20tennis


Yeah, the first speed glues were bicycle glues. But I think they must've diluted them with something - the glues used for repairing bicycle tires are meant to be strong, I think.. getting the rubber off the blade again might be a problem. Back in those days I always bought ASTI brand speed glue, never tried anything else.

The 729 Cross rubber should be OK. To be honest, I think the differences between most Chinese rubbers are minimal, pretty much all of them will work for most people. I don't believe 729 really makes 20 kinds of rubber - they probably make 4 or 5 and switch topsheets and sponges around. Topsheet molds can be made so that the label area is interchangeable. The bottom mold is the one that forms the pips, those can be paired with any number of top molds (which forms the label). Maybe they only have three or four different ones... :lol:

Iskandar



Thank you.. Iskandar..:) So i have narrowed in my Equipment. Expecting one Final suggestion from you.I have decided my rubber and its 729 cross for sure.. That would be glued on Waldner exclusive or waldner all play.? which blade do you suggest in these two. If you suggest one... please mention the reason..:)

-Regards,
Praveen.J


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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2016, 22:43 
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Blade: Donic Waldner Senso V1
FH: Victas VS401
BH: Victas Triple Regular
I'd go the standard Waldner...........its the real deal. Made in Sweden. Depending of price difference, the exclusive would be just as good though probably. I've hit with both, little difference that I could notice. Waldner handle feels a little woody, Exclusive is a bit more of a glossy finish, both are comfortable.

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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2016, 23:30 
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I agree with Cobalt. The exclusive is a little stiffer and harder, whereas the softer and more flexy allplay will combine better with the (firm) Chinese rubbers.

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Recent Articles: Butterfly Tenergy Alternatives | Tenergy Rubbers Compared | Re-Impact User Guide


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PostPosted: 13 Apr 2016, 14:48 
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haggisv wrote:
I agree with Cobalt. The exclusive is a little stiffer and harder, whereas the softer and more flexy allplay will combine better with the (firm) Chinese rubbers.



So finally.. which one would be a better blade... to put it simple.:)

-Prav


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PostPosted: 13 Apr 2016, 15:13 
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prav wrote:
haggisv wrote:
I agree with Cobalt. The exclusive is a little stiffer and harder, whereas the softer and more flexy allplay will combine better with the (firm) Chinese rubbers.
So finally.. which one would be a better blade... to put it simple.:)

Read the responses again, we've already told you our recommendation. ;)

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Setup1: Re-Impact Smart, Viper OX, Victas VS 401 Setup2: Re-Impact Barath, Dtecs OX, TSP Triple Spin Chop 1.0mm Setup3: Re-Impact Dark Knight, Hellfire OX, 999 Turbo
Recent Articles: Butterfly Tenergy Alternatives | Tenergy Rubbers Compared | Re-Impact User Guide


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PostPosted: 13 Apr 2016, 15:21 
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haggisv wrote:
prav wrote:
haggisv wrote:
I agree with Cobalt. The exclusive is a little stiffer and harder, whereas the softer and more flexy allplay will combine better with the (firm) Chinese rubbers.
So finally.. which one would be a better blade... to put it simple.:)

Read the responses again, we've already told you our recommendation. ;)


Thank you..........all .. for the replies....... :clap: :rock:


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PostPosted: 18 Apr 2017, 04:42 
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Instinct penhold and n11 even n10 are sold out iT seems.
Only one spot sells iT on eBay...But only in combination of expensive rubbers.

I am thinking of Buying a dhs 4007 at 20$ including bag. Or one of these custom.


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PostPosted: 18 Apr 2017, 04:42 
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Instinct penhold and n11 even n10 are sold out iT seems.
Only one spot sells iT on eBay...But only in combination of expensive rubbers.

I am thinking of Buying a dhs 4007 at 20$ including bag. Or one of these custom.


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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2019, 05:04 
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Blade: DHS Hurricane Hao II
FH: DHS Hurricane III NEO Pro
BH: Nittaku FastArc-G1
Revival!

I’ve used Yinhe N9 and N3 both as training setup paired with mercury II and I found them to be awesome! I like the crispness of the N3 better.

Very controlled, not too fast, not too slow. Allows you to muscle into your strokes and give you confidence to use all of your swing power. When you make a mistake, you feel it and you can adjust accordingly.

I think it’s an awesome set up one can play with up to pretty high levels.

Happy new year!


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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2019, 14:58 
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Wow.. an old thread!

My recommendation for a blade these days is the Sanwei M8.

Image

It also happens to be one of the cheapest blades you can find:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-sel ... 22548.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SANWEI- ... 01460.html

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SANWEI- ... 74001.html

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 03 Jan 2019, 17:01 
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iskandar taib wrote:

It also happens to be one of the cheapest blades you can find:


Well, the cheapest I've come across is

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/BLACK-W ... 9710f2cfe2

Another blade that's as cheap or expensive (whatever way you look @ it) as the M8 is

https://www.aliexpress.com/store/produc ... 4ad4Q88wrF


Disclaimer I've never bought or used these blades


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PostPosted: 23 Oct 2019, 13:24 
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Iskandar,

What’s the difference between those two blades? I notice a slightly different handle design and one states for beginners (junior model).

It may be a terrible combination but I built a racquet in 2016. (Yinhe N9 w Hurricane 3 & Skyline 3 rubber). I live in a small state in the US and there’s NO completion TT, it’s all basement play. The locals started playing again so I’m getting back into it and relearning the equipment. I’m think it’s time for a change.

Thanks in advance.


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PostPosted: 23 Oct 2019, 19:30 
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There isn't any difference between the old "red label" M8 and the new "Junior" M8. The handle blocks are of a different color (actually, there have been 2-3 changes over the last few years) and they've got different printing on the blade. There are individual differences between blades (mainly different weights) but that's something else altogether. I've never tried the "Black Wood" XVT so I can't comment. It does seem to be quite a bit heavier though.

Iskandar


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