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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2016, 16:57 
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i looking to buy a new offensive blade. Anyone who have used an avalox p700/555/500 (any all wood blade for that matter) or any ALC blade have any advice/experience you can share? comparisons? :)


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PostPosted: 05 Nov 2016, 18:58 
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They're both good but also quite different. Depending on what you're after you might go different way. For any good amateur hobbyists you should have one of each though.

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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2016, 11:38 
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They're both expensive... :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2016, 16:19 
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iskandar taib wrote:
They're both expensive... :lol:

Iskandar

that's arguable. pretty sure LordCope is selling a pretty much new condition p700 with a H8 for 55 pounds.


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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2016, 16:31 
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ttplayer3242432 wrote:
iskandar taib wrote:
They're both expensive... :lol:

Iskandar

that's arguable. pretty sure LordCope is selling a pretty much new condition p700 with a H8 for 55 pounds.


That's expensive for Iskandar.... who prefers to source bargains from eacheng.... I don't have the patience for that!

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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2016, 16:37 
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FWIW ttplayer, I didn't get on with the P700. I bought two, both new, one from a forum member and one from tabletennis11. The one I bought from the forum member I used for about 10 mins, and then gave to my brother. The one from tabletennis11 I played a few matches with and a few training sessions, before deciding it wasn't for me. I used it briefly when I was using SP on my BH instead of LP, and for that style of inverted FH and SP BH, I think it's probably close to the best blade there is. But with OX LP it didn't suit me at all, and compared to my regular Hiloom, it was a bit fast on the FH.

Depending on your style, if you want a fast, attacking blade, with good feel, that's great for hitting with, then a P700 is an excellent choice.

I know nothing about the Butterfly ALC blades - I've never held one.

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PostPosted: 06 Nov 2016, 20:16 
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I've had a BT555 (5 ply wood, 92g) and an LKT 168 (alc + koto, 97g).

They are very different blades that behave differently in most situations. The LKT is more powerful, much stiffer and very predictable for loops and blocks. The BT flexes significantly with the more power that you give it, which means there's an increase in dwell for harder loops / blocks. This also means that you have a bigger timing window to add spin. It becomes a lot harder to accidentally overshoot the table when you put in a lot of power. It's 'springy', but it doesn't really add any top end speed, it just takes less effort to do the mid-high-power shots. If the BT is too slow for you, you may find that you stray from correct technique in an effort to generate more power, therefore making more mistakes. If you use a fast, non-tacky rubber, the BT should be fast enough for a modern allround attacking game based on serve + attack, spin variation and good placement & consistency. The BT is quite controllable over the table, but the LKT is not controllable enough for me (with T05). Maybe with a tackier / more controllable rubber, the LKT would be ok.

Some people don't like flex for blocking, but after you get used to it, it becomes just as easy to block as with a stiff blade. You just need to develop the feel. You will also develop a more active block with a more flexy blade and I think spin variation and deception is easier.

So the BT is great if you want to focus on control, safety and spin. But you need to make your own top end power. The LKT is great if you want to focus on speed, but don't expect the best control / consistency unless you have a high level of touch.

An alternative would be the BT777 (which I haven't played) as it should be somewhere between the other two blades.


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PostPosted: 07 Nov 2016, 12:22 
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My views are much the same of WorkoutMontage. Given the same rubber (T05) used on both blades, you're going to get two very different experiences. On the 5-ply all wood (Violin, Grubba All+) you'll have good control on light contact shots near the net. On blocks and medium pace hits, you'll have less control, as the ball seems to spring a bit higher than I'd like due to dwell/flex of the blade. Loops will have a higher arc and more spin, but less speed. Drives carry a lot of spin, lower arc than loops with a little more spin.

On the ALC (Viscaria) the top ply is softer, but overall the blade feels stiff without much feeling on contact. The softness helps the lighter contact near net pushes feel controllable like all wood. TB ALC seems to have a harder top ply, which is a little more difficult to control on near net shots. On the blocks and counter hitting, the stiffness gives a consistent return with NO springy surprises. Loops are okay. No wow factor. Loops will land deeper on the opponents side with less spin and go long off the table more than a 5-ply all wood. Loops and drives will be faster with the ALC.

My attempt to compare the two may seemed bias towards AW, but that it because my game has developed from an all out 3rd ball attack style to an all out 3rd ball attacker with more control. Since I swapped, I keep more balls on the table and my rating has improved greatly. I do feel a little frustration when I REALLY want to put the ball away with a loop drive down the line, but my Violin doesn't carry the speed of my Viscaria, which allows my opponent the opportunity to return my kill shot. It just means I have to rip another one cross court while he's out of position.

Essentially, in my evaluation, 5-ply is for a controlled loop style of game. ALC is better for blocking, counter hitting and driving.

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PostPosted: 07 Nov 2016, 15:34 
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ttplayer3242432 wrote:
iskandar taib wrote:
They're both expensive... :lol:

Iskandar

that's arguable. pretty sure LordCope is selling a pretty much new condition p700 with a H8 for 55 pounds.


Hmmm...

http://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng/avalox-p700

EUR62.50

http://ttnpp.com/store/avalox/522-avalox-p700-7.html

USD39.

That's actually not too bad, though you can get, say, a Stiga Allround Classic WRB for EUR24.60:

http://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng/ ... lassic-wrb

But then again... Sanwei M8 for USD7:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Hot-sel ... 22548.html

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 09 Dec 2016, 18:24 
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Blade: defensive
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Avalox.

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PostPosted: 09 Dec 2016, 20:13 
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iskandar taib wrote:
http://ttnpp.com/store/avalox/522-avalox-p700-7.html

USD39.

I would be 99% sure that this is not genuine, but purchased from a Chinese distributor that makes these blade in China. ttnpp may not even be aware of this. There are quite a few other retailers that also get these blades from the Chinese distributor, which is obviously a lot cheaper than the Swedish ones made by Avalox. See the Avalox interview for details.

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PostPosted: 09 Dec 2016, 22:51 
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How to differentiate them?

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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 08:55 
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That's a good question... I don't know. :oops:
Avalox (the manufacturer) tells me that only if it's on their list of distributors, or a dealer of one of these distributors, can you be sure it's one of theirs.

Apart from the price, the available range is often a good indication, since I think the Chinese manufacturer only makes a few of the more popular models, not the whole range. They also usually only carry the Avalox range, not the AVX range.

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PostPosted: 10 Dec 2016, 09:40 
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:P :P

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PostPosted: 11 Dec 2016, 02:29 
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rokphish2 wrote:
They're both good but also quite different. Depending on what you're after you might go different way. For any good amateur hobbyists you should have one of each though.



man and you definitely got one of each, if only you live nearby and i can test out each of them haha.
I'm like assuming you pick your blades before a practice like a woman pick a dress before a date.


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