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PostPosted: 22 Jan 2017, 23:52 
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I have been wondering if i could use rubber cement to glue my recent evolution EL-P purchase. I use rubber cement for all my chinese rubber but am scared with the new ESN stuff. I plan to glue it and not removal till it is time for replacement.
I have had lots of difficulties with the water based glues.


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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2017, 04:11 
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what kind of difficulties? it could not be simpler...so much less trouble than i had with constant gluing for every training...

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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2017, 05:11 
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111Iceman111 wrote:
what kind of difficulties? it could not be simpler...so much less trouble than i had with constant gluing for every training...


glue too thick, not smooth, does not spread well, rubber comes off blade too soon, etc


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PostPosted: 23 Jan 2017, 23:41 
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hm, never had this problems...maybe i just had luck with the glues?

when i get new rubber i put one layer of glue evenly on the sponge, wait for it to dry and become transparent, then one more layer, and one layer on the wood...

and thats it...i dont remove the rubber until it is worn out and i have to replace it...this is much simpler for me than before...

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PostPosted: 24 Jan 2017, 00:45 
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111Iceman111 wrote:
hm, never had this problems...maybe i just had luck with the glues?

when i get new rubber i put one layer of glue evenly on the sponge, wait for it to dry and become transparent, then one more layer, and one layer on the wood...

and thats it...i dont remove the rubber until it is worn out and i have to replace it...this is much simpler for me than before...

+1. And only a 2nd layer on the sponge for large pore rubbers.

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PostPosted: 24 Jan 2017, 05:09 
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i used a version of elmers water based glue from home depot on my last sheet. if it lasts i am good. two prior water based glues were hard to deal with-tear mender and stiga brand.
i also do one coat on rubber and one on blade


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PostPosted: 31 Mar 2017, 00:31 
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vanjr wrote:
i used a version of elmers water based glue from home depot on my last sheet. if it lasts i am good. two prior water based glues were hard to deal with-tear mender and stiga brand.
i also do one coat on rubber and one on blade


I believe that Tear Mender is very similar to Copydex, which seems to me to be a thicker version of the Joola Lex WBG I normally use. I found that you certainly cannot use the brush included with Copydex, or you will get lumps. Using a slightly dampened sponge does work though. And if you need to get old glue off a rubber, Copydex spread on in a thick layer and allowed to dry will come off in a single sheet, taking the old glue with it.

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PostPosted: 28 Jun 2017, 08:33 
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Hi all. I thought I was doing something wrong so I'm glad I found this thread !! This shrinkage seems to also happen on some rubbers without the "Tensor" logo so I guess it is strictly related to factory tuning regardless of where they are made? Also, if I remove a tensor rubber from its packaging but don't glue it to a blade for 2 months or so, it will shrink a bit on its own? Or does it need to be glued on blade first, and then removed, to see this annoying behavior? My rubbers start shrinking within a week of being glued but I move them to various blades each week until I find a good combo. By then, however, there is a 5mm shrinkage gap all the way around!!! :headbang: TIA.



iskandar taib wrote:
I think this is a problem common to all (or most) Tensors. If you take them off the blade after using them for a couple months you'll find they've shrunk. Why? Perhaps they're boosted, er, "tunned" at the factory with "oils" similar to what Chinese players supposedly all use on Hurricane. They're sold in an expanded state, and will shrink if left in the open. If they're left on the blade in 2-3 months or less the "tuned" feeling wears off (as it does with boosted rubber). The rubber has now shrunk, but is prevented from physically doing so because it's attached to the blade. So it's under tension. The wrong type of tension, however, the opposite of the sort of tension we used to put on the rubber when we speed glued and stuck the rubber on the blade while still domed.

Tenergy probably behaves the same way.

Iskandar

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PostPosted: 03 Jul 2017, 03:49 
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vanjr wrote:
i used a version of elmers water based glue from home depot on my last sheet. if it lasts i am good. two prior water based glues were hard to deal with-tear mender and stiga brand.
i also do one coat on rubber and one on blade


Yikes... this isn't the white PVA glue was it? That stuff is for gluing WOOD. Hopefully you can get the rubber off again when the time comes.. :lol:

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Big_Fat_Loop wrote:
Hi all. I thought I was doing something wrong so I'm glad I found this thread !! This shrinkage seems to also happen on some rubbers without the "Tensor" logo so I guess it is strictly related to factory tuning regardless of where they are made? Also, if I remove a tensor rubber from its packaging but don't glue it to a blade for 2 months or so, it will shrink a bit on its own? Or does it need to be glued on blade first, and then removed, to see this annoying behavior? My rubbers start shrinking within a week of being glued but I move them to various blades each week until I find a good combo. By then, however, there is a 5mm shrinkage gap all the way around!!! :headbang: TIA.


Yup, it's not just Tensors (with the Tensor logo). It's all the pre-boosted "glue effect" rubbers out there, including Butterfly Tenergy and any number of Yasaka and TSP rubbers, and other made-in-Japan sheets like Stiga Calibra and Airoc. Also companies like Donic and Tibhar sell rubbers made by ESN without using ESN's Tensor logo. It probably even happens to "factory tunned" Chinese rubber (e.g. Big Dipper).

By the way, the provenance of Tibhar's Evolution rubbers is not all that clear - some people say it's made in Japan, or at least parts of it are. It certainly does have some suspicious markings on it that make it unTensorlike.

Iskandar


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