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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 10:19 
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Blade: Innerforce ZLC
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Ordered a revolution blade for my buddy from DSM recently. He ended up liking the blade but wanting to swap out the DSM LSD long pips for something he was more familiar with. Paid for sealing but it doesn't look like it ever was. This crap is IMPOSSIBLE to get off. Assembled by DSM. I've never screwed with glue sheets and non-sealed blades. Tried hairdryer, eraser, sponge on an old rubber, etc. Peeling it feels like I'm risking splintering the wood. Emailed support on it to see what happened with the sealant, but do you guys have any ideas on how this s*** may be able to be removed so I can seal it myself?

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I cringe just looking at the photos.


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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 11:16 
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Maybe that is the sealer and not the glue? :^)


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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 16:45 
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Try some aceton for removing, that works with most glues. Aceton os normally used för removing nail paint, found in ordinary stores. Just be careful not to harm the outer ply with too much aceton.

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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2016, 18:21 
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I guess it's a glue-sheet like Tibhars self-adhesive film. Usage of those sheets is quite common with ox-pips.

You'll need aceton/nail remover/turpentine to get rid of it.

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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2016, 04:23 
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Red wrote:
I guess it's a glue-sheet like Tibhars self-adhesive film. Usage of those sheets is quite common with ox-pips.

You'll need aceton/nail remover/turpentine to get rid of it.


Any tips on application to avoid over doing it? What do you guys use? Paint brush, q-tip, ? Do you leave it on there so the glue can soak it in? Also what do you use to remove it once it's been applied? An eraser?

Would have understood with the ox pips. But there's sponge for what was on there and I reapplied the rubber I took off to a different blade with normal water based glue just fine. Pretty unnecessary.


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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2016, 11:46 
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Goof-off?

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Goo Gone?

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Iskandar


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PostPosted: 16 Dec 2016, 14:28 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Goof-off?

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Goo Gone?

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Iskandar


This was the only thing that would get it to budge at all. But hoooly crap. Maybe 4+ hours later I'd have it all off? Not worth it. Even then the wood would be all scratched and uneven from all the scraping. Guido is a boss though and is sending me a new one. DSM loves their customers. :up:


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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2016, 01:22 
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You mean DMS rather than DSM, right? Took me a while to figure out who "DSM" was... :lol:

Yeah, sure does sound like a glue sheet. Isn't there a brand of glue sheet that sticks with the rubber - the bond on the rubber side is a lot stronger than the bond on the blade side - allowing you to remove and re-mount rubber at will?

Turns out there are people using Goo Gone as a booster.. :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 18 Dec 2016, 03:49 
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Gewo Clean stick ,glue sheet stays on the ox pips when removing from the blade,still need to seal the blade though

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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 12:54 
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iskandar taib wrote:
You mean DMS rather than DSM, right? Took me a while to figure out who "DSM" was... :lol:

Yeah, sure does sound like a glue sheet. Isn't there a brand of glue sheet that sticks with the rubber - the bond on the rubber side is a lot stronger than the bond on the blade side - allowing you to remove and re-mount rubber at will?

Turns out there are people using Goo Gone as a booster.. :lol:

Iskandar


DMS, yes. Lol. Der-spezialistmaterials.


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PostPosted: 21 Dec 2016, 02:06 
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iskandar taib wrote:

Turns out there are people using Goo Gone as a booster.. :lol:

Iskandar


Not naming any names. Lol :angel:

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PostPosted: 08 Apr 2017, 03:36 
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By the way.. in retrospect - I wonder if a pencil (or ink) eraser might've worked. Every so often folks come to me with an old premade bat that they want me to put rubber on. These days, having learnt my lesson, I tell them they first have to take the rubbers OFF before I will put new ones on. It can literally take days if you're unlucky. Well, the last time this happened, the guy brought back the blade sans old rubber. He'd spent a couple of hours trying to remove bits of stubborn sponge (I know exactly what he was talking about.. :lol: ) he hunted around on the web for tips - and one tip was, get a big pencil eraser. Worked like a charm. I think the ink ones (which are stiffer and have sand grit embedded in them) might work better.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 28 Apr 2017, 11:30 
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Try using an old used, discarded grippy rubber, works for me.

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PostPosted: 18 Jun 2017, 17:12 
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Nail Polish Remover ( Acetone ) should work reasonably well like within 5 - 10 mins ? And the old pencil / ink eraser sounds like it would work as well. Using a sponge to soak the acetone before rubbing it on the glue is the best approach. I work it in one area at a time until the glue comes completely off.

And to significantly start affecting the top-ply you would have to literally pour like a liter of acetone and let it submerge in the stuff. So using a sponge as an applicator should prevent any ill-effects ever happening to the blade.

Just make sure you aren't rubbing hard on the actual wood and only on the glue areas else you will pick up splinters. Rub gently along the edges of the glue to speed up the glue coming off and work from there.


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