OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Hi, all.

I've designed an experimental blade, done all the mock ups, and even used a prototype version to hit some balls around. As a last step I want to attach a balsa version of this modification with glue strong enough to hold up to gameplay but with the ability to remove the balsa version and replace it with a nice hardwood version of this alternative handle in the future. Basic details: in total the modification is about an inch wide and two inches long; half of the modification sits flat against the blade, half hangs off the edge of the blade; I will be gripping the paddle via this modification holding it between my forefinger and thumb and swinging the hell out of the blade, so the glue needs to be strong!

Thanks in advance!

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User of the one of a kind "Smith" grip: here to revolutionize the game.

A nice, strong removable glue is "Duco". Also known as balsa cement. Other brands are UHU Hart, Ambroid (this is the old classic model airplane glue from the 1920s), and Sig-Ment. It's made of, er, nitrocellulose (they stuff they've taken out of balls - if you can't get Duco you might try dissolving some old balls in acetone..). The trick to making a strong joint is to "double-glue" - put a generous layer of glue on each surface, then when they're dry, add another layer on each surface, put the halves together and clamp. Dries in about 15 minutes. Do this is a well-ventilated spot, this stuff is pretty pungent (VOCs). The nice thing about this - and one reason many model plane builders still use it - is that it's removable. Just brush on some acetone, it'll soften right up and you can remove/reposition the parts. I used it exclusively to attach handle pieces when I was making blades.



https://www.amazon.com/Duco-Cement-Mult ... B0000A605H

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/271948826643

Iskandar

I'll be sure to send you some photos of the project when it's finished, so keep an eye on your inbox in the coming weeks. That was beyond useful advice!

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User of the one of a kind "Smith" grip: here to revolutionize the game.

I suppose there's also hide glue, but... Luthiers use it for the same reason - it's possible to take apart old Stradivari and whatnot by heating the joints. Lots more trouble, though.. You'd need one of these:



Supposedly all those Nittaku Acoustic and Violin blades are made using this stuff, not sure how they handle the composite material layers, though. And how they actually do the veneer gluing. Maybe use paper thin sheets of the glue and a heated press. I can't imagine someone with a brush being able to apply the glue and then sticking on another sheet of veneer before the glue hardens.

Iskandar

They claim to use hide glue? Only people I know who use hide glue are a couple guys that fix up antique furniture simply due to the fact that they realize that over the years they may need to readjust a joint. I'll stick to the Duco I picked up from Ace last night. Can't wait until after my med school docket is cleared for the day and I can get to work!

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User of the one of a kind "Smith" grip: here to revolutionize the game.

Well, Nittaku claims those blades are made using luthiers' materials and methods - "stringed instrument production technology". Some people take that to mean hide glue. They don't actually claim to use violin woods, though, except for one blade:

http://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng/nittaku-resoud

(One wonders how many of these they sell every year... )

Wonder if spruce is used in other blades - can't say I've heard of any. It isn't exactly rare, though the old growth Sitka spruce that people love to use for instrument soundboards isn't cheap these days. It's also used for building aircraft (mainly homebuilders these days).

Iskandar

At the risk of sounding like a rich person—I'm not, the possession i'm about to mention is definitely over half of my net wealth, hahahaha—I have a Steinway Grand Piano and I'm all about old-growth, close grain Sitka (used in the soundboards of my beloved better half). I suppppppoooooosssseeee that if one is going to use Sitka on a blade it is *possible* one would also use hide-glue, I just have a hard time believing that a more labor intensive process would be used in a mass produced TT blades since they don't sell for a fraction of the cost of a quality musical instrument. If I didn't have an exam Monday at 9am I'd probably already have my modification to my backup blade complete and ready to show you. Which is to say I should have updates and photos on Tuesday, haha.

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User of the one of a kind "Smith" grip: here to revolutionize the game.