OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Some rather good news. The glue sheet does indeed stick to the blade, and it DOES release easily, so removing the rubber later on will not be a problem. It does seem pretty thin, and scissors seems best for cutting when you're done (I tried a knife first, not as nice because the glue sheet kinda drags).

Anyhow... the pre-stuck-on glue sheet makes attaching the rubber to the blade a breeze. To begin with:



First step: Peel back the first 1/2 inch or so of the backing sheet. Much easier to peel the rubber off the backing sheet instead of the other way around.



This makes aligning the rubber to the blade very easy. Rub it down.



Then progressively remove the backing sheet and roll the rubber flat.



Done!



And cut...



The cutoff piece now wants to stick to everything... Save the backing sheet, might come in useful in the future for gluing OX sheets without a glue sheet.

Iskandar

Hello,

As always your knowledge is amazing and so useful. I have couple of days reading different kind of comments about this topic of glue sheets. Then I prefer to go to people that I already read before.

I have two questions:

- Do you also recommend to seal the blade before using glue sheet? And if yes, how do you do that?
- Which reference of glue sheets do you like the most?

Regards.

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My YouTube Channel: https://youtube.com/@diegox.longpips
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I think the consensus (at here on the OOAK forum) is that all blades should be varnished (though if you read some VERY old posts there were people claiming that varnishing ruined the "feel" of the blades, but I think that's been debunked through double blind testing). It's a very simple process, use a polyurethane varnish (I use oil-based, others use water-based but water-based does raise the grain on the wood) applied with a paper towel. Just wipe a layer on the blade, including the handle and all the little corners, and then take a dry paper towel and wipe as much as you can off again. And then set it aside for a day or two to cure - polyurethane reacts with the air and hardens rather than hardening due to the solvent leaving. It does cause a problem, though - the varnish inside the can will eventually form a hard layer at the top, and eventually you won't even be able to remove the lid. Very annoying when you need to varnish another blade six months down the line. To get around this, I drilled two holes at the top of the can, just below the rim, and put in two wood screws. Tilt the can so that the varnish flows into the threads. This will harden and seal the can from air. Whenever you need some varnish, remove both screws and pour a small amount into a paper cup, replace the screws, then do the can tilty thing again.

Iskandar

Thanks, I’m taking notes of all of it.

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My YouTube Channel: https://youtube.com/@diegox.longpips
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Hello everybody,

Following this, I decided to try by my own. Before I did a test using glue sheets. I think it have an advantage and it’s consistency. But the disadvantage, for me, is that I feel different in my hand and I would say even faster. Maybe it is my impression, but I didn’t feel confortable with the result.

Then I tried gluing. Some people sell it as rocket science, but honestly it is more easy that I thought. I just watched couple of videos about how to do it and everything went well, even cutting it was easy.

Here the video gluing Viper OX and Trouble Maker OX in to the blades:



Regards.

_________________
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My YouTube Channel: https://youtube.com/@diegox.longpips
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