OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Blade: Yasaka Sweeden Extra
FH: Rakza 7 1.8
BH: Mark V 1.8

I was online looking at reviews and messing around with different blade and rubber combos for a future purchase once I become a better player. Is this more for a beginner, intermediate, or more for advanced players?

Thanks!

that's a perfectly reasonable setup that a lot of players could use at any level

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Do you think here is a big difference in 1.8 or 2.0? Should I start with 1.8 then go from there?

I don't think it will be very different either way.

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Smile in the mirror. Do that every morning and you'll start to see a big difference in your life.

Yoko Ono

Go MAX immediately so you wouldn't have to buy new ones in the future.
Blade has high enough control you can use any thickness with it.

I, personally, value the feel more even if it means a less in power. And due to the necessary change in rubbers any +-80 hrs of playing time I would suggest to start with 1.8mm.

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Unless you push a lot I think you'll find it a little slow. These days what with the plastic ball and all even beginners start with 2.1 or 2.2 sponge.. thin sponge is specialist equipment.. for classic chopping, blocking, very close to the table play, for use with Reimpact blades, etc.

Iskandar

Classification of combi in table tennis is by play style, not by skill level, so,

the notion of beginner combi just means the cheaper alternative to the premium rubber. It can also means all rounder combi.

The notion of combi upgrade means switching to better fit combi to the player play style.

So, what is your play style?





Sent from my i5E using Tapatalk

I recommend using max thickness on the forehand side because it's a more powerful stroke and you don't want the sponge to bottom out.

I'd suggest that you don't go with max at this stage. if you are a developing player, you won't gain much out of a faster rubber as you won't need absolute power to win points against your level of opponent. Using a too fast rubber however could have you hitting long a lot and thereby compromising your stroke.

I had a hit the other day with a Euro non-tensor in 1.7mm (Andro shifter) and it was no problems to loop and do all the shots on an ALL+ blade like your Sweden Extra. Having said that I had a go with a Stiga Allround classic with Mark V in 2.0mm and found it very slow.

If i were you I'd go no more than 2.0mm with the Rakza 7 as I think max might (or might not) be too fast. But it won't be too slow if going 1.8 or 2.0.

Mark V however might be too slow in 1.8mm so I'd just say go 2.0mm in both.

Play with those rubbers for a year and if you have practiced well and improved, reward yourself at that point with faster rubbers if you feel you need it.

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Donic Waldner Senso V1,FH Baracuda Big Slam 2.0mm ,BH Victas Triple Regular 2.0mm

GO MAX IMMEDIATELY but choose a better more controllable rubber like H3 or Globe 999.

Don't listen to the bullsht "Ugh itch such a dead rubbah" "advice" that people give. There are 500 million 5 year olds in China with Globe 999s and 729Fx both sides that beat the "Advanced" forum members clean 4-0.

You know it's not a bad idea to start with some real cheap chinese gear early on.

I would argue that Palio CJ8000 + a wood blade is ideal for a beginner. Can be had for $20ish USD.

As usual on TT forums, I like to say how bad mark V is. I'll do it again...many many cheap chinese rubbers outperform it on pretty much every offensive task these days.

This is true but irrelevant. These kids could beat us using a teaspoon. By the time they are 5 years old they have got a couple of years intensive professional coaching under their belt. Those rubbers are also very affordable.

I do agree though that those rubbers are likely fine for a beginner and if getting a Chinese rubber, I'd suggest max myself. The OP was talking a tensor though which in that case I'd still stay away from Max.

A club member came out with a new bat during the week. Appelgren with 1.8mm 729 Cream Transcend and our best player was looping them like rockets.

My point is that your blade is sensible so don't get caught up to much on rubber choice. Any of the suggestions here would be fine for a beginner/improving player.

Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

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Donic Waldner Senso V1,FH Baracuda Big Slam 2.0mm ,BH Victas Triple Regular 2.0mm

He should listen to the dead rubber advice. I can beat many players with Chinese rubbers but I don't like the effort that I expend playing with them. For some people, they don't like the catapult that European sensors provide and want more linearity. I have had a few people who have only played with H3 all their career use a hard tensor like OVA and be pleasantly surprised that such things exist for their offense. In the end, you learn from experience, not ideology.

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"We don't rise to the level of our expectations, we fall to the level of our training" - Archilochus

729FX, sure. 999 IS a bit too slow for a lot of people. It's great as an emergency rubber, though - it works when it's humid and nothing else will.

Iskandar