OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Tibhar Nimbus Sound is very soft as well, IMO, too soft! Nimbus Soft is OK.

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Blade-Yasaka Ma LIn Extra Offensive
FH- Palio Blitz
BH-Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft

When you say soft, medium, or hard rubber are you talking about the sponge only, or are you talking about the soft or hard feel you get from the whole rubber (top sheet + sponge )??

Is there a good source that categorizes Tensor rubbers as soft, ,medium, or hard?

TIA

Generally by "hard" or "soft" we are talking about the overall feel of the rubber, and that comes from both topsheet and sponge. In older Tensors, the feel came more from the sponge I think; the newer ones have a more solid topsheet which changes the way they feel compared to the earlier versions. This makes them more durable, but speaking for myself, I don't like the feel so much.

Of course, it is hard to generalize about Tensors, since they now come in so many flavors. My favorite, Donic JO Gold, is hard, fast, low-throw, and a little bit less spinny than some others. I play well with it, so don't feel like changing (even if the stuff is expensive and short-lived). Something like F1 from Donic is much softer, a little spinnier, and it has a much higher throw (which means that for any given racket angle, the ball tends to go higher). To me, rubbers like F2 and F3 (also from Donic) are so soft they feel like mush (on a Butterfly Viscaria). I have never tried any of the other Tensors from Joola, Tibhar, Andro, etc. (or for that matter, the JP Sonex series from Donic). At this point, the Tensor product line is huge. It would cost a fortune to become thoroughly familiar with all of it.

All of this is affected by what kind of blade you put it on. As Martin said, as a rule, put harder rubbers on softer blades, and vice versa.

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Butterfly Viscaria Black tag
2.2 mm Nexy Karis M on FH and BH

harder rubbers on softer blades
higher-dynamic rubbers on stiffer blades
faster rubbers on slower blades

for example i tried nimbus on OC. didnt work. too fast, too much dynamics.

for example tenergy is hard, low-dynamic and medium fast. so it would fit a blade which is soft and elastic. hinoki is soft and elastic.

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Damn!! Just when I thought I understood the magic rule as someone else posted it a while ago:

"Soft rubbers are fit on OFF blades, medium rubbers are fit on ALL blades, and hard rubbers are fit on DEF Blades. When you put a soft rubber on a ALL or DEF blade you will have to much catapult and too little control. Contrary with hard rubbers on fast blade you get great control but too little speed and catapult."

Now you say to put "higher-dynamic rubbers on stiffer blades and faster rubbers on slower blades"?

So, what is the difference between higher dynamic rubbers and fast rubbers?

Also, isn't a soft rubber usually a fast rubber? If so, per the magic rule, you would not want to use it with an slower blade, right?

What am I missing here? Please help!

Thanks all.

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If you want to use more sponge then : hard + hard and soft + soft . If you want brush looping then hard+soft .


"Soft rubbers are fit on OFF blades, medium rubbers are fit on ALL blades, and hard rubbers are fit on DEF Blades. When you put a soft rubber on a ALL or DEF blade you will have to much catapult and too little control. Contrary with hard rubbers on fast blade you get great control but too little speed and catapult."

- this is non-sense

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Xiom Strato , St
FH: DHS H3 prov, max
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 05FX, max

Try to help here BL: A dynamic rubber is more like a tensor or high tension rubber that has high catapult effect. This is what should go with stiffer blade. Stiffer blade doesn't really fit in the range of Fast-All-Slow. A stiff blade could be any speed, its just stiff and not flexy. 7 ply blades are often stiff for example, but could be slow or medium. Can't think of a fast 7 ply, but depends on the wood type.

Really what you need to think about is how to balance the rubber characteristics with the blade characteristics. Think of it in terms like +/ 0/- where + is fast, 0 is medium and - is slow.

If a rubber is + then a blade should be - to come back to zero

If a rubber is - then a blade should be + to come to 0.

A 0 rubber is good on a 0 blade as its all balanced.

A soft rubber is not usually a fast rubber, more likely slow.

A hard rubber is normally fast.

A hard and inelastic blade as I said is good with a softer rubber or a more dynamic rubber. But it really depends on what you are seeking.

Tango is a fairly soft rubber, but it is pretty dynamic. My Hurricane King is a hard blade but is not all that stiff. However it is stiff enough to take advantage of Tango's properties for me to love the way they work together. Its a bit tricky and its hit and miss. That's why the EJ virus is so rampant because you can only have these rules generally and then you just need to try putting stuff together and see how they work for you.

I guess you're probably more confused than ever now right?

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I'm always in the dark, but the Dark sheds lights upon everything!! Beauty is only pimple deep! Beauty is in the eye of the pipholder!
S/U 1: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Andro Rasant 2.1 . BH Red Tibhar Grass Dtecs
S/U 2: Blade: Bty Gergely . FH Black Hexer+ 2.1 . BH Red GD Talon
S/U 3: Blade: Bty Gergely . No rubbers...thinking of adding Red Dtecs and Black Rasant
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putting a tensor like Nimbus Soft or even a non-tensor like LKT XT on a stiff Primorac Carbon -like blade will result an incontrolable , very fast ,unspinny setup

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Xiom Strato , St
FH: DHS H3 prov, max
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 05FX, max

Thanks for the education, and I give up!. I should have known that proper TT equipment selection is mostly trial and error and that it costs a fortune.

Since I am not wealthy and I only have another 50 years or so, left to play TT, I can only ask for specific advise:

My footwork stinks so I don't need to loop or defend from mid distance or further away. I need a setup that will allow me to push and block with lots of control but also do occasional close-to-the-table loops and kills.

Does such a rubber exist, or is this the perfect rubber that everyone is looking for? Please let me know if you know any rubbers that will help me with my style (or lack thereof) and what would be a good blade for it.

Thanks a million for any feedback!

Lou

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Yeap , this rubber exists - it is marvelous

http://oneofakindtrading.com.au/Shop/pr ... cts_id=526

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Xiom Strato , St
FH: DHS H3 prov, max
BH: Butterfly Tenergy 05FX, max

Chop and Drive

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Butterfly Viscaria Black tag
2.2 mm Nexy Karis M on FH and BH

Hi there, sorry to resurrect this after 8 years but I'm getting back in the game just now. About your statement: "A hard and inelastic blade as I said is good with a softer rubber or a more dynamic rubber", I remember playing with a thin, hard, blade (5mm thick total, 5 layers: birch - carbon - cypress - carbon - birch) that looped very well with Thor rubbers both sides. I characterize this combination as a hard/fast rubber on a hard blade that was also flexible because it was thin. Would you agree? I tried the same Thor rubber on a very thick, ALL blade and it had much less dwell time and would not loop nearly as well. Does this make sense to you?

TIA.

What do you expect from something named after a cloud?

I find it interesting that, in the past couple weeks, several years-old threads have been resurrected, and how different thinking was just a few years ago.



My answer to this is there's a million combinations that'll work just fine. A $7 Sanwei M8 blade with a pair of sheets of Batwings (total cost, say $18 including shipping) will work as well as something costing ten times as much, unless you're rated, say, 1900 or so. There ISN'T a magic combo that will mysteriously add 200 points to your rating, though there are plenty that will be way too fast.

Iskandar

Hey Iskandar, thanks for replying to my 9-year old post, but I was hoping to get feedback on my more recent post. In general terms, it seems to me that a thin blade would be more flexible (less stiff) than a thicker blade with the same wood/layer composition. If you agree then would the more flexible, thinner blade provide increased dwell time compared to the thicker blade? If so, would this add some control when looping with a hard-sponge, fast, rubber? I am sure I am oversimplifying the subject but intuitively that seems right to me. TIA again.

We've been having a lot of discussions in the last year on "stiffness" - I am of the opinion that it's an illusion. Blades don't flex, not in the sense of, say, a springboard. They're just too plain stiff, given the magnitude of the forces on them when they impact a ball. Not only that, they're a great deal harder and stiffer than the very deformable rubber attached to their surfaces. If there is any flexing, it's a matter of micrometers. You're also more likely to have local deformation (similar to a drumskin) than general longitudinal flexing.

An experiment worth trying: clamp a blade's handle to a table so that the blade projects out over the floor. Now stand progressively greater weights (perhaps as simple as bottles of water) on the tip of the blade to try to make it bend. You can observe how much it bends by sighting down the blade against the background. How much weight can you add to the blade before it breaks at the neck, and how much flexing will you see before this happens? Note that most of the flex will actually be at the neck (where the handle ends), since a narrow beam is going to flex more than a wide one, and that the moment arm is longest with this point as the pivot.

What I think people perceive as "flex" isn't flex at all, it's something to do with vibrations. The same with "hard" and "soft" blades - a "soft" blade is simply one that has lower frequency vibrations. It is quite interesting to compare discussions from 9 years ago to those we see today - there isn't nearly as much talk of "flex" and "dwell time" as there used to be.

Iskandar