OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Have a bit of an unusual question .. so during one of my competition matches last night someone suddenly walked right across in front of me as I was swinging, and I ended up snapping the blade at the neck. The rubbers and blade were both relatively new (as in I've only played with them maybe half a dozen times total).

I have a backup blade with the same configuration but old rubbers that need replacing (DHS Power G7 blade, and DHS G555 and Hurricane III Neo rubbers). I already had new rubbers ready to replace them, but have since ordered a new PG7 blade and will apply the new rubbers to that one. The question is, is it easy (and worth it?) to get the rubbers off the broken blade and reapply them to the backup blade? Any particular tips for getting them off non destructively?

If they were glued with proper table tennis glue, they should peel off relatively easily. Just start lifting the rubbers gently from a corner, and do it bit by bit, because sometimes the rubber can tear, you can pull off fibres from the blade (which might not matter if the blade is broken).
If the old glue peels off easily, then peel it all off. If not, just pull off any solid bits that stick out, till you get a smooth surface, then re-glue onto the new blade as usual.

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The "backup" might be a DHS premade. Hopefully they used the proper sort of glue to put the rubbers on, otherwise you're in for a frustrating time...

Iskandar

I doubt that it's a pre-made with a PG7 blade. But I had a DHS 4002 pre-made, and the rubbers came off that very easily.

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Well the good news is the first phase went without a hitch - managed to peel the rubbers off the broken blade with no issue. So should be relatively easy to do the same to the blade with old rubbers, reseal just to make sure, then glue the newer rubbers back on. Will give that a go over the weekend when I have a bit more time (and waiting on edge tape to arrive, hopefully it will by then)

For me the hardest bit is to get the rubber lined up correctly when gluing. Often I end up with a 1mm overlap on one side and a 1mm piece of wood showing on the other.

I'd suggest maybe lining it up first with no glue and putting a small mark with pen on both rubber and handle so you can get it lined up better.

Sent from my SM-T210 using Tapatalk

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Donic Waldner Senso V1,FH Baracuda Big Slam 2.0mm ,BH Victas Triple Regular 2.0mm

That’s usually what I do, mark the bottom of the rubber and top of handle and line them up before glueing. Use a pencil on the handle if you don’t want it permanently marked. Whilst it doesn’t bother me personally, ink rubs off the rubber but stays in the wood.

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