OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Do they provide their own edgetape or do I need to purchase one with the order for them to put it on?

Thanks
Ayon

Stiga ALL Classic. The regular one. Fit that with 2.0 Mark V on both sides and sorted. It's a great starter which can lead you to advance and will also allow you to be a little more confident in deciding what you want next. This setup is a jack of all trades master of none.
I would personally recommend to get it all from a shop and have it assembled

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Ion, certain water based glues are very adhesive and makes it hard to remove rubber.

If you glue the blade, you will not ruin it. It's easy. I was worried too at first. Also there are tutorials on Youtube and various table tennis stores/sites.

My recommendation: Use water based glue (WBG) on the sponge of the rubber, and rubber cement on the blade. Let both dry completely then assemble rubber to blade. RC is technically illegal in TT as it is a VOC glue, but honestly it doesn't affect anything and unless you are pro-level nobody is going to test your racket for VOCs. (There used to be a thing called speed glue and that's why VOCs are banned). Many people use RC and really it's a non-issue.

If you decide to use WBG on both wood and sponge, do not use the Xiom WBG. It's almost impossible to remove the rubber without damage. Use Butterfly Freechalk or Tear Mender (google those) as they both remove fine without damage. Tear mender is less expensive and just as good as any TT glue, but it isn't specifically meant for TT.

Also, buy sealant for your blade.

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You can get some spin with killerspin paddles but not worth it, you can get a much better paddle for same price. At least for me, the paddles I find in sports stores which are stiga and killerspin, you'd have to spend like 100 dollars to get a paddle that is decent. And you can get a better paddle for 20 dollars online with a 729 paddle for example. But the stiga and killerspin paddles are usually liked more by people who play recreationally or who play tennis strokes, they are less affected by spin but you won't be able to serve spinny or hit really fast spinny balls with them.

I have ordered from tabletennis11
Their assembly service is great.
They use water-based glue, and they put edge tape on for you.
It was very easy to peel when I changed my rubber.

Cutting rubber yourself, especially the first time, is an exhaustive process. Just let the shop do the job. I love how clean the shop cut the rubber.

I think you have a solid setup but for that I personally cannot play with anything less thick than 2.0mm. If you're fine with it go fot it.

depends on the rubber and blade. Also depends on the glue they use at the time they assemble.

I had to essentially destroy FL3 and Vega Europe. And that was put together by TT11. I love TT11, but this can happen with any retailer that assembles (except zeropong, they only use RC for this very reason). I have also had to destroy a Omega IV assembled by them. I also had great results. It really just depends. And this is true of all retailers.

Eventually, you will need to buy replacement rubbers and will have to assemble glue it yourself...may as well learn.

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I just shot TT11 an email asking them if they are willing to use Falco WG for my order. I know that they use Donic Formula First glue and I read on another thread here that it is really difficult to get it off later. haggisv - Any comment?

Mimobrok - So would 2.0mm rubber suit me better to 1.8mm? Or is it all about personal preference? I don't want to have a setup that is easy to adjust to in the beginning but limits my game as I progress. Would like to keep the same setup for as long as possible.

Thanks
Ayon

It's personal preference but seeing that you're already playing with 1.8 a step up to 2.0 wouldn't be uncontrollable. You are already getting an allround blade and a not-so-fast rubber.

Another reason to step up to 2.0 is that many rubbers are not offered at 1.8 thickness and one day you'll have to move up for more spin and speed anyway. The question is when do you want to make that change?

From your description that you want to keep using the racket for a long time, if I were you I would go with thicker from the start. My first racket was an off- blade with 2.0 Mark V and I have no problem adjusting to it coming from a premade.

I'm not a beginner... but now the season has ended, and my life circumstances have changed such that I can't commit to league or tournament play over the summer, I'm going back to basics, and have just bought myself a Donic Appelgren Allplay blade, with 2 x 2.1mm Donic Bluestorm Z2. This is literally the first time I have owned a "beginner setup". I've played with LP on my BH for most of my playing life, and a mixture of SP and inverted on my FH. I've also never owned a 'classic allround blade' before... I've used slow, over-sized defender's blades, and fast attacking blades.

The blade I selected, and that Cobalt often recommends, is a very well-regarded all-round control blade. I've been delighted with it so far.

Personally I'd go with a modern, current generation Tensor from the get-go. On a sensible blade it won't be massively faster than a "classic" rubber, and you'll be using what you'll probably end up using after 6 months to a year. Go for the thinnest that's offered, which is usually around 2.1mm. Equipment is vastly over-thought, and its impact on your play will be a tiny fraction compared to your physique, fitness, footwork, relaxation, eyesight, lighting, humidity, ball and table quality and mood.

As for which one to use, they're basically almost identical, made in the same factory, with the same materials, to the same spec, with the same quality contol, just a slightly different sponge, and brand name. I went with Donic because I get a good price on Donic through a sponsorship arrangement.

Once you've got a good quality all-round blade, and current genersation rubbers, in not too thick form, just get out and practice control shots FH and BH. Look to be able to keep the ball on the table and place it in a consistent area, with good form, and a relaxed body.

Take your time! And have fun!

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Welcome to the Appelgren club. Got a nice feel to it hasn't it.

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I play with a Yasaka Sweden Classic. Love it! Very similar feel to the Appelgren I believe! Might get myself an Appelgren too one day Certainly not an EJ

DHS No.15 liquid glue, white colored.
China National Team is now consuming this product a lot.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/New-Dhs ... 50638.html

Be happy.

I see no reason not to use rubber cement (the abovementioned RC - I use Elmer's Rubber Cement but Best Test is supposedly better) on both the rubber and the blade. It's a LOT easier to use, no really long waits for the stuff to dry, and no OH HECK moments when you accidentally touch the rubber and a small part of the layer peels off... Rubber cement is NOT illegal to use - what IS illegal is failing the VOC test. Which your racket will pass anyway if you wait a few days before testing. Not that many of us would ever have to have our rackets tested, ever.

As far as the thickness of the sponge - I don't think there's any reason for beginners not to start with max sponge (usually 2.2mm). In the old days when the ball was smaller, yes, beginners started with 1.5mm sponge, and most serious players never went beyond 2.0mm. These days the ball is bigger, not to mention it's got even bigger very recently. A lot of rubber are ONLY available in 2.2mm sponge.

Suggested blade?

Iskandar

I know this is going to be a very unpopular opinion but buying a cheap premade bat (with grippy rubber/and sponge) for a beginner isn't the worst course of action.
It'll wear out in a few months and you can decide then on what to buy and have a little more understanding of your own game.

There is another type of beginner, the type who will get training and is serious about the sport. For that beginner I recommend asking the coach or going with some slower rubber(again I would ask the coach: soft euro or hard chinese rubber?) and a wood blade. Pretty much every company makes this equipment on the cheaper side but is good enough to progress with for 1-2 years.

One thing that I have learned recently is that "slow" equipment can become too fast if you improve your technique. You may find yourself returning to your beginner setup from time to time as you work on technique. Many players with poor technique go with the fastest equipment to try and get extra speed. You'll see these heavy hard blades with very bouncy rubbers.

I suppose a Sardius with two sheets of Tenergy 05 would be worse than a bad premade..

CHEAP premades of the right sort are actually quite good. You know, like this one:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SANWEI- ... 74001.html

Should be better for the beginner than, say, this very expensive one:

https://www.killerspin.com/collections/ ... ed-edition

Iskandar