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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2018, 05:22 
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PostPosted: 12 Apr 2018, 13:17 
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Blade: Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon
FH: 729 08
BH: Battle 2
I appreciate your evaluation of the rubber but u play european style looping with a chinese style rubber made by a japanese company.I doubt ur evaluation is even complete.For chinese rubbers u need to bend ur back rotate ur hip and hit with force from the ground which i hardly see in ur evaluation.FYI i play with 729 08 on fh and battle 1 on bh.Also chinese rubbers are designed not to engage in counterlooping but to finish them asap.I am still awaiting this rubber evaluation by a chinese style player on a non balsa blade as balsa blade not good for chinese style hard rubbers.


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PostPosted: 15 Apr 2018, 18:34 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
anand0077 wrote:
I appreciate your evaluation of the rubber but u play european style looping with a chinese style rubber made by a japanese company.I doubt ur evaluation is even complete.For chinese rubbers u need to bend ur back rotate ur hip and hit with force from the ground which i hardly see in ur evaluation.FYI i play with 729 08 on fh and battle 1 on bh.Also chinese rubbers are designed not to engage in counterlooping but to finish them asap.I am still awaiting this rubber evaluation by a chinese style player on a non balsa blade as balsa blade not good for chinese style hard rubbers.


As an Indian using Chinese penhold on a Yasaka Battle Balsa blade with Yasaka Shining Dragon, ALTS review is perfectly fine from his video and his style. Simply becos I am indian doesn't mean I can't play a Chinese style game :lol: I hope you don't think Chinese DNA is needed for a Chinese wood or rubber or coach or player or parents or technique or something ! :lol:

I have many Balsa blades with very hard Chinese rubbers and I am perfectly capable of playing Chinese penhold. It is all about player, technique and how equipment all can combine for the "perfect" game.

So less biased opinions like Balsa blade doesn't work with hard Chinese rubbers or something please and more objective request like you want review of YSD on a hard Chinese blade or something.

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__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 15 Apr 2018, 18:53 
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I think you missed the point of his post...

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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 10:27 
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Yeah :-P Sometimes I get carried away off-topic :-D But I do have a DHS PG9 blade which is I think is a hard blade. Perhaps I should put the old YSD sheets on that and post on how it plays.

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__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 12:12 
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Blade: Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon
FH: 729 08
BH: Battle 2
Man ii ur post is funny i will tell you the differences all ur chinese rubbers u play with are not hard rubbers they are around a degree of hardness of 6/10.U can play those rubbers easily on balsa blades.729 08 and battle 2 are around 8.5/10 in hardness there is a significant difference in playing with a hardness of 6 and 8.5 i mean very very significant, most penholders have a natural advantage to loop and smash the ball by their grip compared to shakehand.
I had yasaka battle plus blade with balsa core and Scandinavian pine outerply ,it played great with mxp and t05 amazing but close to net it was very difficult
To prove my point i would recommend you to put h3neo on battle balsa on fh and skyline 3 neo on bh (or to make it more cost conscious buy 729 08 which is around 10 dollars and put it on any of your balsa blades and try to loop i mean competitive looping,dont try too much or else u will get hurt.U will have such a hard time to loop just one feet from the table and even on the table u will loop and the ball will either go slow or will drop so slow that ur opponent will punch it easily.
I am an ex professional cricket player used to be allrounder and have significant shoulder and quad strength to pound the ball like a pro.I am also from India.
I have 2 balsa blades donier balsa plus (balsa core of 5.5) and donier balsa carbon (balsa core of 4mm).I played h3neo on fh and skyline 3 neo on bh,i played a 1900 usatt player and lost like 11-3 11-4 11-5 straight.I had significant issues,i will explain why balsa is a soft rigid and less flex wood not hard wood,it can rebound great due to ur opponents energy in the shot but when u want to use hard rubber and create the power,u might have the power but the balsa wood cant engage the hard sponge due to loss of energy due to lack of flex and it being soft. hard rubber means anything after 7 degree of hardness as per revspin.net.
Past forward after 2 weeks read a article how chinese prepare their blades, placed 4 coats of polyurethane on ymlsc blade with hardness of 5 and rigidness of 4.the blade became slightly harder but didnot loose its flex at all. contd


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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 13:13 
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Blade: Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon
FH: 729 08
BH: Battle 2
Why i did that i wanted to really try what the chinese do so how i lacquered this blades is with miniwax oil which integrates into the wood top layers and makes it waterproof and hard without any loss of flex.With such blades the hard top layer engages the sponge and the flex amplifies the speed of the shot and the ball goes like a bullet

I played the same player after few weeks with this blade and 729 08 on fh and battle 1 on bh i beat him this time in five sets
he took the first two 11-9 11-8 i took the next three 11-7 11-8 16-14 I was amazed at the performance of the looping,i performed the exact way by taking the forehand vow he had such a hard time blocking it.I played him the next week again the
same result and he was playing on alc timo boll with to5 on fh and bh brand new rubbers.my problem is fitness with legs as i am recovering from an injury.

This way of lacquering also compensates a lot while blocking,ideally without lacquering this blade is not good for blocking but after lacquering it works like a charm.
credit for this goes to tommy zai on mytabletennis.net who has laid instructions how to do it

My next experimentation was with yeop7 blade put 729 08 on fh and rakza 7 on bh i was able to loop the ball but it was slow due to lack of flex in the blade(stiffness of 6.5 and hardness of 7.5).With this blade u dont need lacquering as the outer layer is hard already but this blades flex is half of the other blade so there is no amplification of the shot and ball was going so slow.

Next experimentation was with 729 bomb one of the best and cheapest blades due to balsa and cork in it.stiffness of 5.1 and hardness of 6.this is a very ideal blade for chinese rubbers as it has the ideal amount of flex and the top layer is hard too to
engage the sponge.I put battle 2 on fh and bh this rubber behaved so great on this blade i was shocked then i realised why the chinese use hard sponge,i defeated a player ranked 300 points higher than me 3 sets to 0 whom i had tried defeating for last one year.It was so good close to net and great looping away from table but the handle was not good so i trimmed it by sanding and i use it as my second back up blade.U put h3neo on this blade and skyline 3 neo on this blade and u should feel the performance its amazing in chops,loops and top spins.With 729 bomb i placed only 2 layers of lacquering it was more than enough.If this blade had a stiga infinity handle vow it would be my primary blade. ...contd


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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 13:39 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
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BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
Hahaha :-) Alright dude I understand your experience is totally different from mine. All the more to share what we learn. I notice you also went with the 729 Bomb blade. How is the top-ply hard for you ? Mine is very soft almost splintery kind of surface which I sealed with TSP blade coat.

729 Bomb is one of the most flexible and softest full feeling blade I have used so far. Almost feels like I could go for cut-defense and modern defence attacking styles all with the same blade.

Does lacquering change the blade so much that you can get carbon layer like speeds ? But still have the wood blade feeling ? Also please share where you get the miniwax oil ? Do you apply with a paintbrush or with sponge ? How long to dry it out ? Does it need special care ? It won't warp the wood right ? Does the dwell or ball contact feel change to something like a carbon blade ? Would you say the blade like 729 Bomb goes from Off- to say Off++ ? :-)

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__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 13:45 
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Blade: Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon
FH: 729 08
BH: Battle 2
Problem is during my search of ideal blades i have the following blades
donier balsa plus 68 gms
donier balsa carbon 73 gm
yasaka ma lin soft carbon 2 blades with 729 08 on fh and battle1 on bh
yeop7 2 blades with battle 2 on fh and rakza 7 on bh
729 bomb 2 blades with battle 2 on fh and bh

My plan is to use the ymlsc blade which is my primary blade i want to play with this as i am playing great with this and am able to loop backspin of 9/10 on newgy robot very easily with not much effort.this weighs around 187gm
My back up blade is yeop7 with battle 2 on fh and rakza 7 on bh, i can bend and still loop with this and rakza 7 has great grip for bh(but heavy) this weighs around 190 gms

Battle 2 performs great on yeo p7 as it is slightly softer compared to 729 08(pretuned version).If the pretuned is 8.5 then i feel that 729 08 without tune hardness is around 9.5 to 10.729 08 pretuned doesnot perform as good as compared to battle 2 on the same blade due to the hardness.

so if u want to still use chinese rubbers on fh with such blade u need to go with battle 2 or any rubber with hardness of 7.5 to 8 they work good.Battle 2 worked great when i used it on the ymlsc blade too so the chineses are correct in their evaluation of the blade and assessment.

This is exactly why i requested to use it on a nonbalsa and then compare the performance,my recommendation is if u have 2 sheets use one on 729 bomb and another one on dhs pg9 and compare the performance.I wanted to see if they perform

People hold dhs in high regard compared to 729 but i feel 729 makes higher quality rubbers than DHS my battle 2 on yeop7 are 6 months old and they still perform great with the blade.
Battle 2 is boosted with 3 layers of xtreme booster which doesnot increase the total thickness and rubber plays darn good only problem with this is looping far off from the table as the ball tends to overshoot a lot.
72908 is already pretuned and weighs49 gm so no need of boosting it plays great on ymlsc ,close to net awesome,return serves awesome ,counter loops with deep chops and great spin on serving.Looping away from table is so good with this i was amazed this old rubber very grippy with plastic balls and it adds a lot of side spin to loops and makes playing with long pips so easy.
battle 2 costs about 23 dollars and 729 08 is 12 dollars YSD in 40 dollars.If the YSD behaves like chinese rubbers on non balsa blade then i was planning to buy and put it on yeop7 blade as it is 6 to 7 gms lighter than battle 2.


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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 14:01 
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Blade: Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon
FH: 729 08
BH: Battle 2
http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_po ... de-sealing

go to this link and read what tommy zai says he is right on money ,i if flexible blade i mean stiffness of 4 then can use 4 layers
what i did is buy this from home depot cost 14 dollars can last for my life time,also if u lacquer with this once done its for life time u never have to repeat it again.

https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/cl ... lyurethane

use a mask while applying or do it outdoors so that u dont inhale it is cancerous so be carefull only good thing is u do it once and please keep pregnant females and children away from it as it has voc in it.once done after so many layers i placed 4 layers on ymlsc and 2 layers on 729 bomb,none on yeop7 as it is hard already.Let the blade dry for few day as the oil integrates into the wood toplayer and makes it waterproof.

U can use a piece of old cloth /kitchen tissue,first clean the blade surface and then dip the cloth in oil and rub it into the wood over a period of one minute evenly across and repeat it on other side and let it dry.

effect of 2 layers on 729 bomb crisp blocking with minimal increase in strength of the shot and no loss in flex 729 bomb has cork in it although top layer is very fragile u use a chinese rubber like h3neo hardness of 7.5 the cork engages it and rubber comes to life.

On ymlsc 4 layers no effect on flex due to the wood used but blocks are tremendous and speed of blocks is great and the speed on forehand is deadly this blade is off- i think the lacquering has made it off now and it works like a charm.I am happy with my experimentation atleast i got the blade i wanted.My only other desire is to have the stiga short master flared handles on all my blades as that handle is so darn good for fh and bh.

Anybody has any idea where we can get only the handles


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PostPosted: 16 Apr 2018, 14:16 
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Blade: Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon
FH: 729 08
BH: Battle 2
if u apply too much then u will need to sand with fine grit paper to remove it,
this miniwax comes in 2 version oil based and acrylic based,dont use the acrylic one as it never penetrates the wood it forms a layer on the wood top surface that might affect the sponge binding but the oil based one does not form a top layer it sinks into the wood and does not warp the wood at all.If ur top surface is fragile u need to use it to keep it strong.

The dwell time and ball contact touch may be affected but its not so significant i did not appreciate anything at all with 4 layers on ymlsc and 2 layers on 729 bomb.I have'nt felt any difference in touch in any of the blades as much.u can also apply it to the
handle to prevent moisture going deep into the blade and increasing its weight.

All chinese players use this trick as it keeps the flex intact for great looping look at their blades all of their hardness and stiffness lie between 5 to 6 so they can use the above trick.

Another great rubber new one by dhs is dhs8 hard but its way heavy about 53 gm cut size its way too heavy for me.But i played with dhs 8 mid hard its a very good rubber for bh as it has enough speed in it and is way more soft sponge

I have another spare yeo p7 blade with faster 729 rubber on it hardness of 6.4 its darn good on this blade for looping away from table.
What i learnt from this is more flexible the blade harder the sponge u can use effectively (7 to 9),less flexible the blade use a chinese rubber from softer sponge of 5 to 6.


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PostPosted: 18 Apr 2018, 13:40 
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Blade: Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon
FH: 729 08
BH: Battle 2
ok man iii i did this

I opened my Donier balsa plus blade with balsa core of 5.5 mm which had razka 7 on fh and rakza 7 soft on bh,i removed the
rakza 7 soft and placed my 729 faster felghum (boosted with 3 layers of xtreme booster)2.2 mm.729 faster comes only in 2mm or 2.2mm.Its hardness is 6.6 after boosting it might be around 6.Blade is 67 gm and total weight was 173 gms.This is a off plus blade.
Pros:
Serves top notch with great spin and touch ,also able to return spinny serves easily.
looping close over the table close is average difficulty and can be done.
Looping far away from the table is more easier than i thought and ball has terrible spin for ur opponent
Back hand was swift and great and was able to do so many loops on bh with this rubber it has terrible spin and quickness none were returned back correctly.
Chops were great and close to net had to adjust a bit ,flat shots were off mark due to new blade and needs some adjustment.
Also i agree with u no table tennis elbow pain with this blade very light and easy to manuevre
Blocks are phenomenal and very quick.

cons:
Problem is looping deep chops u will need to be quick move and loop also as there is minimal flex lot of effort needed to play the shot i mean to get the side spine.Others looping are ok
I feel when u hit the ball in top spins and loops opponents are easily able to return due to lack of momentum with balsa blades
Blade is hard and stiff with minimal flex,so ur physical effort will need to be optimum

My review was way short for a span of 45 minutes played with a short pip and a long pip player defeated both of them.But my evaluation was post 12hrs work.I will be off for the next 7 days and will try to loop deep chops on ipong with back spin of 6 then 5 and then 4,also the topspin will try to loop them and see how it works.

If i didn't have rakza 7 on bh i would put 729 faster 2.2mm on fh and 2 mm on bh and would not boost them as this blade engages the sponge very easily.

I agree with you that medium Chinese hard rubbers i mean anything less than 6.5 hardness on revspin will work great on the Balsa blades.Any chinese rubber more than 7 hardness is a head hill task for players.

I am playing in a local tournament this weekend so bit hesitating to use this for it, as i will be using the ymlsc with 729 08 on fh and battle 1 on bh.Meanwhile next days this blade will bear my experiment :Chop: :topspin: :Defense: :headbang: :rock: :rock: 8) 8)


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PostPosted: 18 Apr 2018, 15:06 
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anand0077 wrote:
anything less than 6.5 hardness on revspin

I would not use that as a reference, since it's not based on measurements, but only on opinions....and of course most people know very little about equipment, and would not even know if their rubber is hard or soft.

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PostPosted: 19 Apr 2018, 02:23 
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Blade: Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon
FH: 729 08
BH: Battle 2
Hi Haggisv had a question unsure whether any answers present.

Why do they use a single ply thick of balsa core which is more soft and rigid compared to multiple thin plies which can also be used,if multiple plies used it adds some degree of flex to the blade as the rigidity is broken.

also with regard to hardness i like the data from revspin as most of the people who write are not pro and we get a average review of the rubbers which acts like a double blind controlled study and easy for amateur players to follow it,This is my opinion

I have played with h3neo on the fh and skyline 3 neo on bh on donier balsa plus,h3neo is close to 7.5 to 8 and skyline 3 neo around 7.5 after playing with this set up i had to put lot of effort into the shots and thats when i got the table tennis elbow.

Also i am going to use ipong and try this blade with 729 faster today and will report the results.


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PostPosted: 19 Apr 2018, 14:30 
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Blade: Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon
FH: 729 08
BH: Battle 2
Blade DONIER BALSA PLUS OFF+
FH 729 FASTER 1
BH RAKZA 7
WT 173 GM WITH GRIP AND SIDE TAPE
Experiment time about 90 minutes with ipong v 300 feb 2017 model,after a good sleep and rest
LOOPING: close to table with ipong back spin 5/6 very difficult to do with chinese method due to no flex but european loop can be done with effort,out of 10 balls european way was 8/10 on table and chinese was 3/10 as the ball was going into net or out of the table.with same effort on ymlsc was able to put 8/10(chinsese) on table missed one clipped the top of net and one went slightly over the edge of the table,also european loops not so deadly compared to the chinese loops i am putting probably due to the rotational spin on the ball along with speed,both rubbers were boosted,

This is my opinion flex blades have a trampoline like effect and give a margin of safety while looping compared to hard blades,Hard blades give great control in blocking which can be achieved with flex blades with extra lacquering with miniwax,also flex blades easier to initiate loop in deep back spin chops compared to hard blades.

Balsa blades also depend on how the balsa core and other plies used or is it a single core.Man ii i am waiting for your review on 729
blade and ysd on fh and also with dhs pg9

I saw some tapes of hugo calderano looping he loops chinese style his hand goes all the way behind his back and the spin is tremendous with speed.

I think i am done with both of these donier blades will try to sell them to those who play with pips.


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