OOAK Table Tennis Forum

I have to admit, installing/removing my own rubbers for some reason scares the crap out of me. I understand that I it's not that complicated (sure looks simple enough in every one of 10 different Youtube videos I've watched). But maybe it's because too many moving components, and a possibility of something going wrong during each of them?
Lets see:
1. Pick up the right glue. Revolution 3? Free Chalk? Tear Mender? Something else?
2. How many coats? on the rubber? blade?
3. Removing the rubber without tearing up the sponge
4. Cleaning the blade
5. Storing removed rubbers. What's your method?

See what I mean? This is scary (ok, maybe not downright scary, but a bit concerning)

Alex

There are heaps of threads on this, but i guess we could do it again.

1. Glue: I like the donic vario ones, because they come with a bag of sponges and a clip.
2. Coats. 1 and 1. LET IT DRY. If it's clear it's dry. If it's white it's not.
3. pull it off sideways. slowly. In small efforts.
4. Don't need to clean it if you don't mess up 3. If you do mess up 3. and ruin the sponge, just use the sponge/glue side to scrub the blade to clean it. Then chuck it in the bin.
5. stick it in the plastic cover that came with the rubber then into your bat case. Doesn't need to be air tight.

Once you actually do it once you'll realise it's not scary...

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Chasse Patate

+1. If you are too scared, get an old sheet from a friend and experiment with it, may be buy a really cheap 'practice' one. A simple sheet of rubber/foam from an arts and crafts/home improvement store would work too if you are afraid of ruining your Tenergy or something similarly expensive. Watch a friend doing it - somehow I see it in our club every other day or so.

Some things on your list aren't even worth thinking about (like perfect ways to store old rubbers or best ways of cleaning the blade) - you don't need it to be flawless, as long as in the end it is more or less uniformly attached to the blade. If you want to talk about scary stuff - try gluing on $$$ LP in OX , these ones you can really destroy.

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USATT: 1807 | League: 1887

Gluing LP ox is probably the only difficult thing to glue (without using glue sheets)

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Chasse Patate

Already looking at AliExpress for some cheapo rubbers. Will use it with the M8 that I got last week. It came with pre-glued 729s. I'm assuming it was unsealed? Do I need to seal it once I get the original rubbers off?

Alex


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Does not really matter - one more thing you probably should not worry about

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USATT: 1807 | League: 1887

Glad to hear that.
But, isn't it easier to pull off the rubber from the sealed blade?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

In my experience it did not make much of a difference, I sealed may be one out of 10 blades I have lying around, mostly driven by Internet advice. I was/am using rubber cement, though, but even with water-based glue, I don't think it forms bond strong enough to splinter the blade at removal.

If you want to try sealing it, sure, go ahead.

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USATT: 1807 | League: 1887

Depends how much sealant you put on. If you need to seal or not really depends on the manufacturer and possibly the wood type.

For example, in my experience I'd seal all Stiga and andro blades (Although not all of these actually need sealing), wouldn't bother with Bty and Nittaku. Donic and Yasaka are a bit of a 'depends' thing. I wouldn't go out of my way to seal a Galaxy blade either.

Also on sealing, find some polyurethane varnish, fold up a paper towel, dip a tiny bit onto the paper towel and just rub it evenly across the blade. You essentially need to dampen the surface of the blade with the varnish; don't put a heavy lacquer on.

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Chasse Patate

I've been holding off getting some varnish for a while as I wasn't sure what sort I needed. So I looked it up and saw that it was Polyurethane Varnish that I needed. So I went to the hardware store the other week to get some polyurethane varnish. Was pretty confident of what I needed, didn't seem very hard. Polyurenthane varnish. That was until the lady asked whether I wanted oil based or water based.

I still don't have any varnish.

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Donic Waldner Senso V1,FH Baracuda Big Slam 2.0mm ,BH Victas Triple Regular 2.0mm

The correct answer would have been: Which one is cheaper?

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Chasse Patate

Both work quite well.

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OOAK Table Tennis Shop | Re-Impact Blades | Butterfly Table Tennis bats
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Recent Articles: Butterfly Tenergy Alternatives | Tenergy Rubbers Compared | Re-Impact User Guide

after reading up numerous posts, it looks like MinWax Wipe-On Poly is the most recommended varnish.
Unless, of course, I'm wrong again

Alex

Lol. This really made me laugh out loud. And I am in the same boat. Will go again next week to see what I can find. I believe I will go with oil-based.

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I rarely have a problem but if you do have some acetone handy works to get out any crimps if you need to redo.

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Panda Drive / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max / Play right-handed
XVT balsa carbon 10mm / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Globe 979 Long Pips OX / Play Left-handed shakehand
Stiga Def Wood / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH GD CC LP OX .. Play Left-handed
Cpen SOS Wood / 4H 729 802-40 2.0 / BH GD Talon use righthanded shakehand grip
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