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PostPosted: 27 May 2018, 13:49 
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Blade: 729 C-5 FL
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With my budget of about $50, I'm choosing two rubbers for a blade I already have. I want to be a modern defender, so an inverted rubber with chopping abilities on one side and a chopping LP on the other is desired. My question is, if I'm choosing between either Feint Long III + Skyline TG3 or C8 + Tackiness Chop, which setup is more worth it? Does the FLIII make it worth it to have a cheaper/less specialized inverted chopping rubber? Is the same true for the Tackiness Chop and the long pip rubber? Is there a compromise where the two rubbers are closer to equal price? If so, what is it?
I'm also considering Gambler Reflectoid instead of Skyline TG3...

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PostPosted: 27 May 2018, 14:44 
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Blade: Butterfly Defence Alpha
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coymanneemus wrote:
With my budget of about $50, I'm choosing two rubbers for a blade I already have. I want to be a modern defender, so an inverted rubber with chopping abilities on one side and a chopping LP on the other is desired. My question is, if I'm choosing between either Feint Long III + Skyline TG3 or C8 + Tackiness Chop, which setup is more worth it? Does the FLIII make it worth it to have a cheaper/less specialized inverted chopping rubber? Is the same true for the Tackiness Chop and the long pip rubber? Is there a compromise where the two rubbers are closer to equal price? If so, what is it?
I'm also considering Gambler Reflectoid instead of Skyline TG3...
In layman term, Tackiness Chop, and Reflectoid, and Donic Slice CD

Great for Blocking (less affected by incoming loop spin, provided the loop fast enough)
Great for Chopping (on generating own backspin)
Poor for Looping (too fast to bottom out)
Poor for Driving (Too unspringly)

And Skyline TG3

Poor for Blocking (more affected by incoming loop spin,)
Great for Chopping (on generating own backspin)
Great for Looping (not easy to bottom out, spinny)
Poor for Driving (Too unspringly)


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PostPosted: 29 May 2018, 15:40 
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Hi,

A fellow club-member, although not a chopper, used TG3 for a while, so I got a chance to play with it, multiple times.

First things first - This rubber is on the heavier and harder side.. I can't recall what rubber my club-mate was using on the other side, but the TG3 made the entire setup head-heavy, and also created a bit of an imbalance... Being an LP user, weight and balance are factors I take into consideration..

The rubber requires considerable amount of physical effort for loops and drives... The fellow who used it had a big action while looping or driving, so, I guess the TG3 suited him. If you want to hit/drive hard n fast, then this rubber would work for you.

I found it rather sensitive to incoming spin, and not forgiving.


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PostPosted: 31 May 2018, 06:32 
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BeGo wrote:
In layman term, Tackiness Chop, and Reflectoid, and Donic Slice CD

Great for Blocking (less affected by incoming loop spin, provided the loop fast enough)
Great for Chopping (on generating own backspin)
Poor for Looping (too fast to bottom out)
Poor for Driving (Too unspringly)


How would Tackiness Drive, or even Sriver, differ from Tackiness Chop using the above criteria? These would cost about the same, I think. Tackiness Chop was the first inverted rubber sheet I ever bought (around 1980), all I remember was it was WAY too slow for topspin driving.

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PostPosted: 31 May 2018, 15:59 
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Kind of a strange thread with the focus on 2 completely different setups. Also, the blade used is of some importance and I fail to see which type it will be. I suggest to combine the Feint with a softer, japanese type forehand on a more linear blade and the C8 with a harder, more tacky and less bouncy forehand otherwise.

Bottoming out on a slower blade could be a wishful effect on blocking/hitting. Tackiness C was afair all tack but low grip, driving and looping was manageable but an adaptation of the technique was needed. The drive-version - albeit still quite slow - did chop well and loops/drives were easy to achieve - hence, it is very sensitive to incoming spin.

If in doubt, the CJ8000 2-side loop in for example 2mm would fit the bill as well. Cheap, chops and drives well, moderately tacky while still grippy, not too sensitive on incoming spin. It's not too fast nor is it too heavy, but it absolutely reflects the character of the blade used.

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PostPosted: 31 May 2018, 23:12 
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iskandar taib wrote:
BeGo wrote:
In layman term, Tackiness Chop, and Reflectoid, and Donic Slice CD

Great for Blocking (less affected by incoming loop spin, provided the loop fast enough)
Great for Chopping (on generating own backspin)
Poor for Looping (too fast to bottom out)
Poor for Driving (Too unspringly)


How would Tackiness Drive, or even Sriver, differ from Tackiness Chop using the above criteria? These would cost about the same, I think. Tackiness Chop was the first inverted rubber sheet I ever bought (around 1980), all I remember was it was WAY too slow for topspin driving.

Iskandar
These are my own assessment from various "pinjam punya teman" (borrowing from a friend) sessions and reviews I have reads.

These rubbers great for blocking and chopping. Difference between Them mostly reside on which rubber highly specialized for blocking and chopping (Original Tackiness Chop) to more all rounder version.
Butterfly Tackiness Chop
Butterfly Tackiness Chop 2
Butterfly Tackiness Drive
Butterfly Tackifire C Soft

These rubbers great if You play like Fukuhara Ai or Harimoto Tomokazu, Traditional Japanese Block and Drive
Butterfly Sriver G2 FX
Butterfly Sriver
Butterfly Sriver FX

This rubber perfect for creating backspin.
Butterfly Tackifire C

This rubber is for those who combine safety chop with hard drives.
Butterfly Sriver High Tune

I believe this is a more well rounded answer for DHS Skyline TG3
Butterfly Sriver G3 FX

These are all rounder rubbers, with small weakness on looping, compared to current all rounder rubber like Donic Bluefire JP3
Butterfly Tackifire Special-Soft
Butterfly Sriver G2
Butterfly Sriver G3
Butterfly Sriver EL

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PostPosted: 01 Jun 2018, 13:26 
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Red wrote:
Kind of a strange thread with the focus on 2 completely different setups. Also, the blade used is of some importance and I fail to see which type it will be. I suggest to combine the Feint with a softer, japanese type forehand on a more linear blade and the C8 with a harder, more tacky and less bouncy forehand otherwise.

Bottoming out on a slower blade could be a wishful effect on blocking/hitting. Tackiness C was afair all tack but low grip, driving and looping was manageable but an adaptation of the technique was needed. The drive-version - albeit still quite slow - did chop well and loops/drives were easy to achieve - hence, it is very sensitive to incoming spin.

If in doubt, the CJ8000 2-side loop in for example 2mm would fit the bill as well. Cheap, chops and drives well, moderately tacky while still grippy, not too sensitive on incoming spin. It's not too fast nor is it too heavy, but it absolutely reflects the character of the blade used.

That’s exactly what I thought. Those setups are very different, and I think it would make sense to pair the FL3 with the Tack C for a spin variation classic chop setup, and C8 with TG3 for more modern D.

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