OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Hello,
I have been playing extensively over the past 4 months with the following Equipment

F/H - DHS Hurrican 3 Neo
B/H Yasaka Mark 5.
Blade : GKI Carbon blade

For the F/H, I plan to buy the Hurricane 3 neo itself as it suits my playing style more. I get a lot of spin, but not much speed, however I'm generating speed by myself instead of the blade and rubber, which is very rewarding with the H3 Neo.

For B/H : I feel I need a harder rubber and was thinking to go for Rakza 7. The Mark V is great, but I think even when i put the extra effort to loop, I get a bit of extra speed, but loose out on spin; also it doesn't have the kick effect - Any views ?

Blade : I'm still confused if I should keep the carbon blade or shift to an all wood blade. Since Neo3 doesn't generate much speed, I had chosen a carbon blade, however getting a wooden blade will drive me to generate speed by myself instead of relying on the equipment.

Kindly advice

Thank you

The consensus here seems to be that carbon blades aren't good, especially for beginners. Too fast, mainly, leads to gimpy strokes. Not everyone agrees, YMMV. If you want an excellent all-wood blade, buy one of these even if you decide to get something else:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/SANWEI- ... 01460.html

Can't go wrong at that price...

Interesting that you think Rakza 7 is harder than Mark V - Mark V was considered a top-line pro rubber before the speed glue ban, so I don't think it'd be considered "soft", while Rakza 7 IS a soft tensor. So is Baracuda.

Iskandar

I still consider myself still a "beginner", so YMMV, advice is just that.

Blade is something that works for you with almost any and every rubber you try.

Rubber is something that makes small improvements to your game.


So with MarkV and H3Neo ... which blade makes you play best ? This is the kind of reasoning I found worked out for me.

I also used to think " not enough speed! go faster! " ... then I found out ... if my arm / stroke / body went faster ... there is no need to get a faster blade or faster rubber !

So mostly I play with All+ pure-wood blade ( most of them are Balsa ) ... and certain types of rubbers ... high control + spin ... almost no speed !

Again YMMV


Use the GKI Carbon blade if it suits you. Or try out other people's setups. Find which one works better for you. Buy ONE blade... let it be the best one you tried out ... stick the same rubbers you already have ... stay with the setup for 3 to 6 months with proper coaching and club play/practice.

Again YMMV

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:

• TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
  1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
  2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
• 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
• TSP Versal :
  1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
  2. FH/BH-*blank*

Fun blades:

• Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
• Dr. Neubauer
  High Technology
  Cypress-Carbon(ST)
  ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7

==========================================================

Thanks for all the advice.

I love my current setup, the only thing I wish I would have changed would be to use an all wood blade. I'm still thinking about. I have decided to go for F/H - DHS Skyline TG 2 and Rakza. I may end up using the GKI Carbon blade

Check this OFF/OFF+ blade https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_eng ... -goiabao-5 with very good price until the end of the week, all wood and an excellent copy (some say it is even better) of the Stiga Rosewood V

_________________
current setup: blade: Yinhe 980 | FH: Palio AK47 Blue 2.1mm | BH: TSP Curl P1-R 1mm
looping setup: blade: Yinhe W-6 | FH: Palio AK47Red 2.1mm | BH: Palio AK47Blue 2.1mm
@work setup: blade: Yinhe 980 | FH: Yinhe Mercury2 2.1mm | BH: Yinhe Neptune 0.7mm
to-be-used setup: blade: DONIC DefPlay Senso 3 | FH: YASAKA Rakza 7 soft 1.8mm | BH: TSP SpinPips Chop 2 1.4mm

Have chosen an all wood Tibhar Stratus Power wood for the blade. Will let you know how this compares to a carbon balde

Blades matter more than rubber does, in my opinion. Or rather, blades are what determine how a combo plays and can actually affect how you play. There are differences between rubbers, but they are subtle, while differences between blades are dramatic.

Iskandar

Although, theres some truth n logic to the above statement, I would take it with a pinch of salt..

There's, no one component that any matters more or less than the other, or how it affects your game... It has to be a combination of both, blade and rubber, that has to suit your skill & style of play ....

Do you feel there'd be a subtle difference, between a Reactor Corbor, and T064, if both are installed on the same Allround blade ?

For example - A high-ranking player at our club - a genuine double-winged looper, bought a TB ALC blade, along with T064 on the FH, and a Donic Bluefire M2 (or was it M1), around 7-8 months back... and, although his BH top-spins were spinny, they lacked that special something... he wasn't too happy with the BH rubber, and so, around 2 month back, at the behest of his coach, he switched to, what I feel is a blisteringly fast rubber called Nittaku Fastarc... and boy-oh-boy, his BH top is at god-level.... Over here, his blade remains the same, but changing the rubber, made a world of a difference

Don't know, haven't tried T64..

I expect there will be a difference. A HUGE difference? I suppose it would depend on who's playing... higher level players might think the difference is huge, lower level players wouldn't see as much of a difference. I've been sorely disappointed with the likes of Rasant Turbo and Evolution MX-P. I got them because they were supposed to be ultra-fast, something "only a pro would be able to use" (they actually make this claim on the MX-P package). I didn't necessarily think they'd make my game any better, I just wanted to see what a super-duper fast rubber that I couldn't control was like. What did I find? Something that was maybe marginally faster than, say, Big Dipper. Nothing I couldn't handle. It didn't change my strokes, or make me play any differently. On the other hand, changing from a N11 to a M8 DID change the way I play. These days I use a lot more in the way of touch shots and angles, and I hit less. I am actually able to chop, and my blocks are a lot more successful.

Iskandar

There're rubbers out there that have extremely minute perceivable difference(s) between them, and would take skilled/experienced hands to note the differences ... However, there're a lot of rubbers that're like chalk and cheese ... even entry-level players would be able to make-out the difference... case-in-point - MX-P, and Reactor Corbor... The difference in just the speed (even on the exact same blade), would be significant...

I'd agree that Reactor Ckylin (a.k.a. "Chinese Blue Fire" ) or Tackiness Chop (or even unboosted H3, maybe) are jarringly different than everything else... In fact, Ckylin and Tackiness Chop would be almost useless for most lower level players, unless they play a certain way.

Iskandar