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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2019, 14:41 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Water-based varnishes raise the wood's grain. If you want the wood to remain as smooth as it was when you unwrap the blade, oil based works better. Water based varnish will work, but there's no reason it's better than oil-based varnish. It's also more expensive and, outside the US, not all that easy to get.

In the US, go to Wal-Mart and look for Red Devil Brand polyurethane. It's available in oil and water based variants.

Iskandar
Damn!
Somehow I was pretty sure I needed water based... VOC free, etc
The glues are water based though...
Maybe water based to water based would stick better?
There were plenty of oil based varnishes in the shop, way cheaper...
Ah, remember now... the online tennis shop sells water based varnishes... that is where my understanding come from...
I wonder if I can sand it off a bit after varnish to remove those raised grains of wood...

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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2019, 17:08 
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Blade: Stiga All round Classic
FH: Yasaka Mark V Max
BH: Yasaka Mark V Max
Finished lacquering my pg7. This is what it looks now. But I messed up regluing my old MARK V rubbers onto the blade. Glue residue on blade was easily removable but the DHS glue on rubber seems to have strong bond and is hard to remove. Having trouble in removing this freshly aaplied glue from rubber.

Note: I removed old glue residue from the rubber. For this I rubbed TT ball on the rubber and it removed easily.

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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2019, 17:10 
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Blade: Stiga All round Classic
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2nd picture is of the glue residue left on rubber which I need to remove. Any suggestions in cleaning up this mess?ImageImage

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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2019, 17:50 
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tmorajkar wrote:
2nd picture is of the glue residue left on rubber which I need to remove. Any suggestions in cleaning up this mess? https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201906 ... cbe8e0.jpg


hi, my Dear Friend.

MALAISIAN NATURAL LATEX REMOVER..
Apply three or four more layers of the DHS white glue ONTO the rubber in question. Then roll off the whole glue layer.
I do use neither DHS staff nor suchlike. Instead, I have a jar brimful of liquid latex sap. REVULTEX LOW AMMONIA.

SOME VIDEO TUTORIALS
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-gb1vOM1nk
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d1dhGgUsOTA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sB6R6d2kTlQ

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PostPosted: 29 Jun 2019, 21:29 
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Blade: Stiga All round Classic
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So I managed to remove glue from rubbers successfully. Stuck black properly but the red rubber got curled wierdly and is not getting stuck on blade due to that. Both rubbers are 3-4 months old Mark V. I think I should give up on this DIY stuff.Image

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PostPosted: 30 Jun 2019, 00:08 
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Blade: Stiga All round Classic
FH: Yasaka Mark V Max
BH: Yasaka Mark V Max
Since the red rubber used on backhand got screwed, I will be ordering a new rubber to replace it. Also I would buy another pair of spare rubbers for future. Any suggestions are welcome. Considering following rubbers for backhand:
729 Focus Snipe 3 (2.1mm, H44) 10USD

Extra pair of rubbers:
Hurricane 3 Neo (2.2mm H40)
729 Focus Snipe 3


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PostPosted: 30 Jun 2019, 11:55 
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Zverev wrote:
iskandar taib wrote:
Water-based varnishes raise the wood's grain. If you want the wood to remain as smooth as it was when you unwrap the blade, oil based works better. Water based varnish will work, but there's no reason it's better than oil-based varnish. It's also more expensive and, outside the US, not all that easy to get.

In the US, go to Wal-Mart and look for Red Devil Brand polyurethane. It's available in oil and water based variants.

Iskandar
Damn!
Somehow I was pretty sure I needed water based... VOC free, etc
The glues are water based though...
Maybe water based to water based would stick better?
There were plenty of oil based varnishes in the shop, way cheaper...
Ah, remember now... the online tennis shop sells water based varnishes... that is where my understanding come from...
I wonder if I can sand it off a bit after varnish to remove those raised grains of wood...

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk


Water-based polyurethanes will work, oil would be better because of the grain issue, which really isn't anything serious (yes, fine sandpaper would flatten the grain out again, just don't sand through the varnish). Actually, we never used water based cements in table tennis until the speed glue ban - at that time they implemented VOC testing at tournaments (only at the biggest tournaments, though, and in the US where there are categories all the way down to U-800, only in the top classes I imagine) so our old glues were suddenly "illegal". Actually, it wasn't illegal to use them, but they'd set off the VOC tester so the top pros couldn't use them. Never mind that the rest of us will never ever come across a VOC tester in our lives...

Before that, all table tennis glues were organic solvent based. You could buy special "table tennis glues" like Butterfly Chack, but in the US pretty much everyone just bought Elmer's Rubber Cement (which I use to this day). Best Test Rubber Cement is actually better but harder to find (try Office Depot or Staples), and you can get Bestine solvent to thin it down some more (the second half of the can tends to get thicker, the solvent fixes this). You'll find some people claiming that Rubber Cement "boosts" the rubber. It does not. The old speed glues were mostly solvent, with very little rubber, and you had to apply them right before playing, with the effect lasting only for about two hours. Any effect caused by Elmer's Rubber Cement should be gone in 10 minutes.

I'd only use water-based glue for OX long pips (or short pips), since rubber cement does make it curl. These days I'd rather use a glue sheet for those, in any case.

I'd like to try Innoglue (search Amazon) but shipping from the US costs a fortune these days.

Why would the tennis shop sell water based varnishes? I thought wooden tennis rackets went out in the 1970s...

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 30 Jun 2019, 12:08 
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Interesting history... had no idea... just taking things at face value for the lack of time.

I am using Donic glue sheets exclusively and will always use them.
Cheap, easy to apply, holds exceptionally well, easy to move.
I am moving rubbers from racket to racket in minutes...
Compare to the mess Tmorajkar just did.... :)


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PostPosted: 30 Jun 2019, 15:51 
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Blade: Stiga All round Classic
FH: Yasaka Mark V Max
BH: Yasaka Mark V Max
It is hard to find different table tennis products in India at stores since any sports scene apart from Cricket is not there even though I live in Mumbai which is the most developed city of India. Have to solely rely on online stores

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PostPosted: 30 Jun 2019, 23:41 
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LOW MOISTURE ---> BETTER SAFETY. STIGA Attach Power Glue, high viscosity emulsion.



The table tennis accessories of Attach Power Glue by STIGA© is known to be a new formula WBG with reduced moisture content only 5% water incorporated. It is much like a sour cream consistency because of the low moisture content. The glue is safe to apply onto unsealed soft-wood veneers. A great product, indeed.

WARNING:
Most of WBG products on market may cause unsealed veneer layer warping due to a decent moisture content of up to 13%. Such as DHS 15 , Revolution N3, Haifu Water Bond and many-many more. All the WBG products that pouring like a yogurt drink is known to contain water in plenty up to 13%. Waterish substances disagrees with the soft wood veneer, you know.

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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2019, 23:36 
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Received new rubbers today. Assembled it right away. Was playing with my friends racket till then. Here comes my setup now. Happy like a child. :DImageImageImageImage

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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2019, 23:37 
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Thanks all for the much needed help for my first DIY racket

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PostPosted: 21 Jul 2019, 03:28 
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Ah.. 61 Second protector sheets. I can probably guess where the rubber came from... :lol:

Iskandar


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