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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 02:09 
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Topic title says it all.

Please add why you have come to your conclusion.

For me, it's Butterfly Tenergy 64.

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File comment: Tenergy lasts 64 seconds
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Attachment:
File comment: Tears for Fears
tenergy 64 seconds worth.jpg
tenergy 64 seconds worth.jpg [ 582.62 KiB | Viewed 654 times ]


64 seconds in to using it for the first time I caught the table and this was the result. Ok, not 64 seconds but I didn't even make it to play a game. This happened in the warm up the first time I tried it. Admittedly I caught the table but I've caught other rubbers much harder/worse on a table and not had this problem.


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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 02:21 
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I have torn 2 rubbers in "normal" use. One was a Tenergy 05 (quite new at the time), which I surmise happened when I caught the table on a BH push/chop. Done this many times with other rubbers, with no damage. I do now notice that a lot of pros use a few inches of edge tape right in the area where my tear happened.
The other was a Nexy Karis (second-hand). It was a little over-sized on the blade I was using, and developed a tear which would appear to be due to the ball hitting the rubber right at the top. This was about 2-3cms. Never actually hit the table with this one.

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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 03:43 
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I did manage to put a small tear in the face (not the edge!) of my sheet of Rakza 7, by hitting the table. I've continued to use it for some months after that, and it hasn't affected anything.

In the old days no one would care if you had chunks missing off the rubber, near the edge of the blade. Why is it such an issue now? If you hit the ball that close to the edge the ball's likely to come off funny anyhow, blemish or no blemish.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 10:46 
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Also, if you've applied lots and lots of different sheets, you'll notice some sheets are really easy to cut, others will crumble under the knife, tearing little bits out of the sponge and/or topsheet even if you are using a brand new, sharp blade. I wish I'd kept records of this, but I didn't. Some of these expensive rubbers with large pore sponges are the worst in this regard - my guess would be that Tenergy would be pretty bad in this regard.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 12:11 
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Yes some topsheets seem very weak and almost brittle. As iskandar taib already mentioned too, you can sometimes tell when you're cutting the rubber because it tears so easily. Butterfly Flextra comes to mind, very hard to cut without tearing bits off the edge. It think it's related to the amount of synthetic materials mixed with the rubber. That's why most Chinese rubbers are so durable, they're usually 100% rubber.

The most fragile I've used are probably the first generation Tensors, which tended to just drop bits off the edge over time, as if rabbits nibbled on them. :lol:
The original Joola Tango comes to mind... nice rubber but it did not look pretty after a few months.
I didn't think the Tenegies were particularly bad in this respect... they're regarded as the more durable rubbers amongst German/Japanese rubbers.

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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 16:11 
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I don't think it's made anymore but was a hot topic at one stage...Gambler Outlaw. Very fragile!

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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 17:54 
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Debater wrote:
Topic title says it all.

Please add why you have come to your conclusion.

For me, it's Butterfly Tenergy 64.

Attachment:
The attachment nooooooo________.jpg is no longer available

Attachment:
The attachment tenergy 64 seconds worth.jpg is no longer available


64 seconds in to using it for the first time I caught the table and this was the result. Ok, not 64 seconds but I didn't even make it to play a game. This happened in the warm up the first time I tried it. Admittedly I caught the table but I've caught other rubbers much harder/worse on a table and not had this problem.

£64 wow-u could have bought ME 32 coffees with that mate-stick with a shitty old sheet of s/p bud.
Attachment:
Snapshot_20190322_1.JPG
Snapshot_20190322_1.JPG [ 69.51 KiB | Viewed 493 times ]


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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 19:34 
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iskandar taib wrote:
Also, if you've applied lots and lots of different sheets, you'll notice some sheets are really easy to cut, others will crumble under the knife, tearing little bits out of the sponge and/or topsheet even if you are using a brand new, sharp blade. I wish I'd kept records of this, but I didn't. Some of these expensive rubbers with large pore sponges are the worst in this regard - my guess would be that Tenergy would be pretty bad in this regard.

Iskandar


My theory is that you have damaged the rubber if it crumbles when you cut it. This will lead to it breaking more easily when you start using it. I guess that the crumbles are like mini fractures in the rubber that quite easily will expand

I used to have huge problems with T05 and Rozena being brittle when I used to cut it with a stanley knife but these problems have done away after experimenting with a (rounded) surgical scalpel and a good pair of scissors. Dipping the scalpel in oil also makes the cutting easier.

I've seen the same with friends who use Xiom Omega Pro and given them the tip to use scissors instead and it seem to have improved the durability.


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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 19:57 
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Yasaka Rakza 7 - chips of like a cracker


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PostPosted: 06 Jul 2019, 20:24 
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That's a pretty small chip and not somewhere you are likely to hit the ball with. I wouldn't worry too much if I were you.

Fore bad durability, I would say some of the more vulcanized short pips like 802-802-40, they develop oxidation after a few weeks and loose some grip.

For high durability, Xiom Vega series damn near lasts forever. You might want to try the Vega Asia and see if you like it over the T64. I made the switch.


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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2019, 11:49 
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mart1nandersson wrote:
Dipping the scalpel in oil also makes the cutting easier.


Oh yeah! I'd been meaning to try this but have never gotten around to it. I heard dishwashing detergent instead of oil, though (the undiluted stuff).

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2019, 21:47 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
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Palio Thors with its Uranium Yellow cake sponge :lol: it just powders off the edges ...

Also Rakza 7 does get damaged if you hit the table edge with it but it doesn't just tear off in chunks ...

Rakza 7 soft was a big culprit ... even edge tape cant stop it just cracking at the edges ...

Most 729 rubbers are bricks! Nothing breaks the sponge or topsheet unless you are nailing them :lol:

More than chipping the bigger problems i have is with the rubber popping off the blade due to the "dish" or reverse-dome effect of old rubbers re-glued too many times or re-boosted too much :?: :lol: :lol: :lol: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

Mostly I just lose the point rather than go for a risky edge shots ... either I play over the table ... or under the table ... never off the edge of the table :lol: :lol: :lol: I am not an Olympics qualifier or National ranked player :lol: :lol: :lol: save the dollars to buy new rubbers and keep reusing the old stuff ...

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  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
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PostPosted: 07 Jul 2019, 21:51 
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iskandar taib wrote:
mart1nandersson wrote:
Dipping the scalpel in oil also makes the cutting easier.


Oh yeah! I'd been meaning to try this but have never gotten around to it. I heard dishwashing detergent instead of oil, though (the undiluted stuff).

Iskandar


:up: :up: :up: This! Using soapy water works wonders when cutting difficult to cut rubbers! Also no residue or anything .... I would think the oil *might* interfere with the WBG ? not sure on that ... the soapy water doesn't affect the glue-up in anyway that I have experienced so far. Just like nail-polish remover for removing rubbers it has become my tried-and-tested way of doing. One small cup of soapy water to dip the box cutter blade in while cutting and keep re-dipping until the blade glides with zero resistance.

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Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
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