OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Perhaps it would be a helpful idea to share your experience with glues .What is your favourite water based glue? Mine is Revolution 3.0 , normal viscosity

I agree, I love latex WBG, viscosity it all depends the kind of rubber and sponge, hard sponge heavy weight like chinese H3 or similars I like high viscosity, OX long pips and light weight inverted low or normal viscosity. About brands: for chinese DHS 15, Nittaku finezip and the rest Revolution no. 3 or similars with latex are ok.

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I use the Donic Vario Clean for almost everything, have been for years. It's one of the cheaper glues, especially when you buy the 500ml refill pack. It sticks the rubbers well, not too hard to remove. I've never had a bad bottle, they're always the same.
Of course this glue is very similar (if not identical) to many of the other glues out there. I think virtually all the German brands use the same factory.

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I found this bottle at the back of one of the drawers. I opened and used it earlier this year after I bought it in 2018. The color is brownish, the smell a bit funny, some solidified particle. But for the most part is still in good liquid form. I used it to glue rubbers to blades, and at times to glue top sheets to sponges. Still works well up until two months ago when I left for China and I left it behind.

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I use that glue too, only for gluing OX sheets. The glue is thinner and stronger, which is what you need for OX sheets as they come off so easily, especially where you put your finger. This is mainly sold in the little 25g bottles with a sponge on top.
You'd certainly want to seal your blade when using this (if not already sealed), as it can be quite strong. I have noticed some variations between batches of these... some are stronger than others. You always have to shake really well before using it.

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OOAK Table Tennis Shop | Re-Impact Blades | Butterfly Table Tennis bats
Setup1: Re-Impact Smart, Viper OX, Victas VS 401 Setup2: Re-Impact Barath, Dtecs OX, TSP Triple Spin Chop 1.0mm Setup3: Re-Impact Dark Knight, Hellfire OX, 999 Turbo
Recent Articles: Butterfly Tenergy Alternatives | Tenergy Rubbers Compared | Re-Impact User Guide

I seal all my blades, no worries there. I also put it on another smaller container, other small glue tube for easy use. The one on the window sill toward the left. I’m quite surprised with the quality. After so many years it’s still usable.

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I get on just fine with the 30mL tubes of Huieson glue for about $6AUD off eBay.

I tried some DHS No.15 the other day to glue up a bat for a junior at the club, and it was not nice! Super thick, ended up turning into 'cottage cheese' with little balls in no time. I definitely prefer it thinner.

I stay away from water based glues. They're finicky to use, and it's really easy to make a mistake. Just barely touch a sheet of drying rubber with a fingertip and some of it will come off, which means you have to rub it all off and start over again. There's really no need to use them - I doubt anyone who posts here (other than Brett) will ever have to have their bat subjected to a VOC test. Also, applying them to blades will cause deterioration over time - Ovtcharov and Boll have said so in interviews - blades USED to last forever, they don't any more. I think this is true even if you seal them.

What do I use? Elmer's Rubber Cement. It's what we used in the 1980s and 90s (when we weren't speed-gluing) and it works very well. If you're in the US, Best Test is probably better, but you'd have to get it through a specialized office supply place (like Staples or Office Depot).

What do I use for OX pips? Glue sheets. Get proper ones (the ones sold by the likes of Xiom, Andro, etc.) - they have a weak side and a strong side, the strong side goes towards the rubber and the weak side towards the blade. That makes the rubber easy to remove, AND it makes it re-attachable. You can even move rubbers from blade to blade. But they are relatively expensive compared to Elmer's so I don't use them for inverted sheets.

Iskandar

The problems you mentioned with WBG I also had encountered before. And mainly due to either and both use of too thin (not enough viscosity) and low(er) quality ones. I had to reglued many times due to these and several times ruined ox rubbers. But not anymore since I use more solid glue, enough dose, and better quality ones.

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Have you tried Igor's favorite glue? Apparently it's latex body paint.. He claimed it's the same as table tennis water based glue. I'm not so sure - I mean, imagine a night club with a bunch of people in latex body paint - if it behaved anything like table tennis glue you'd have all these people bumping into each other and getting stuck to each other.. And then it would come off... And since people wearing the body paint are, in essence, otherwise naked...

Iskandar

I've always found the Donic glues to be very good. If you're in the U.S. and order from Paddle Palace, their glue is also good.

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I like REvolution 3.0 in medium viscosity.

^ rev 3 is great. WBGs do require attention to detail and a soft touch to get an even, consistent good quality glue job. I admit it does take experience to do it well, especially when judging the amount of glue to put onto the rubber - every sponge requires a slightly different amount, depending on how much it will absorb. You need to be prepared to add a small glob more when required, and have somewhere to wipe your sponge to get rid of the glue if there is too much. If you use too much, the 'streaks' will be too big and you will see the shape of them through the rubber when it is attached. Also if you have a large bottle, the glue may get slightly thicker towards the end of the bottle, so you may need to adjust for that too. Sometimes, for some reason, when the glue dries it isn't always 'tacky' as it normally is. I first encountered this when using a hairdryer to quicken drying time and thought that was responsible, but I think I encountered it once without the hairdryer too. I also suspect that quick drying methods may prevent any natural levelling that may take place, so if I use WBGs I no longer use a hairdryer.

On hot days, the glue will dry quicker. So you need to get it all even within the time limit When you are smoothing it out and start to feel a slight increase in resistance (it starts drying), you need to stop, or you will start creating tiny spheres of glue that will ruin your otherwise great glue job. The worst thing ever is having a perfect glue job except for that one tiny little particle right in the hitting area. Once I did a great job and left it to dry, only to come back later and find a tiny baby fly had decided to die right in the middle of it, the bastard. Also, every gluing video I've seen on Youtube looks really poor and rushed to me, they are all uneven glue jobs and just watching them gives me PTSD. I'm not pedantic am I? :p

Now I use glue sheets. They are much faster (no waiting 1h on a cold day), easier, and not messy. They guarantee even and consistent gluing. The biggest benefit is that if you touch the table during play and lift a bit of the rubber off the blade, the glue sheet just requires a bit or pressing and it sticks back down, just like new. With WBGs, forget it, it will not stick back down - if having a bit of rubber lifting up from the blade annoys you as much as it does me, you will need to go home and re-glue the whole thing later that night.