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PostPosted: 22 Dec 2009, 00:46 
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Thanks for the note on the JOO. I heard that it's not a very easy blade to play with, especially in an initial phase due to its stiffness & speed.
However, as you say, once (if...) you manage to get used to it you should even more effective with your DTECS. One question...do you use the JOO playing next to the table and how does it behave when performing topspins ? In regards to the 3 blades we considered so far (nobody seems to have tried the Aurora yet), could we say that

- Balsa 2.5 is the slowest and more elastic. Play fine with DTECS.
- NSD a bit faster and stiffer and so more effective on the "disruption" side with DTECS...
- JOO is the fastest and stiffest but should be the most effective one once you master speed and stiffness

Will try both NSD and JOO in the next weeks to "touch with hand"... :wink:

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PostPosted: 22 Dec 2009, 15:09 
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When i used the joo with long pips with no sponge, i had problems with the inverted side because the sweet spot was effectively a sweet point - the response across the blade varied dramatically depending on where i hit the ball. I played like that for a while not realizing it - i just thought i was a crappy blocker (which i am) but switching to sponge on the back side made a huge difference in consistency. I don't recommend that blade unless you have sponge on both sides.

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PostPosted: 23 Dec 2009, 00:40 
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I don't have a problem with the Joo and a sweet spot. It seems to play very consistently with both sponge and OX. As soon as I picked it up I knew it was going to be a good blade. You just know sometimes I guess.

I tend to play mid distance rather than right up at the table. The top spin is fairly easy to generate against an incoming back spin, but the ball does not sit down at the end of the shot with the DTecs as it used to do with DrN FLP. For this reason your flat punch with the pimples needs to be careful or you will go long. But that's a feature of the rubber rather than the blade.

I have tried the Aurora and have to say didn't like it one bit. I found it to be off balanced and unwieldly.

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Last edited by Konkrete on 21 Feb 2010, 02:53, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 23 Dec 2009, 03:33 
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I agree with Konkrete, the Joo frame is a good choice for the D-tecs Ox....
I tried this rubber before on a carbon frame (Grubba) but on this frame the dtecs was way too fast for me. I had no control on returning fast topspins and the pips seem to break off at the bottom after about 2 to 3 months.
Did test it too on the violin. Although the control was good I could not play those nasty balls as you can do on a carbon blade.
For me the Joo se Hyuk frame was the best compromise: loads of a backspin on fast topspin shots but still be able to play those magic shots (mostly on backspin balls)

On the forehand side I first played Tenergy 05 1.9. This rubber is great for a topspin ball but I found it quiet bouncy while perform block shots. Since one month I switched to Tenergy 25 1.7. A little less topspin than the '05' but amazing control with block shots.

Cheers,

Roger

(Joo Se Hyuk, Grass D-tecs Ox, Tenergy 25 1.7 )


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PostPosted: 23 Dec 2009, 04:04 
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Konkrete wrote:
I have tried the Aurora and have to say didn't like it one bit. I found it to off balance and unwieldly.


I will concur with the Aurora sentiment, just found it too fast even on the def side, this applies to all rubbers including DTecs ox.

Played with TSP 2.5 and DTecs OX last night in two of my three league games. One against a DrN Monster user and one against a double reverse player. I didn't win either, but didn't expect to with minimal practice with the DTecs. Was well impressed with the DTecs against the Monster and was consistent enough against the double reverse to be happy to want to take it further - I just need to learn the new shots :D

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PostPosted: 18 Feb 2010, 20:14 
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I had the D-Tecs on a lot of blades. I think that the best blade for D-Tecs is the NSD. I am playing the NSD for 6 years.

BTY Joo Se Hyuk - good feeling and control. But the blade is to heavy and my opponents told me that the D-Tecs is not dangerous enough

BTY Diode - I could not play with enough backspin.

Tibhar Stratus Power Defence - The D-Tecs never was dangerous

Yinhe LQ II - The ball often got very high. The speed of the blade was very queer.

BTY Boll Spark - good feeling, enough backspin and very good offensive strokes

BTY Jonyer Hinoki Special - I had never a good feeling. Often my balls got too high

BTY Cutlass - It was ok. But i had any problems by playing back the service of my oppenent

Re-Impact Taipan - Good feeling. Very good offensive options. But my FH shot was too slow. My oppenents told me that the NSD was much better for me.

Hattori Hanzo 4.0 DEF SOD - Very good feeling. And I could play with enough backspin. But I had problems with oppenents, who had in the matches before no chance


After all these blades I am playing again my NSD and it is super!

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2010, 11:28 
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Where is the best and easiest place to buy the NSD Blade?

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2010, 11:37 
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LonnieDean wrote:
Where is the best and easiest place to buy the NSD Blade?

I think you have to get it from Europe.

http://www.contra.de/product_info.php/i ... fence.html

http://www.errateam.ch/webshop/ also has it, but their site is down at the moment. :(

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2010, 12:42 
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Thanks Bob!!

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2010, 17:07 
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Hmm the NSD seems like an interesting blade to EJ! :P Is there a review somewhere on this?

As for me, I used the Gergely and Clipper with Dtechs OX and I found Gergely to be really good if the speed can be controlled.

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2010, 19:45 
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In my opinion, if a blade is good for long pips play at the table, it's good for any long pips at the table (CK531A, Grass D-Tecs, Bomb Talent, ...).
I'm more than satisfied with my Ulmo Duality blade.
I tried a lot of blades before making my choice (Andro Def, Stiga Allround Evolution, Hallmark Aurora, Jurgen Pfannschmidt V51, Ulmo Spin Block Def, Ulmo EA, Nittaku Shake Def, Yinhe LQ2, ...). Some of them are very good, but only for some shots and never on every shots. For example, the LQ2 is fantastic when hitting, but difficult when pushing, the Allround Evolution is very good on pushes, but average on hits, ...

A long pips blade need to be hard on the long pips side (as the NSD, the Duality, ...), and softer on the backside side (as the Duality, Alround Evolution,...).
If you are a hitter, you also need a stiff blade.

The biggest quality of the Duality is the linearity of this blade. You don't have the typical two speed effect of most of the combi balsa blades, what gives you a exceptional control on any shots. You down the speed when you want and can accelerate when you want.

Pascal, you should ask Ulrich Möller to have a try with the Ulmo Duality. I'm sure he will be happy to send you a test blade.

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PostPosted: 21 Feb 2010, 19:57 
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Capoblanco wrote:

Pascal, you should ask Ulrich Möller to have a try with the Ulmo Duality. I'm sure he will be happy to send you a test blade.


Maybe after 09 / 10 season. I have got any blades (Nittaku Shake OFF, YINHE LQ II Special, YINHE LQ I, Persson Carbotec, YINHE NSD FAKE) to try.

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PostPosted: 23 Feb 2010, 22:10 
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For me the NSD lacks spin reversal compared to Ulmo Spin Machine or Spin Block. What is nice is that you don't get the balsa rebound effect with the NSD, but it isn't the absolute king of spin reversal.

I also have a Tiapan which is wonderful for a very active attacking game. The thing I personally enjoyed most about the NSD was chopping back from the table, so obviously I like stiff/hard blades for this.

Black DTecs isn't just slower, it's more variable in speed, so better for a block defense when you want to drop short. It does grip a tiny bit more though, as others have mentioned. I like black on a Tiapan to attack with- but it takes practice and you can't be too passive when you block. Red needs a slower blade IMHO.

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PostPosted: 07 May 2010, 20:57 
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How does the D.Tecs play on faster blades like Stiga Clipper or Petr Korbel? Blocking at the table.

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PostPosted: 07 May 2010, 21:56 
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^ Hard to control. If you want to block at the table you need a blade that will absorb incoming speed. Otherwise you block 75% of fast balls long.

This is an old thread, and all responses till now were written before the Re-Impact "Tachi" blade was released. It is expensive but was purpose built after extensive testing and proto-types, specifically to give amazing control (over the table) with DTecs OX. As a bonus it has a faster side for inverted or short pips.

I will add a review on it once I've had more match time.

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