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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2016, 15:07 
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Hello,
Im thinking about getting a new racket and was wondering what you guys would recommend. I want to get an all round blade and spinny rubber, both with good control. I want an arylate carbon blade with a tacky rubber and hard sponge on the forehand for looping and a grippy rubber and soft sponge on the backhand for rpb. My budget is $100.
Thanks in advance.


Last edited by Bobobo on 28 Jan 2016, 04:01, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 27 Jan 2016, 21:04 
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Blade: Donic Waldner Senso V1
FH: Donic Baracuda Big Slam
BH: Victas Triple Regular
How long have you been playing Bobobo and where do you play? Home, work, a club?
What bat have you been using and why do you want a fast blade and spinny rubber.
I'm approaching this as though you haven't had much to do with equipment and are perhaps a decent garage/recreational player. Sorry if this is not the case.
Usually the faster the blade and more spinny, the less control you have. Often control simply means easy to keep the ball on the table. A fast blade is harder to keep on the table as the ball goes long, a spinny rubber is also harder to keep on the table (there are exceptions) as it reacts to opponents spin.
I've ordered many bats for club players and they have often said that their new custom allround set up is 'fast and spinny'.
If you are coming from a sports store bat then any allround set up will be a great step up. Something like one of the Donic Allplays with Lkt pro xp.
If you really want fast and spinny, and specific to your request you could get something like a Galaxy T series with aralyte carbon maybe a Dhs Hurricane/Skyline or Haifu Whale on forehand and Lkt pro xp for backhand.
Not sure how they actually match up with each other.

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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2016, 00:36 
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Cobalt wrote:
How long have you been playing Bobobo and where do you play? Home, work, a club?
What bat have you been using and why do you want a fast blade and spinny rubber.
I'm approaching this as though you haven't had much to do with equipment and are perhaps a decent garage/recreational player. Sorry if this is not the case.
Usually the faster the blade and more spinny, the less control you have. Often control simply means easy to keep the ball on the table. A fast blade is harder to keep on the table as the ball goes long, a spinny rubber is also harder to keep on the table (there are exceptions) as it reacts to opponents spin.
I've ordered many bats for club players and they have often said that their new custom allround set up is 'fast and spinny'.
If you are coming from a sports store bat then any allround set up will be a great step up. Something like one of the Donic Allplays with Lkt pro xp.
If you really want fast and spinny, and specific to your request you could get something like a Galaxy T series with aralyte carbon maybe a Dhs Hurricane/Skyline or Haifu Whale on forehand and Lkt pro xp for backhand.
Not sure how they actually match up with each other.

Ive been playing for about 6 months and i play at a club. Ive been using a chinese real with friendship 802 40 on the forehand and sriver on the backhand. I wanted to get a fast and spinny blade because i just wanted something new. Are there any all round or slower atylate carbon blade, i think that would be better for me as you said.


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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2016, 06:14 
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Blade: Juic Hinoki One Ply
FH: Tibhar 5Q
BH: Scandal
A lot of top players in China favor Sriver FX on the backhand. It is plenty fast for top players and they will spin you right off the table. Your -40 rubber is not exactly slow but not as spinny as a lot of inverted rubbers. If you go to fast inverted rubber on the forhand, you will have to read incoming spin better.
No free lunch. ;)


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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2016, 08:24 
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Blade: Donic Waldner Senso V1
FH: Donic Baracuda Big Slam
BH: Victas Triple Regular
If were you I'd forget the carbon stuff at this stage and just go with a quality all wood 5 ply blade. Your 802-40 is short pips? This rubber I believe is about 60% as spinny as an inverted rubber so most inverted rubbers will spin more. The sriver should be fine.

Where would you order from?

I'll stick to my earlier post and suggest something like
Yasaka Sweden Extra (a bit harder feel)
Donic Appelgren Allplay/ Senso V1 (softer feel)

Add some sheets of
LKT Rapid Soft (a bit tacky)
Yasaka Original Extra XHG (non-tacky)

This set up should be enough to take you a fair way in your club or at least for 12 months to 2 years where you can then upgrade your rubbers.

Note that a couple of the best players at my club have recently 'downgraded' there bats from OFF/OFF+ to ALL+ to get more control. There speed hasn't really suffered as they hit the ball well enough anyway. You should be able to get plenty out of an ALL+ blade.

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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2016, 09:20 
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Since the budget is a consideration...

Yinhe makes a lot of blades with arylate carbon. They are about $35 each from what I've seen. Usually copies of butterfly ones.

Forehand you want tacky, so you want Chinese. Plenty of choices - zeropong has stuff like 729-8 which is tacky/hard. Many others pretty similar to it too. $15 or so.

So for the backhand it sounds like you want something softer - find an ESN rubber on the softer side and go for it, cost you between $30 and $50. Tabletennis11.com has specials, wait for one to come on sale that's a soft version and it'll be like $30.


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PostPosted: 28 Jan 2016, 15:41 
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unfortunately I have too many blades. started with wood @100 dollars to complex stiga xiom rubber combinations. costing well over $500. like almost anything you do get what you pay for but I had the advantage of going to a store albeit in asia, to handle the blades, hit a few and talk to experts there. since you play at a club try hitting a few strokes with the other players there. btw. shriver...great rubber to start with.


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PostPosted: 29 Jan 2016, 12:36 
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You already have a great blade (Chinese Real by Butterfly) and a nice BH rubber (Sriver). Why not just change the FH rubber? Say 729-8 tacky or 729-5 non-tacky.
A good CPen blade is YEO (Yasaka Extra Offensive). It loops better than the Chinese Real. The Chinese Real is a great traditional "hitting" blade with excellent control and power close to the table.


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PostPosted: 04 Feb 2016, 12:42 
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shaolinTT wrote:
You already have a great blade (Chinese Real by Butterfly) and a nice BH rubber (Sriver). Why not just change the FH rubber? Say 729-8 tacky or 729-5 non-tacky.
A good CPen blade is YEO (Yasaka Extra Offensive). It loops better than the Chinese Real. The Chinese Real is a great traditional "hitting" blade with excellent control and power close to the table.

+1
I would say stay with the Chinese Real. If you want something new, then change the rubber but not the blade, unless you are willing to increase your budget significantly.

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PostPosted: 04 Feb 2016, 15:23 
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I got it! Get a stiga clipper classic at paddle palace. put xiom omega IV on your forehand side. play traditional Chinese until you save $50 more for the reverse side.


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