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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 03:36 
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brokkie wrote:
Interresting :devil: :devil:

Leatherback, is it high throw like H3? At tabletennisdb they rate it medium throw. I know that rating on tabletennisdb is sometimes off but.....

I have never understood what people mean by "throw"....if it is the angle that spin bounces off from a flat blade I would find it slightly higher then H3...but this is not usually a factor that matters to me too much...it's such a small adjustment of angle to fix so called "throw" that it is negligible....

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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 03:38 
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tabesamis wrote:
I'm interested to see if this Chops better on the FH than Tenergy 05 and how much I will lose on the loop. I've tried it before but never on my current blade...

By lose you mean spin and speed? It's not as fast as t05 on flat impact....but it provides more spin when you brush.


Most higher level people like softer for chopping....if this is the case for you it won't chop as well...

But if you like harder then this will chop better.

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PostPosted: 19 Dec 2016, 12:03 
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My forehand Chop is probably the least developed stroke in my game. So I don't really think it will make much of a difference. As far as looping I tend to brush more. The reason I'm looking into this is because I started training with a coach again a few months ago, and my coach wants to develop my forehand chop now. As far as long pips I find a softer sponge easier to chop with, but I don't like it too soft either. So I guess it probably won't matter much since its just an adjustment. I do like the idea of having easier control in the short game with a slightly slower rubber but don't wanna give up too much on the loop thats all. I'll probably try it after my next tournament. That way I can have a proper time for adjustment.

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PostPosted: 22 Dec 2016, 19:36 
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Im on YRD for the past 8 months now. I can say that from the 3 sheets of Max-thickness YRD ( 2 black and 1 red ) that I bought with about 6 months gap, there are differences.

1. Black YRD has black sponge which is similar to the Carbo-sponge of Xiom ( I used to use Xiom Omega V Tour ) in terms of hardness and even the pores.

2. Red YRD has red sponge which is much softer and seems to have larger pores than the black.

3. The 2 Black YRDs have a weight difference. The first one I bought uncut weighs in at 75grams. While the newer 1 month old YRD weighs in at 67grams. Other than the weight I haven't seen any other differences between the 2 sheets ! :-D

The slight tackiness of YRD is there for both Black and Red sheets as the two topsheets seem to be the same quality and material. The topsheets are extremely grippy as well as having the slight tack despite 8 months of play. The sheets still look brand new and play the same!

It is supremely easier to opening loop, flick and attack with the Red rubber while way way way more comfortable to loop/counter-loop and much harder to push/chop with the Black.

I was shocked with the amount of control when blocking with either Red or Black. Normally with Chinese rubbers you have to have very fine control blocking to prevent the ball popping up too much or just dropping into the net or flying off the other end.

And chopping and pushing suffers a little here. I have to "add" some mechanical spin by brushing across the ball against incoming underspin while lifting slightly. Just touching with the flat rubber reacts a lot to incoming spin causing the ball to go flat long and very fast :-D.

The quality of all the YRD sheets are topnotch. i haven't seen any bumps on the topsheets or cavities in the sponge or any marks or changes in properties of any of the 3 sheets.

Andy is absolutely right about YRD feeling like a H3N/H3 boosted @ 39deg but without the insane tack on a new H3N/H3. I have a H3N red boosted and a red H3-50 boosted on some old blades.

YRD is a medium-low-throw and not as low-low-throw as H3 rubbers usually are. Think of a flatter Rakza7 throw behaviour but on a semi-tacky topsheet.

YRD is not blistering fast. You can do close-table loops, mid-loops and faraway loops comfortably.

YRD serves well, not with insane spin but almost linearly. More you brush greater the spin generated. But during play it behaves more Chinese for loops/drives/attacks and serves/chop/push almost like a Euro/Jap rubber.

Hope what I said makes sense :-D And someone finds it useful.

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Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
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    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
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PostPosted: 23 Dec 2016, 04:36 
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would you say it can be a substitute for a H3N? if yes what would be advantages and what the disadvantages in comparison?

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PostPosted: 23 Dec 2016, 07:15 
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H3N has a lot of tack. YRD is only slightly tacky but more grippy. Hence with both rubbers (YRD / H3 ) I think the reason why it is easier to loop rather than flat/smash at any distance.

You can still smack the ball with YRD and it does go quite a bit faster than H3. H3N has a lot of spin just due to the tack but it doesn't do "mechanical" spin until you step faraway from the table. Sponge is too hard even after boosting it.

Mid-distance and long loops in my opinion are where H3N is really really good at and close to the table you have to resort to flick or long push to get the rally going and it isn't very forgiving. H3 makes you work hard.

Strange enough that for push / chops YRD behaves almost similar to H3N. You have to lift lightly to get the ball to clear the net due to low throw but not as much as you would with H3N. YRD gives a little back by making it possible to add your own side/under/top spins on extremely short balls. You control the option to push long or drop really short by how much you brush to add the spin and to place it wherever on the table. YRD has a slight problem here. You really can't add even a touch of forward momentum, just how much you lift and add spin determines the length and height the ball will travel. Against heavy underspin balls, a light lift allows the ball to float all the way to the white line :-) If you run forward and jab, the ball is blasted into the net, or into the far wall without landing on the table. I don't think I've seen this kind of sensitivity to spin on receives with Rakza7 or any Euro rubbers and only a medium to slight reaction with Chinese rubbers.

If I wanted to play fast and furious, the Red YRD is superfast and forgiving, its like playing with Rakza7 ! :-D The Black side feels more H3N with the slow, long counter-topspin, loop-kills, loop-drive etc so if I am feeling little tired and want to slow the game or gain more control YRD Black seems to work well.

If you are looking for a H3N / H3 replacement, I am not sure due to the differences, but it can't hurt to try it out the Black YRD.

If you want a more Euro_Jap the Red YRD will fit in nicely :-)

And the good thing is YRD doesn't need any boosting ! No more peeling rubbers off rackets and re-gluing for days :-D
:clap:

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Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
    High Technology
    Cypress-Carbon(ST)
    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
==========================================================


Last edited by man_iii on 27 Dec 2016, 09:09, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 25 Dec 2016, 03:16 
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tnx for the exhaustive replay...

when i read all this, it really doesnt seem that IT is a H3N replacement i am (maybe) looking for...

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PostPosted: 26 Dec 2016, 12:35 
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YRD is definitely NOT a direct 1-to-1 replacement for any H3 / H3N highly tacky chinese rubbers. Rather YRD seems to be for players who are "in-between" and stuck with either Chinese rubbers ( unable to sustain a drawn out push rally , inconsistent short attack to rally, loop kills too slow ) or with Euro/Jap rubbers ( unable to touch play, suffering from blocking, uncontrollable speed from tensors ). So YRD allows to be able to carry out highly sensitive push rallies that your opponent cannot attack very easily. Easy to flick / opening attack and continue the loop-counterloop rallies. Block effectively and placement with accuracy. Loop-drive / Loop-kill / Smash with sufficient strength to get the power. Serve good enough.

So there are some "hybrid" players, who have a Chinese-style loop with Euro / Jap style control play. Even dare I say Korean style modern defenders/ all-round players ? So YRD works out very well for such "hybrid" all-round players giving them the so-called "gears" with short-, mid- and long- distance play.

YRD doesn't suit the players looking for a ton of speed, or a ton of spin, or magical block / push / chop.

YRD suffers from both Chinese tacky and Euro_Jap tensor rubber weaknesses but to a much reduced degree. I think I read somewhere about there being some "gap" before Chinese rubber sponges engage much later than tacky rubber effect wears off. Well with YRD that gap is significantly reduced allowing attacks from all distances.

Like I said before YRD seems to allow you to do the "mechanical" spin and tacky spin all the way from short- mid- and faraway- distances based on your stroke selection. You could do a semi-contact brush to return a deceptively high-spin ball with a very low arc with a short compact stroke. I believe tensor technology allows for a strong contact with short duration to generate high spin ... but it would impart a significant amount of speed as well, while the tacky rubber requires for a longer contact with exaggerated movement to give the spin with reduced speed either you drive or loop but not both.

I think when you boost Chinese rubbers, you get that springy tensor sponge effect as well as keep the tackiness effect which is what YRD has successfully done. :o :clap:

Mind you, I have 729 OEM original ----SuperFX----- boosted with Falco and the effect matches every aspect of YRD ! 729 OEM ----SuperFX---- is like ~5 - 10 USD ? :-) while YRD is @ 25-30USD :lol: But Yasaka QC ! more than makes up for that price difference. :up: :rofl:

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
    High Technology
    Cypress-Carbon(ST)
    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
==========================================================


Last edited by man_iii on 02 Feb 2017, 05:29, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 26 Dec 2016, 23:36 
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man_iii wrote:
YRD is definitely NOT a direct 1-to-1 replacement for any H3 / H3N highly tacky chinese rubbers. Rather YRD seems to be for players who are "in-between" and stuck with either Chinese rubbers ( unable to sustain a drawn out push rally , inconsistent short attack to rally, loop kills too slow ) or with Euro/Jap rubbers ( unable to touch play, suffering from blocking, uncontrollable speed from tensors ). So YRD allows to be able to carry out highly sensitive push rallies that your opponent cannot attack very easily. Easy to flick / opening attack and continue the loop-counterloop rallies. Block effectively and placement with accuracy. Loop-drive / Loop-kill / Smash with sufficient strength to get the power. Serve good enough.

So there are some "hybrid" players, who have a Chinese-style loop with Euro / Jap style control play. Even dare I say Korean style modern defenders/ all-round players ? So YRD works out very well for such "hybrid" all-round players giving them the so-called "gears" with short-, mid- and long- distance play.

YRD doesn't suit the players looking for a ton of speed, or a ton of spin, or magical block / push / chop.

YRD suffers from both Chinese tacky and Euro_Jap tensor rubber weaknesses but to a much reduced degree. I think I read somewhere about there being some "gap" before Chinese rubber sponges engage much later than tacky rubber effect wears off. Well with YRD that gap is significantly reduced allowing attacks from all distances.

Like I said before YRD seems to allow you to do the "mechanical" spin and tacky spin all the way from short- mid- and faraway- distances based on your stroke selection. You could do a semi-contact brush to return a deceptively high-spin ball with a very low arc with a short compact stroke. I believe tensor technology allows for a strong contact with short duration to generate high spin ... but it would impart a significant amount of speed as well, while the tacky rubber requires for a longer contact with exaggerated movement to give the spin with reduced speed either you drive or loop but not both.

I think when you boost Chinese rubbers, you get that springy tensor sponge effect as well as keep the tackiness effect which is what YRD has successfully done. :o :clap:

Mind you, I have 729 SuperFX boosted with Falco and the effect matches every aspect of YRD ! 729SuperFX is like ~5 - 10 USD ? :-) while YRD is @ 25-30USD :lol: But Yasaka QC ! more than makes up for that price difference. :up: :rofl:


Respectfully disagree.

I have used H3 for 95% percent of my table tennis career, everyone has different strokes (racket head speed, wrist snap, brush, style) so I find the ability to comment on what a rubber is good for almost impossible to do except in comparison to my own mechanics,

However I can comment on feel.

And for me it is the closest thing in feel to a boosted H3 I have ever played with.

It does have slightly less tack yes. But it is still tacky enough to stick a ball to it.



Also as a side note. I find there is far to much stress on "Chinese vs European stroke mechanics".

It doesn't matter. The point of contact on the ball is a fraction of a second and as long as your racket head is moving at the correct angle and correct speed at that second you are good to go. If you gave Ma Long tenergy on his forehand his stroke would not change noticeably to anyone but himself. Contrary if you gave Timo boll hurricane on his forehand his stroke would not change either.

Both of them however may not like the change due to FEEL, not spin, not speed not "length of time on the racket" or ability to have a "better loop".

I'm not a pro. But I can comment on my feel. And H3 and yRD have very similar feels.

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PostPosted: 27 Dec 2016, 00:57 
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729SuperFX is like ~5 - 10 USD ? :-) while YRD is @ 25-30USD :lol: But Yasaka QC ! more than makes up for that price difference. :up: :rofl:

Where the heck do you fond it for 23-30 USD? I've not seen that price anywhere.

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PostPosted: 27 Dec 2016, 02:41 
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Tomorrow I will try my black YRD for the first time. It will replace my Victas V15 Extra on my main blade.

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PostPosted: 27 Dec 2016, 03:48 
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I agree that what a player "FEELS" is definitely going to affect how the individual reviews the rubber. Such as it is there are always players who don't have the full Chinese mechanics or the full Euro_Jap mechanics either due to motor skills, or physical strength or reaction impulse. I probably will never break the 1200 rating let alone 1500 or 1700 :-) Doesn't mean I don't want equipment that can help me progress or play to my peak abilities which may be just very crap :D

YRD will work very well for either Chinese players or Euro_Jap players. For you it plays very similar to Chinese rubbers like H3 without even boosting. For someone else it might play like Rakza7 :D

Maybe for some players YRD feels extremely dead or too lively. And I can only give my perspective and opinion. If you have any experiences similar to mine, you can draw parallels from what I describe and it should be similar enough for you. If you are a very high level player and go through a different view and experience, then someone else who is at your level and wavelength can review much much better than my crappy one :D

So I request anyone else to review a bit more objectively than the one I did.

And the cheaper priced rubbers can be found with local wholesale suppliers or regional online sellers who give really good deals but depends on the season/ fire-sale. The guy I bought my YRD from doesn't do online sales. |-)

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__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
    High Technology
    Cypress-Carbon(ST)
    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 27 Dec 2016, 04:07 
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I think this discussion emphasizes the problem with forum reviews - you frequently have no idea how to interpret them since reviewer's level and play style are not obvious.

So, here we have ~2150 modern defender ('leatherback') vs. ~1200 player ('man_iii') with pretty different opinions about the rubber. What do you do with these then (rhetorical question :) )? And what would you conclude if you did not know enough about forum members?

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PostPosted: 27 Dec 2016, 09:02 
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Wow ! leatherback is 2150! and that too a modern defender !!! omg !!! :-D He would probably wipe the floor with me. Btw I am flattered that you would say I am ~1200 :lol: :x I said I wish !!! I could even get to that level :D :lol:

There is a lot of difference between what a high-level player can do with high-end rubbers :-) My review is based on my weaknesses and that YRD helped me in those areas. I have been EJ'ing quite a bit and YRD has become my favorite so far. It's a keeper :-) 8 months and it still feels like brand new rubber to me :-)

I guess that YRD can help low-level players and can function very effectively for high-level players. So I dont need to EJ with more rubbers ! :D But I guess on the side I will keep ordering just for fun :lol: I do have like 3 - 4 extra blades just lying around :lol:

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
    High Technology
    Cypress-Carbon(ST)
    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 27 Dec 2016, 10:14 
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man_iii wrote:
Wow ! leatherback is 2150! and that too a modern defender !!! omg !!! :-D He would probably wipe the floor with me. Btw I am flattered that you would say I am ~1200 :lol: :x I said I wish !!! I could even get to that level :D :lol:

There is a lot of difference between what a high-level player can do with high-end rubbers :-) My review is based on my weaknesses and that YRD helped me in those areas. I have been EJ'ing quite a bit and YRD has become my favorite so far. It's a keeper :-) 8 months and it still feels like brand new rubber to me :-)

I guess that YRD can help low-level players and can function very effectively for high-level players. So I dont need to EJ with more rubbers ! :D But I guess on the side I will keep ordering just for fun :lol: I do have like 3 - 4 extra blades just lying around :lol:


To clarify - I was using USATT scale here - not sure what you had in mind when you quoted 1200 estimates (which is a very reasonable goal in the US, btw). If you were using TTR or something else, then perhaps you are better than you think :).

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