OOAK Table Tennis Forum


A truly International Table Tennis Community for both Defensive and Offensive styles!
OOAK Forum Links About OOAK Table Tennis Forum OOAK Forum Memory
It is currently 29 Mar 2024, 18:17


Don't want to see any advertising? Become a member and login, and you'll never see an ad again!



All times are UTC + 9:30 hours




Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next
Author Message
 Post subject: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 01 Mar 2017, 15:05 
Offline
Super User

Joined: 04 Dec 2012, 01:32
Posts: 237
Location: Chesapeake, Virginia
Has thanked: 13 times
Been thanked: 17 times
Only video I've found.

https://youtu.be/ma8wD9N0GT0


Now if only I could translate

Wonder what others do. I've ruined a few blades experimenting.


Top
 Profile  
 


 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 01 Mar 2017, 17:29 
Offline
Goes to 11
Goes to 11
User avatar

Joined: 13 Jan 2014, 20:27
Posts: 10671
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 1384 times
From what I can see - he's removing material from two places. 1) The corners on the front face of the blade, where the forefinger and thumb hook around, and 2) behind the handle, where the web between thumb and forefinger come up against the back of the handle. I think (2) gets sanded if the diameter of the handle is too large for a comfortable grip. I noticed that LKT had already sanded (1) on my Instinct, even though it was a shakehands blade. Maybe just to standardize manufacturing steps over all blades. Note he's sanding a Clipper, those red plies make it easy to see what's been removed and where.

I think the BIG lesson here is (as model airplane enthusiasts all know) - USE A SANDING BLOCK! Didn't expect such a large-diameter one, though. For relieving the bits where the finger and thumb hook round the front I think a small sanding cylinder on a Dremel might work OK.

Don't even think of just using your fingers and a sheet of sandpaper.

Maybe we can get EmRatThich to translate/comment on the video for us.. :lol:

Iskandar


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 01 Mar 2017, 19:57 
Offline
Super User

Joined: 22 Dec 2016, 16:35
Posts: 691
Has thanked: 101 times
Been thanked: 117 times
Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
FH: Yasaka Rakza X
BH: Palio Thor
Also I think composite blade material might be harder than expected and might not sand the same way as the surrounding wood :P We might end up damaging the plies ? I personally prefer the sharp edges as it gives me good feel for very tiny adjustments to the blade angle. It could make a difference between me landing the ball exactly on the white line versus not landing on the table at all :rofl:

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
    1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
    High Technology
    Cypress-Carbon(ST)
    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
==========================================================


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 11:30 
Offline
New Member

Joined: 09 Mar 2017, 11:16
Posts: 2
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 0 time
Blade: yasaka ma lin
just was thinking about sanding my blade and found this.

roughly what he's saying -

if you have small hands sand the sides of the handle narrower.

on the part where your index finger wraps around, sanding down will increase comfort.

on the other side where your thumb presses, only sand a little, or your thumb grip will slide off.

on the back you can sand some where the handle presses on your hand to increase grip. sand more on the side of your fingers, to follow the contour of your hand.

I'm thinking about sanding where my index finger wraps around, that is the only place that causes me discomfort but I don't want to take off too much and mess up my grip.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 11:35 
Offline
Dark Knight
Dark Knight
User avatar

Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 12:34
Posts: 33337
Location: Adelaide, AU
Has thanked: 2741 times
Been thanked: 1548 times
Blade: Trinity Carbon
FH: Victas VS > 401
BH: Dr N Troublemaker OX
I only ever sand edges where I make contact with my fingers, usually a bit of sending just with some sandpaper does the trick. I think it's purely personal preference what you need to sand, whatever is comfortable for you. Most people don't bother at all, probably because they don't rest their fingers on any edges.

_________________
OOAK Table Tennis Shop | Re-Impact Blades | Butterfly Table Tennis bats
Setup1: Re-Impact Smart, Viper OX, Victas VS 401 Setup2: Re-Impact Barath, Dtecs OX, TSP Triple Spin Chop 1.0mm Setup3: Re-Impact Dark Knight, Hellfire OX, 999 Turbo
Recent Articles: Butterfly Tenergy Alternatives | Tenergy Rubbers Compared | Re-Impact User Guide


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 11:47 
Offline
I am Legend
I am Legend
User avatar

Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 18:21
Posts: 5997
Location: Queensland
Has thanked: 72 times
Been thanked: 106 times
I tended to sand the edges on mine a fair bit - and used the rolling pin as a sanding block. Primarily index finger, then just take the edge off on thumb. Occasionally flattened the bottom side handle a bit depending on how round it was.
Didn't sand the handle narrower, but did look for blades with narrower handles.

_________________
Chasse Patate


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 13:04 
Offline
Goes to 11
Goes to 11
User avatar

Joined: 13 Jan 2014, 20:27
Posts: 10671
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 1384 times
man_iii wrote:
Also I think composite blade material might be harder than expected and might not sand the same way as the surrounding wood :P We might end up damaging the plies ? I personally prefer the sharp edges as it gives me good feel for very tiny adjustments to the blade angle. It could make a difference between me landing the ball exactly on the white line versus not landing on the table at all :rofl:


Depends on the material. Carbon sands easily because it's hard, doesn't leave ridges. Aramid (Kevlar(tm), Twaron (tm) or what Butterfly calls Arylate) is a lot harder to sand, the fibers are tough. Likely to end up as loose fibers sticking out or as a ridge. Since on a lot of blades the aramid is woven together with carbon, not sure how those would behave. No worries about damaging the plies, the sanding is only around the handle.

Iskandar


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 13:26 
Offline
I am Legend
I am Legend
User avatar

Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 18:21
Posts: 5997
Location: Queensland
Has thanked: 72 times
Been thanked: 106 times
goes fluffy like frayed ends of fabric.
800grit will remove it.

_________________
Chasse Patate


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 17:17 
Offline
Goes to 11
Goes to 11
User avatar

Joined: 13 Jan 2014, 20:27
Posts: 10671
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 1384 times
If you've ever looked into using Kevlar/aramid cloth or fibers in layups, you'd have found it's almost impossible to cut - you need very sharp shears. They sell special Kevlar shears. Otherwise it frays into a mess when you try to cut it.

From the Wikipedia article on aramids..

Quote:
During the 1990s, an in vitro test of aramid fibers showed they exhibited "many of the same effects on epithelial cells as did asbestos, including increased radiolabeled nucleotide incorporation into DNA and induction of ODC (ornithine decarboxylase) enzyme activity", raising the possibility of carcinogenic implications. However, in 2009, it was shown that inhaled aramid fibrils are shortened and quickly cleared from the body and pose little risk.


:lol:

Iskandar


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 10 Mar 2017, 00:50 
Offline
Ninja of the Holy Chtchet
Ninja of the Holy Chtchet
User avatar

Joined: 28 Feb 2014, 13:38
Posts: 2524
Location: Washington DC
Has thanked: 563 times
Been thanked: 512 times
Blade: Koji Matsushita
FH: Tibhar MX-S Max
BH: Yasaka Rising Dragon 2.0
100%, the best way to do this is with a hand rotary tool like a Dremmel. It's stupid to do it any other way. There are several bits to use for sanding in fine detail and in bulk. The only thing I ever do manually with sand paper is maybe to smooth over my work with fine grit when I'm done.

No more fussing with pipes and rolls to negotiate the curves on a blade.

_________________
Blog: "Holy Chtchet!"

Projects: Player Equipment Grid
Comprehensive Thin Inverted Chopping Rubbers Grid ⇝ Please send me corrections or new submissions


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 11 Mar 2017, 11:24 
Offline
The Court Jester
The Court Jester
User avatar

Joined: 23 Apr 2010, 09:33
Posts: 1348
Location: Canada
Has thanked: 4 times
Been thanked: 121 times
I use a rotary handpiece too. Make sure the cutting bur won't rip and gouge the blade.
I wrap the rubbers with Saran wrap so the wood dust won't get on them.
Sand conservatively, then play a game. If you need more, then sand some more. It may take me 2-3 games before I finish sanding. Only you know how much you need to sand.


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 11 Mar 2017, 13:01 
Offline
Senior member

Joined: 25 Mar 2010, 15:50
Posts: 159
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 9 times
Here is how I sand. Cut a small piece of 400 grit sandpaper, roughly the size of the area to be sanded(usually 2" by 1.5"), then hold it with the thumb and index fingers and sand with a steady but light pressure in one direction only, using the thumb as a contour. Repeat a few times, then try to hold it and swing a few times to see how it fits. Repeat the same process if necessary. Usually by the time I am done, the piece of sandpaper would have become 200 grit and perfect for the final touching.

_________________
BTY Viscaria - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 11 Mar 2017, 22:05 
Offline
Goes to 11
Goes to 11
User avatar

Joined: 13 Jan 2014, 20:27
Posts: 10671
Has thanked: 3 times
Been thanked: 1384 times
Hmmmmm... How does the 400 grit turn into 200 grit??

Iskandar


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 11 Mar 2017, 22:16 
Offline
I am Legend
I am Legend
User avatar

Joined: 13 Dec 2006, 18:21
Posts: 5997
Location: Queensland
Has thanked: 72 times
Been thanked: 106 times
magic expando grit

_________________
Chasse Patate


Top
 Profile  
 
 Post subject: Re: Grip sanding.
PostPosted: 12 Mar 2017, 02:08 
Offline
Senior member

Joined: 25 Mar 2010, 15:50
Posts: 159
Has thanked: 0 time
Been thanked: 9 times
That tells me you folks are not used to sanding.

Quote:
3. Once the abrasive on sandpaper of a particular grit has worn down, it is typically still good for doing the same sort of work that a fresh piece of FINER grit sandpaper might be used for.

http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodnews/2010may/alannoel.html

_________________
BTY Viscaria - 91g
+ Neo H3 2.15 Blk - 44.5g(55.3g uncut bare)
+ Hexer HD 2.1 Red - 49.3g(68.5g 〃 〃)
= 184.8g


Top
 Profile  
 
Display posts from previous:  Sort by  
Post new topic Reply to topic  [ 25 posts ]  Go to page 1, 2  Next




All times are UTC + 9:30 hours


Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 10 guests


You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum

Search for:
Jump to:  
Copyright 2018 OOAK Table Tennis Forum. The information on this site cannot be reused without written permission.

Powered by phpBB® Forum Software © phpBB Group