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PostPosted: 02 May 2017, 01:23 
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According to my coach (former international level modern defender) 0.5mm is the sweet spot. Gives you options to attack, vary spin, but still has some pimple effect and reversal for closer-to-the-table shots.

He (and consequently I) uses 0.5mm Dtecs.

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PostPosted: 08 May 2017, 19:12 
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Japsican wrote:
Ridderz, we are around the same level give or take, so take this advice for what it's worth.

But for me, when thinking about sponge size and LP there are 3 things I consider.

1- "How much do I rely on the opponents spin?"
Meaning, is my intent to borrow spin or manipulate spin? I think many of us are not honest with ourselves as to just how good our chop stroke is, and how much spin we are adding? Some of us aspire to create variation, but again often time we are not varying to the degree we think we are. And even if we do vary the ball from time to time, the amount of variation created is pretty minimal, even in thicker sponges. The place where variation is most notable is in the short game and vs. no-spin usually against players that are savvy on how to play LPs. But as Leatherback is fond of remind us, the spin is the least important thing to consider in chopping. Just keep your chops low and long, and your consistency should win out vs. the looper either with their error or with you being able to pounce on a ball that is ripe for an attack.

Also, if you are pretty descent at twiddling, your variation can be had there anyway.

2- "How much torouble do I have controlling spin?"
If I struggle to keep chops low and on the table vs. VERY spinny players...then i want a more slippery pip, and then thinner sponge is going to help. Also, if you notice an issue with chopping loops with lots of side-spin, thinner sponge is more controllable.

3- "How much trouble do I have controlling pace?" Vs. very heavy hitters, some people find OX too hard to deal with for chopping, and want to cushion the ball with sponge. Sometimes it's just for feeling and they want more dwell time. Sponge might help with pace.

If I really analyze my game and my level, I find that I don't struggle vs. spinny loopers till around 2100. But I do struggle vs. those with lots of sidespin, and so a thinner sponge is better. I also strugge vs. soft no-spin players and for me thinner sponge is actually more difficult, but I'm noticing that with practice that is getting better for me in both LP and Inverted play.


I have been told by some players ranked a lot higher than me, that I have gotten very close to beating, that I'm really tricky to play against and that I chop well. I do find however, when I come up against heavy hitters, where the pace is strong and the shots are fast, that I do struggle a lot. Against people who heavy spin but the pace isn't so strong, I'm fine. I just keep chopping the ball back time after time. I think where I struggle most is against quick players and players who hit the ball a lot harder.

I don't know whether to use 0.5 or 1.0mm?!?! LOL


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PostPosted: 08 May 2017, 23:04 
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^^against heavy hitters who try and blow u off the table i recommend Nittaku Best Anti in 2mm-im using it on a defplay.very hard loops can be blocked or chopped and give a nasty return.chops are precise.you must try it mate.its very secure .

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PostPosted: 08 May 2017, 23:18 
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peterpong wrote:
^^against heavy hitters who try and blow u off the table i recommend Nittaku Best Anti in 2mm-im using it on a defplay.very hard loops can be blocked or chopped and give a nasty return.chops are precise.you must try it mate.its very secure .


I suspect playing with anti is quite different from LP, be it in 0.5 or 1.0 sponge - not sure if OP is looking for a change that dramatic. Also, IIRC, ridderz65 is more of a chopper, and in my experience anti players stay closer to the table.

I do plan to try out anti some time in the future though, just for fun :devil:

As far as being blown of by heavy hitters - not sure it's an equipment problem. I keep hearing that one needs to pay attention to previous shots (spin, placement, height) so that not to allow devastating attack, and/or improve footwork. Easier said than done, of course.

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PostPosted: 08 May 2017, 23:38 
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I love watching Gionis play, and have done for the last 4/5 years. I think I may just get a 90g+ japan korbel and 0.5mm Feint Long II and see how I do. I could try 1.1mm Feint II and ask my training partners which is more difficult to play against.

I do play with the Joo blade now, so the speed of the blades wont be too different. I will also try 0.5mm P1R too.

If I ever feel I want more control I could always go for a slower blade like the hadrawshield.


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PostPosted: 10 May 2017, 06:33 
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ridderz65 wrote:


I do find however, when I come up against heavy hitters, where the pace is strong and the shots are fast, that I do struggle a lot. Against people who heavy spin but the pace isn't so strong, I'm fine. I just keep chopping the ball back time after time. I think where I struggle most is against quick players and players who hit the ball a lot harder


Our club's top player (roughly UK #70) can either spin the ball massively or hit it very hard.

When my coach plays against him (I've only seen training matches, where they're about 50/50) when facing hard hits, he drops back just a little and blocks or chop blocks with very soft hands. This seems very effective. If the ball is spun, he'll drop back further and chop.


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PostPosted: 10 May 2017, 08:00 
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pgpg wrote:
peterpong wrote:
^^against heavy hitters who try and blow u off the table i recommend Nittaku Best Anti in 2mm-im using it on a defplay.very hard loops can be blocked or chopped and give a nasty return.chops are precise.you must try it mate.its very secure .


I suspect playing with anti is quite different from LP, be it in 0.5 or 1.0 sponge - not sure if OP is looking for a change that dramatic. Also, IIRC, ridderz65 is more of a chopper, and in my experience anti players stay closer to the table.

I do plan to try out anti some time in the future though, just for fun :devil:

As far as being blown of by heavy hitters - not sure it's an equipment problem. I keep hearing that one needs to pay attention to previous shots (spin, placement, height) so that not to allow devastating attack, and/or improve footwork. Easier said than done, of course.

if going for anti i would try juic neo first as its excellent for chopping in 2mm-im using it on a cut down defplay.

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PostPosted: 20 May 2017, 04:28 
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Blade: Donic Defplay Senso
FH: 729 Geospin Tacky 2.15
BH: TSP Curl P1-R 1.0
Did TSP change the sponge behind Curl P1R, or simply the way they spec it? I see people talking about 0.5mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm etc but when I look at P1R listed online it's available in:
  • OX
  • 0.3-0.6mm
  • 1.0-1.3mm
  • 1.4-1.7mm

It's odd that there's a gap from 0.6 to 1.0mm, and the center-points of the ranges don't quite line up with the nominal sizes people talk about.

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PostPosted: 20 May 2017, 07:49 
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kaesees wrote:
Did TSP change the sponge behind Curl P1R, or simply the way they spec it? I see people talking about 0.5mm, 1.0mm, 1.5mm etc but when I look at P1R listed online it's available in:
  • OX
  • 0.3-0.6mm
  • 1.0-1.3mm
  • 1.4-1.7mm

It's odd that there's a gap from 0.6 to 1.0mm, and the center-points of the ranges don't quite line up with the nominal sizes people talk about.


I like the way TSP write them though, so we can aware how precise their cut is, and 0.01 mm precise for heavy machinery more likely "market speech". Come on, I definitely sure rubber expand or contract due to temperature more than 0.01 mm ;)

But,

My hunch, that the sample distribution is not normal, but heavily skewed to maximum thickness on each group. That way, they leave 0.5 mm diff between each thickness, which enough for most low levels players To realize how difference they have played. ;)

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