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PostPosted: 03 Mar 2017, 07:16 
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Def-attack wrote:
What blade did you mount Aggressor on?

I currently have it on a BBC Excalibur blade that I ordered in a stiff 8.0mm thickness.

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PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 02:04 
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Blade: DMS Revolution
FH: DHS Hurricane 3 NEO
BH: DMS Mega Block 1.5
I moved it to a stiffer and slightly faster blade. Like night and day - so much better. But still I have only played very briefly with it... But if you want to try this rubber, make sure to have a few different blades to try it on.

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PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 03:35 
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Put a sheet of 1.3 Black Aggressor on a Nittaku Ludeack penhold. In short: Found it entirely too fast for my penhold backhand chop blocking style. As others have said attacking is dangerous for the opponent, the ball will have little spin and slides, but attacking is very hard to keep on the table consistently.

Unhappy with the speed I took the sponge off and used the Aggressor in OX last night for a short while on the same Ludeack racket. The top sheet is still far too fast for controlled placements, only good for attacking balls above the level of the net really, but the attack must have perfect trajectory as little to no spin is generated to give control. Perhaps 1.5 sponge would actually be better control allowing some sinking into the sponge and grip on the ball.

My own personal first test of any medium pip or long pip is to hand throw a marked ball into the blade with known spin applied by the fingers. If you do this with a variety of pips and try hard and soft throws you can rapidly determine what action and reversal or lack of it the pips have. Throw a backspin ball into Tibhar Grass Dtechs for instance and you see the spin come off the rubber slightly diminished and turning in the same direction as it was thrown. Throw it into a short pip and you see the ball grab and kick back opposite to what was thrown.

Throwing the spinning ball into Aggressor 1.3 or Ox produces a dead ball back or a dead ball with a slight spin that has flipped to the side. This behavior is most typical of a medium pip rubber, the stopping spin and occasionally leaving some spin and making it flip. So I'd say by length measurement Aggressor may be "long" but by performance it is medium and also a very difficult medium to use far more difficult than Friendship 563 for example.

Final conclusion, not enough control for me and would require a whole new game and most likely many months to learn to handle it with any confidence.

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PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 04:59 
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Blade: DMS Destroyer
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have any of you guys tried drN Terminator? how does it compare to this Aggressor?

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PostPosted: 09 Mar 2017, 05:05 
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Def-attack wrote:
I moved it to a stiffer and slightly faster blade. Like night and day - so much better. But still I have only played very briefly with it... But if you want to try this rubber, make sure to have a few different blades to try it on.

I have never obtained good results with flexible blades and pips out rubbers, OX or otherwise. But I prefer stiff blades for inverted rubbers, to put things in perspective.

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PostPosted: 13 May 2017, 19:35 
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Blade: DONIC WSUC
FH: Andro Rasant Powergrip
BH: Dr Neubauer Aggressor
Dr Neubauer Aggressor 1.5 black review: (2 months of playing: training and matches)
I don’t know where to start with: this is an amazing medium pip, best one i have tried so far.

-Blocks:
This is not for passive blockers, but for the active ones.
If you block active the ball goes down fast with good speed, the point will be for u. It rarely comes back. It’s more of a dead ball, it can be re – looped but it's deep on the other site of the table.

If you block passive the ball goes up en mostly goes over the table. You can block passive but make sure the the angle is correct. For me it was more of a lottery.

-Chopping:
Chop blocking: you can do this but not much reversal
Chopping long distance: good, fast and controlled, not a lot of reversal.
Some times if you can bend the thick pips, it have much more reversal. But it is not easy to bend them.

-Against no spin bal or balls with back spin:
You can’t just push the ball, you have to make sure you have the right angle. (Open the angle to have a attacking ball). When you push the ball, sometimes it goes high, and the point goes to the opponent.
When the ball is high with backspin, you open to have a top spin ball. Ball is fast and low on the other side of the table.
Agressor is good againts players with LP. The dead to dead battle is indeed for agressor.

-Attacking:
Good attacking possibility. Not a lot of grip but you can drive the ball.
When you attack backspin, it’s goes over the net very quickly with a low return.

-Deception:
Excellent deception, best one i have noticed in a medium pip zo far.
Blocks, returns, attacks,… All comes fast and with a (very) low angle on the other side of the table.
If you can tame this beast, your play can be very dangerous.
Sometimes there are very weird balls to the other side. :devil:


CONCLUSION:
Aggressor(1.5) is a good experience to me. I like it a lot.
The only thing I don’t like is the grip. It is ungrippy, you can’t lift any bal that you want.
If the aggressor had a little bit more grip and was better for passive blocks. Tis one should fit my style completely and perfectly.

Maybe Dr Neubauer KO (new medium pip end of May 2017) or Materialspezialist Shockwave is
a better solution I don’t know. 8) I haven't play them yet, and there is not much of info on the internet or reviews. Just looking for a little bit more grip and more ability to lift the ball (Maybe with a little bit of loss of deception of course) to have the perfect BH rubber :D

Or Maybe I have to learn more with the Agressor and stay practice :D


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PostPosted: 14 May 2017, 12:12 
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Any comparison to Pluto?

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PostPosted: 15 May 2017, 19:21 
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PostPosted: 28 May 2017, 20:24 
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Blade: HRT Clipper 2091
FH: Stiga Boost TC
BH: Dr Neubauer Aggressor
I play with Aggressor 1,8mm (BH) on HRT Clipper 2091 blade (first impression)
I really like this MP , very destructive.
I can side swipe ( left and right ) , lift backspin ball . But , it is very difficult for me to attack high ball , it always going to the net. For passive block , you must sure the angle is correct or the ball come out or going to the net.


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PostPosted: 15 Jun 2017, 04:51 
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Deterred by the weight of this 1.5mm MP, I removed the sponge from a new sheet using the 'clothes iron and towel' method. The sponge is unusually dense and heavy which left a nice light sheet of OX to mount on my blade with a Donic glue sheet.

After testing I can say that I prefer Aggressor OX to 1.5mm. It's not as fast as the sponged version but it's fast enough. Surprisingly, I can now lift the ball with a BH topspin stroke, but the deadlier balls are produced with flatter spinless strokes. Opponents continues to struggle with their timing, both against dead balls and spinning balls. Aggressor OX is really good for doing long low fast serves. The OX version is available on the Dr N website but not at any retailer that I've found. Unfortunately, it's priced the same as the sponged versions.

For those wanting to try the 'clothes iron and towel' method of removing the sponge, place the rubber pips down on an ironing board. Drape a regular towel on top of the sponge side. Then, with clothes iron set to high, steam set to zero, warm the rubber one half at a time while pressing down firmly with the iron. You'll need a good amount of heat in order to penetrate the thick dense sponge, and I found that the glue released from the topsheet better when I used more heat. Once the sponge side is hot, try pulling the two layers apart, starting at a corner. It should release with some resistance, hopefully with the glue staying on the sponge side. You only get one shot at removing the glue from the topsheet: Once you've pulled off the sponge from a section there's no other way to remove the glue, so use more heat than less to avoid excess residual glue on the topsheet.

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PostPosted: 27 Jun 2017, 22:19 
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nathanso wrote:

For those wanting to try the 'clothes iron and towel' method of removing the sponge, place the rubber pips down on an ironing board. Drape a regular towel on top of the sponge side. Then, with clothes iron set to high, steam set to zero, warm the rubber one half at a time while pressing down firmly with the iron. You'll need a good amount of heat in order to penetrate the thick dense sponge, and I found that the glue released from the topsheet better when I used more heat. Once the sponge side is hot, try pulling the two layers apart, starting at a corner. It should release with some resistance, hopefully with the glue staying on the sponge side. You only get one shot at removing the glue from the topsheet: Once you've pulled off the sponge from a section there's no other way to remove the glue, so use more heat than less to avoid excess residual glue on the topsheet.


I like to get a small start on a corner of the sponge separated with my fingers before starting any heating (I usually use the dunk rubber in a pan of barely boiling water method, little by little, dunk heat and peel, dunk heat and peel). That way you have a place to grab and peel right away, don't loose the heat trying to get started and don't scald your finger tips trying to get it going.

Also residual factory glue can sometimes be removed from the bare top sheet by laying something like an old T-shirt on it and using the iron again. The hot glue absorbs into the fabric of the T-shirt and you peel it away and repeat with a clean spot of cloth. Have to sacrifice the T-shirt of course and an old iron is best, it's probably going to get some glue on it at some point.

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PostPosted: 27 Jun 2017, 23:20 
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Blade: DHS Fang Bo 2
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Any one could compare it with Pluto?

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