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PostPosted: 18 Jul 2017, 18:42 
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Blade: Donic Waldner Senso V1
FH: Victas VS401
BH: Victas Triple Regular
As the title suggests, what do you think is more important when choosing equipment, the rubber or the blade. For the purpose of this, lets stick to inverted. If you use pips then of course that could be more important to your game than the blade.

So if you could either choose your blade or rubbers and the other was chosen at random, what would you choose?

Last night we tested several bats including a $4 Kmart blade that I'd taken off the cheap rubber and put on Hexer. It actually played quite well. Had a different feel to it but played fine. Does this mean you could use any blade with your favourite rubber? I'd tend to say you can, with the exception of a super fast stiff blade, but probably for me, give me any blade between ALL and Off-/Off and I'd play similar, however give me really really hard, thin or bouncy rubbers and I think I'd struggle.

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PostPosted: 18 Jul 2017, 21:11 
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Blade: DHS PowerG-9 OFF++
FH: Yasaka Rakza X
BH: Palio Thor
I don't think there is truly black-and-white answer to this question. From looking at the HUGE selection of blades and rubbers today, you can pretty much say that there is no true blade or true rubber.

For most part, Butterfly Viscaria / ALC+ZLC with Tenergy 05+64+80 is perhaps the most likely combo most of the PROs tend to use.

Otherwise it seems to vary quite a lot.

Personally I think the BLADE makes a real difference for each player. And the right choice of a blade can really boost someone's game and it tends to stick with the player longer.

While if you take rubbers, there seems to be more a preference of each player, and more readily replaced or discontinued more often by the manufacturer.

So for me, the Table Tennis blade is a much more critical component of the racket.

70% blade, 30% rubber :-D If you want me to put it in numbers :-D

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Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
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    2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
  • 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
  • TSP Versal :
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    2. FH/BH-*blank*
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
  • Dr. Neubauer
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    ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7
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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2017, 05:41 
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The rubber is vastly more important. I mean you could go from long pips to T05 inverted. That's a dramatic difference, it changes how you play entirely. I'd argue that no blade will ever be close to that much of a difference.

Now if you put rubber into categories (short pips, long pips, inverted etc) then the blade matters more but I still don't think it matters nearly as much. Serves, touch shots all are more brush and never impacted by the blade itself. You could literally stick some rubber on your big cell phone and have the same result with those shots (assuming you could hold it and all of that).

I'll admit tho, I've rarely felt a difference between blades (except the handle), the rubber however...oh my.


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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2017, 07:02 
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BH: ?
Blade. Easy decision for me.

Blade is the one piece of equipment you directly touch. It can be a friend for life as opposed to months. It is the key component in ball to hand synergy. Right handle, right weight, right balance, right veneers, and crucially right feel.

In my experience of helping people choose rubbers, I've lost count of the number of times players have wanted to try X rubber, loved it, tried it on a friends blade bought it and then been disappointed when tgey put it on their own blade. Now I suggest players find a blade that feels right and suits their style first, then I try different rubbers on that blade to make sure they match. Peterpong knows exactly what I mean.

This why I always like to know what blade was used in any rubber review.


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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2017, 07:08 
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Blade: Butterfly Defence Alpha
FH: Donic Slice 40 CD 1.5 mm
BH: LKTStrgr+KokBLuJap 1.1 mm
While rubber has more effect on the whole game,

Proper blade characteristic ensure best player potential achieved. ;)

Come on, Who chop with Tamca? :D :D :D

Sent from my i5E using Tapatalk


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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2017, 07:43 
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I would say "blade". Once I get the blade I like, I stay with it. If necessary (and sometimes unnecessary :lol: ), I order the same blade with the same weight.


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PostPosted: 19 Jul 2017, 10:27 
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Not sure which is "more important", but I find it far easier to tell blades apart than to tell rubbers apart. Blades affect how I play, rubbers don't.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2017, 23:00 
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Blade: Xiom Fuga
FH: DHS Hurricane 3 Neo
BH: Yasaka Rakza 7 Soft
I vote rubber. Going from a super tacky rubber to a non-tacky rubber is a bigger difference to me then switching between slow/fast/soft/stiff blades. I feel like it just affects the stroke and technique more. (And especially serving!)


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PostPosted: 31 Jul 2017, 13:14 
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In the real world of decisions that we ACTUALLY make, blade by far. It is so much harder to find one that is ideal partly because they are made of wood and some luck is involved. Once you do, it is much easier to find rubber. With my favorite blade, there are a vast number of non-tacky offensive rubbers I can be happy with, mostly from Japan and Germany. Pick two sheets randomly from that group, max thicknes, give me a few days, and I should be fine. I have constrained rubber choices some, but I'm not ever going to put long pjps on my blade, or anti, or even slow or classical inverted. I'm also not going to use a tacky Chinese rubber, that is a different world. That still leaves a huge array of rubbers I can choose from all intended for my style of offensive play. So many that there is no way I could ever come cose tontrying them all. Of course I have preferences, but maybe they don't matter much.

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PostPosted: 01 Aug 2017, 19:06 
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Blade: Donic Waldner Senso V1
FH: Victas VS401
BH: Victas Triple Regular
Baal wrote:
With my favorite blade, there are a vast number of non-tacky offensive rubbers I can be happy with, mostly from Japan and Germany. Pick two sheets randomly from that group, max thickness, give me a few days, and I should be fine.


By you narrowing it down so much, doesn't that imply that the rubber is important. Not necessarily more important but important all the same. Its like the other side of the debate saying give me any 5 ply, all wood, off- blade in 5.5-6mm thickness and I should be fine.

What if you had a tacky, hard chinese rubber in say 1.8mm on your favourite blade? How would that compare to picking a rubber sheet from the category above and sticking it on a random Chinese blade from Eacheng?

I'm not sure, just enjoying the discussion.

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PostPosted: 01 Aug 2017, 21:58 
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You can liken it to a race car and get some idea of the answer by asking what's more important, tires or engine?

I'm a blade man, myself. Also think of contribution over time. A blade can be depended to perform nearly the same for years, a sheet of rubber, only months or even weeks.
Then again, can't forget the car driver's talent or that a pro table tennis player can probably beat us using an old shoe for a racket.

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PostPosted: 02 Aug 2017, 11:50 
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Cobalt wrote:
Baal wrote:
With my favorite blade, there are a vast number of non-tacky offensive rubbers I can be happy with, mostly from Japan and Germany. Pick two sheets randomly from that group, max thickness, give me a few days, and I should be fine.


By you narrowing it down so much, doesn't that imply that the rubber is important. Not necessarily more important but important all the same. Its like the other side of the debate saying give me any 5 ply, all wood, off- blade in 5.5-6mm thickness and I should be fine.

What if you had a tacky, hard chinese rubber in say 1.8mm on your favourite blade? How would that compare to picking a rubber sheet from the category above and sticking it on a random Chinese blade from Eacheng?

I'm not sure, just enjoying the discussion.


Again, bear in mind that I said the Real World decisions. I would never use a hard tacky Chinese rubber. Ever. That still leaves about 40 bazillion rubbers the vast majority of which I will never try, all made for more or less the same kind of player, and about 70% of them made by ESN! And I am not going to use a Japanese penhold blade either!

But in fact, both the rubber and the blade matter and there may not be a lot of point in trying to say you have to choose on or the other. For me a 1.8 hard tacky rubber on my blade seems quite terrible. So is a Dr. Neubauer blade intended for pushblockers. I still think the blade is more important for me.

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PostPosted: 02 Aug 2017, 14:55 
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I would say blade (it's difficult to slow a too fast blade) but it's important to select a good blade depending on the rubber you want to play with. Chinese rubber for example work well on blades and not at all on other

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PostPosted: 02 Aug 2017, 18:39 
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In a "real life situation" where I'd have to make that choice for a match situation or similar, I'd pick rubber, specifically Hurricane 3. I find that I can play with that on very fast blades (tried it on a YinHe T-11+ carbon/balsa blade and a "Clipper-like" Friendship L-5), and also slow ones (currently using it on a Friendship W-1, also have an old sheet on a Stiga "toy bat"). From my limited experience, I'd say that the H3 will "normalize" much of the differences in blades. Using H3 would make the most predictable solution for me if I were to pick one or the other.


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PostPosted: 11 Aug 2017, 01:07 
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Blade easily, because you can put 729 FX on any suitable great blade and it'll be an awesome bat. You can put the best rubber in the world on a bad blade and it'll just be horrible :). I always said it's 80% blade and I'll stick to that. :up:. One thing extra.. you can make bad combinations if you don't follow some common sense like, hard sponge for springy blades. Soft sponge for thick blades etc.

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