OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Blade all the way for me

Rubber

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Panda Drive / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max / Play right-handed
XVT balsa carbon 10mm / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Globe 979 Long Pips OX / Play Left-handed shakehand
Stiga Def Wood / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH GD CC LP OX .. Play Left-handed
Cpen SOS Wood / 4H 729 802-40 2.0 / BH GD Talon use righthanded shakehand grip
HARDBAT / Shakehand Hock 3 ply / Friendship Dr Evil OX .. Play Right-handed

rubber

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Chasse Patate

Blubber.

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There's always stuff to improve!

My blog on being a LP defender beyond 2000 USATT and the pips discrimination that comes along with that

I'd argue that proper form and execution is far more important than the equipment in your hands, but my personal opinion on the matter is that the blade is more important than rubber.

I've always treated the blade being the base stats of your speed/control/throw angle of your set up, and rubber adds onto those base stats (or takes away;)) along with the stat of spin. Thus making the blade more important than rubber to me.

An example of my thought process:

If we were to take an inverted rubber. Say Tenergy 05 or any modern tensor rubber, and slap that bad boy on an Carbon OFF+ blade, play with it for a bit, and then take the same rubber and put it on an Def+ or even a All+ blade and then play with that for a while. You would see noticeable differences in the speed, spin, and control of your shots.

I'd also venture to say the same thing if we took any pips with or without sponge and used the above scenario, the outcome would dictate that each blade provides a vastly different ball based off it's base stats alone.

The differences in the above scenario are caused by the base stats of the blade, not the rubber.

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"When in doubt, chop. If still in doubt, chop again" USATT 1607
I.Tibhar Stratus Power Defense; FH: Victas V > 15 Extra 2.0mm; BH: Giant Dragon Meteorite 0.5mm
II. Butterfly Joo Se Hyuk; FH: Butterfly Tenergy 05 1.9mm; BH:Giant Dragon Meteorite 0.5mm
III. Tibhar Stratus Power Wood; FH: Butterfly Tenergy 05 2.1mm; BH: Victas V > 01 Stiff 2.0mm

I think you could change this logic to rubbers as well.

If you had that same Carbon OFF+ blade, put boosted T64 on it, play with it for a bit, and then place a defensive rubber like 1.3mm TSP Triple Spin chop, it would be an entirely different animal. Lighter, butter soft sponge, slow, tacky, and super thin.

so, I think there is a relationship between blade and rubber where each are pretty close in importance. I think "Blubber" is the most accurate.

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Blog: "Holy Chtchet!" ⇝

Projects: Player Equipment Grid ⇝ Comprehensive Thin Inverted Chopping Rubbers Grid ⇝ Please send me corrections or new submissions

Devils advocate scenario on point, a little extreme in the scenario but I'll take it. I'll concede and state that I agree, "blubber" is the correct term.

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"When in doubt, chop. If still in doubt, chop again" USATT 1607
I.Tibhar Stratus Power Defense; FH: Victas V > 15 Extra 2.0mm; BH: Giant Dragon Meteorite 0.5mm
II. Butterfly Joo Se Hyuk; FH: Butterfly Tenergy 05 1.9mm; BH:Giant Dragon Meteorite 0.5mm
III. Tibhar Stratus Power Wood; FH: Butterfly Tenergy 05 2.1mm; BH: Victas V > 01 Stiff 2.0mm

Haha!

I dunno, you went from OFF+ blade to an DEF blade. I went from an OFF rubber to a DEF rubber. Kinda the same. But the poles are the comparison I suppose. Extreme would have been Anti for the DEF rubber. Perhaps a better choice would have been Reflectoid in the same thickness as the T64.

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Blog: "Holy Chtchet!" ⇝

Projects: Player Equipment Grid ⇝ Comprehensive Thin Inverted Chopping Rubbers Grid ⇝ Please send me corrections or new submissions

Neither!

The person holding the bat is the most important part!!!

Far too much money spent equipment - imagine if you spent that time and money on training.....

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Match set up: Nittaku Violin, JP01T, JP03

+1 Best comment so far!

I did have a chuckle at your comment matching up with your Nittaku Violin blade. I remembered my mouth dropping at the price of the violin and acoustic when they came out thinking I'd never spend over 100 dollars for a blade. With 200-300 dollar blades being bought every day, the ole violin is relatively cheap in comparison.. Still too expensive for my taste.

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"When in doubt, chop. If still in doubt, chop again" USATT 1607
I.Tibhar Stratus Power Defense; FH: Victas V > 15 Extra 2.0mm; BH: Giant Dragon Meteorite 0.5mm
II. Butterfly Joo Se Hyuk; FH: Butterfly Tenergy 05 1.9mm; BH:Giant Dragon Meteorite 0.5mm
III. Tibhar Stratus Power Wood; FH: Butterfly Tenergy 05 2.1mm; BH: Victas V > 01 Stiff 2.0mm

Any blade is expensive if you don't know how to use it!

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Match set up: Nittaku Violin, JP01T, JP03

Definitely the rubber, yesterday per Oh Hail Yow at USA Hobby Table Tennis Coalition on Facebook, played with inverted rubber on a 4" x 4" or 10cm x 10cm rubber surface area on a tiny Paddle, went 20-2 games against 5 different players using normal size paddles.

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Panda Drive / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max / Play right-handed
XVT balsa carbon 10mm / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Globe 979 Long Pips OX / Play Left-handed shakehand
Stiga Def Wood / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH GD CC LP OX .. Play Left-handed
Cpen SOS Wood / 4H 729 802-40 2.0 / BH GD Talon use righthanded shakehand grip
HARDBAT / Shakehand Hock 3 ply / Friendship Dr Evil OX .. Play Right-handed

Now I always thought thicker sponge is more spin because of dwell time, and the majority search results seem to agree. If this is, and slower blades also have a longer dwell time, wouldn't that mean that the thick rubber + def blade generates more spin than the thin rubber + off blade?

According to PingSkills the rubber is more important! And PingSkills is always correct!

I also say blubber; the chemistry between the blade and rubber can really matter a lot. If I had to choose one or the other though, I'd say blade for the same reasons that Baal and Debater mentioned.

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Blade: Victas Koji Matsushita Offensive FL
FH: Victas VS > 401 2.0
BH: Victas Spectol S1 1.5

Rating: Recreational Player