OOAK Table Tennis Forum

I had fun attacking backspin with Dornenglanz...

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USATT: 1807 | League: 1887

Yes backspin is what I look for before attacking with LP or anti. I use the existing spin to my advantage. That's classic anti. I have no experience with flanti. Dead balls are more difficult though I find it helps if I can impart a little of my own spin, or flat hit if it's high enough.

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2. S&T Black & White / Armstrong SH-I 1.8 / TSP Curl P3 Alpha R OX

Recently played against Grass Dtecs OX player who was chop-blocking close to the table. The chop-blocked return was coming back almost skidding and low which felt weird to me. If I am loading the ball with spin, shouldn't there be some amount of reversal from LP OX close to the table?

Now when I was looping the ball would arc high and too long. Is this an effect of less spin/ no spin on the plastic ball ? Can someone explain it ? How do I correct for it? Do I just push it back and try looping the next ball ?

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Backup C-pen blades:

• TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
  1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
  2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
• 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
• TSP Versal :
  1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
  2. FH/BH-*blank*

Fun blades:

• Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
• Dr. Neubauer
  High Technology
  Cypress-Carbon(ST)
  ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7

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Sounds like a no-spin or less spin than you anticipated if it's going high/long. That's what most people do with my no-spin balls. They over hit and go high n' long! You can try to hit more through the ball like a drive or add more spin with a more closed angle. If it is the low spin ball, just know that it won't 'bite' into your rubber so when it comes off flat, it will be a kind of floater -- hence why your return goes sailing off, no spin to help keep it under control. That's my armchair analysis just going by your words

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SOULSPIN CUSTOM BLADES
Fh: Spinny rubber
Bh: Not so spinny rubber...

Thanks! So its more a no-spin / less-spin return! I will try that!

Any advice on how to get more grip on the ball ? Or the loop-drive with closed angle the only way I am going to keep the ball on the table ? Also how can I keep the ball from going too long ? Should I brush slowly ? or a faster stroke is needed with forward direction ?

I did notice that my light-brush loop ... almost a flick, did work well but it wasn't consistent. The flick ended up in the net or brushing the net and bouncing out. Is it possible to play a safe return ? I felt the ball was coming at me a little fast and low.

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__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:

• TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
  1. FH/BH-YRakza9/XOmegaVT
  2. FH/BH-TSP Spectol/Yinhe Qing OX
• 729 Bomb C-P : FH/BH-DHS H2 Orig/DHS H3 Orig
• TSP Versal :
  1. FH/BH-XOmegaVA/YJupiter-II
  2. FH/BH-*blank*

Fun blades:

• Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH- DHS TG2Neo/Gewo HypeXT 47
• Dr. Neubauer
  High Technology
  Cypress-Carbon(ST)
  ***************************** : FH/BH-YRakza7/YRakza7

==========================================================

Yes, I lack footwork and many times confidence (for the right reason) to go for FH attack in real tournament play. I also lack stamina in long tournament for continuous FH attacks.

For my part it is question of smart play through the tournament: do I get more points by attacking or is better just to wait for opponets mistake and defend? Same thinking goes also for the smart opponent.

In the practise I attack much more for fun and because of familiar opponets. I also attack with BH for fun, but in real tournaments BH attack is heavily -ev move with pips.

If two defenders are agains each other, it results often in pushing wars, because their defence is better than attack.

For me the difference between 3. and 2. division play is clear, because I have played in both. In 3. division are lot "attackers", who have some good attack shot and they go for it whenever they have remote chance for it. Not a consistent attack, but often very efficient, if it goes to table. Usually those players problem is that they don't look for good spot to attack, so they can be outplayed by smart moves. In the 2. division game is the opposite: players tend to look for the good spot to attack, so that the attack is ev+ move. If I can keep pushing difficult and good defence, opponent get less and less good spots to attack and the result is lots of pushing and other slow stuff.

LAST TOURNAMENT

In last tournament my first game was at 10 am and last game ended 20:30 pm. 10 games in total, which is above my stamina level. Luckily I got few easy wins thanks to my pips to save energy in the way.

Opponent 1. He is clearly lower rated familiar player, a wild, young and agile attacker, who have losed nearly every set against me, when I visit his club. In the tournament he went for the pushing tactics, while in practise he always attacked wildly. He said afterward, that I always outplay him if he tries too much, so he decided to try pushing. And he pushed very well. I was down like 1-2 in sets. It didn't feel good, because in practise I had won every set. My FH attack was not working at all for reason or a another and I lot of games coming ahead in tournament, so I couldn't get too tired of FH pounding, so I had to figure out way to win. So I concentrated on careful pushing and maked more very spinny FH pushes to his FH. He kept on pushing tactics to the end, but I won.

Opponent 2. Lower rated agile young LP defender. His defence defence is better than his attack. With my slowish FH attack I would need lot of stamina to beat him attacking, which could be possible, if I had only one game to play. But the day was young, it was just the starting pool on under 1950 rating and I didn't want to be exhausted. I got quickly 0-2 down in sets, so I decided to go for very careful pushing and eventually I won 3-2.

Opponent 3. Higher rated looper with good top spin defence. I faced him 3 times in that day, one time in pools and 2 times on finals (1950 rating and over 50 years). In first game he tried to attack a lot, but he was cold and made too many mistakes, I barely won 3-2. Second game I won 3-1, becaus my defence was better than his attack. In the third game I was more tired than him and he played smarter, waiting for a good spot to attack. I didn't have much stamina left to attack. So he pushed and pushed and only attacked easiest balls. That was the correct strategy and he won 3-1.

Yes. The Gorilla har more grip and speed and is better for attacking.

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

It's an obvious point, but you'll never develop the confidence to make a FH attack if you don't try it in tournament play.



Sure, I get this. I've certainly won games vs LP players by simply bumping back to them, because I know I'm more consistent. But I wouldn't pick my equipment to optimise for it. It's a very rare situation, and, in order to improve, it's important to develop a strong and confident attack to overcome such players. However, I do understand there's a difference between a tournament match which I must win, and a league or practice match, where it's actually more important for me to play the "right" shot rather than the tactical shot.

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Yasaka Sweden Classic | 802 OX | C8 OX
Check out my blog - LordCope's Latest Learning Log - 10+ years of accumulate mistakes!

Pushing wars happen at all levels. It's a matter of getting the correct 2 styles together. A "Pushing" war between 2 attackers (or wanna be attackers) is certainly a lack of ability. But between 2 choppers, this happens all the time, up to top 200 WR.

Example, Chtchetinine vs. Josip Huzjak:

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Blog: "Holy Chtchet!" ⇝

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lol jap... visually, that match doesn't look much different than when I commit to a pushing rally with those other flatfoots!

But of course there's a difference here -- if you WANT to play that style, versus HAVING to play that style due to an inability to land an attack on the table!

If you're more of a classic defender, then staying in pushing wars isn't a big deal. However, if you'd like to attack the push and find you can't... should be training to do so! Even if it costs you a few tournament points... learning that skill, when under pressure, is crucial to moving on up if you desire an aggressive style. And until my wrist injury, I used to be able to backhand flick just about any ball over - short or long, spinny or dead - but now that I'm not able to wrist flick much at all for the foreseeable future... I stick the anti/LP on there so I can at least wack the pushes back with some speed still.

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SOULSPIN CUSTOM BLADES
Fh: Spinny rubber
Bh: Not so spinny rubber...

slightly related to the subject, today i played with that brand new XIOM ABS ball, the blue one...

it is very different to every plastic ball i played so far...when i saw the color and heard the rocky bounce of the table, i immediately said it is a pure DHS D40 clone, but it is not...

this ball have a very rough surface, almost like its covered with sandpaper...the bounce is noticeably lower than the previous plastic i played...

but the best part was, it spinned on my flanti for almost 4 seconds on my ball spin test i always use with a new ball...

have you guys tried it, is that stiga new ball the same bcs its also ABS?

further testing needed, i played only one game, but 1st impressions were positive...

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My TT blog
I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn my inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.

From your description it sounds very similar to Stiga ABS, with the rough surface. It wears off after a while but it does not change the characteristics much. Donic has a ball that is about the same, Tibhar also. I think they all comes from the same (DHS) factory.

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

I just wrote this in my blog:
Tonight I had a short session (my partner got injured) with Neubauer Power Attack 1,5 mm on BH on a Stiga Carbonado 190 blade and Stiga Perform ball (ABS). I have to say it worked great! I could quite easily counter normal drive strokes and the return sank and had slight back spin but I could do it with ok control once I figured out how hard I should hit.

Atacking back spin was the only part where I found the Gorilla better but PA is good enough. Blocking loops is doable but may need some adjustment and speed dampening with a loos grip of the bat compared to Bison. After a few minutes I felt ok with consitency in blocks also. I never tried returning serves or any match-like playing, that will have to wait (until next week I guess).

But for now I am very satisfied with Powe Attack, it feels like I can do most of the things I could do with Bison and also attack a lot better. It feels great!

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube

just a quick note before further testing...

i tried gorilla 1.2mm yesterday...sadly i dont know was it abs version or the old one...

it is an anti somewhere in between this new frictionless ones and the old grippy ones...

it has just enough grip so you can push underspin serves normally and block or punch against no or a little spiny balls...against heavy topspin you can still do that upward motion and than the spin reversal is very good...

it is much faster than any new dumping sponge anti, so it is a good and a bad thing...i need further testing to see if this is the solution to the new balls, but so far i see that i can be more active and aggressive with it...

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My TT blog
I must not fear. Fear is the mind-killer. Fear is the little death that brings total obliteration. I will face my fear. I will permit it to pass over me and through me. And when it has gone past I will turn my inner eye to see its path. Where the fear has gone there will be nothing. Only I will remain.

If it is 1,2 it should be the ABS-version. Original is available in 0.6, 1.0 and 1.3. ABS in 1.2, 1.5 and 1.8 I think. I am waiting for a 0.6 version.

Perhaps you should try Poser Attack in 1,5 mm, less friction and a little more control I think. But if you learn to play with Gorilla and that little extra grip it can be very decieving.

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Def-attack's attempts to find balance between defence/attack | Getting better - health and game |
My Youtube