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PostPosted: 09 Jan 2018, 23:10 
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I would be grateful for advice on how to do this,the dawei pips are notorious for bubbling and creasing.

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2018, 00:05 
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stick the gluesheet on the blade first...

than remove the protective paper from the top side of the sheet...

now put that same paper back on the sticky part of the sheet on the blade, but leave 1-2cm space on the bottom near handle...

now glue the lp only to that 1-2cm and align it well without worries...

now slowly remove more and more of the protective paper to the top and stick the lp...push the air bubbles out if any...

thats all...

if you are paranoid it will wrinkle or you will mess it up anyway, you can use another stick tape used or new, and stick it to the top of the lp (on the pimples). That will make lp stiffer and easier to manoeuvre...

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2018, 00:50 
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I will add that if you are glueing a pre-cut sheet of OX Pips, meaning the rubber was already used on a blade, cut then removed, you may be OCD as I am wanting to make sure the pips cover the entire face of the blade.

I will do what Iceman said, but instead use a transparent plastic film, the kind used for overhead projectors. (Btw, you can sometimes buy single sheets from a printing store) I place the pips on the transparent film, leaving the bottom near the handle hanging over. Because it's transparent, you can see exactly where the rubber would line up without sticking it down.

.

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2018, 01:21 
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Iceman has nailed it. This is exactly how I do it, and it works every time.

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2018, 03:27 
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Another bit of advice, for when you get bubbles. If you can get a hold of an insulin syringe, this works gloriously for deflating bubbles. The needle is so small it does nothing to the rubber, and you just retract the syringe and the air will be sucked out instantly. Literally no bubble is too small. Saved many sheets for me.

I recommend inserting the needle on the side of the bubble and not directly on top of it.

You will be amazed at how well this works.

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2018, 13:41 
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Only thing I would say is that most glue sheets have a really sticky side and a mildly sticky side.
If you want to test various pips make sure the sticky side is on the wood. Then you can switch out pip sheets easily.

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2018, 20:10 
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Ehimle wrote:
Only thing I would say is that most glue sheets have a really sticky side and a mildly sticky side.
If you want to test various pips make sure the sticky side is on the wood. Then you can switch out pip sheets easily.


Is that "most glue sheets" or one or two brands? I remember reading something about this, it was a particular brand, but I don't recall what the brand was. I think you're actually supposed to put the really sticky side on the RUBBER, the whole rubber sheet can then be removed together with the glue sheet to stick on other blades.

There's also Innoglue:

https://www.amazon.com/iNNOGLUE-Table-T ... ref=sr_1_6

Image

which works in the same way - you apply it ONLY to the rubber, the rubber can then easily be removed and stuck onto another blade easily. Not sure how it would work with OX pips however. Been wanting to try some, but shipping from the US is the killer.

Incidentally, the one sheet of Giant Dragon Cropcircles I had to deal with came with a glue sheet already attached to the rubber. An easy matter of peeling back the backing sheet bit by bit and smoothing the rubber onto the blade.

Japsican wrote:
Another bit of advice, for when you get bubbles. If you can get a hold of an insulin syringe, this works gloriously for deflating bubbles. The needle is so small it does nothing to the rubber, and you just retract the syringe and the air will be sucked out instantly. Literally no bubble is too small. Saved many sheets for me.


I've done this with regular cloth pins. Safety pins work, too. Just poke a hole and press down. And I ALWAYS get _some_ bubbles no matter how careful I am. This is actually an old Monokote trick (when using Monokote trim sheets to put decorations on your model plane wings).

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2018, 21:31 
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Ehimle wrote:
Only thing I would say is that most glue sheets have a really sticky side and a mildly sticky side.
If you want to test various pips make sure the sticky side is on the wood. Then you can switch out pip sheets easily.
I never had one... But even if u have it, imo you should put the more sticky side to the rubber and less sticky to the blade, so you can easily remove rubber with the glue sheet from the blade and stick it to some ether blade...

Edit: lol just saw Iskandar said the same

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PostPosted: 10 Jan 2018, 23:40 
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iskandar taib wrote:
I've done this with regular cloth pins. Safety pins work, too. Just poke a hole and press down. And I ALWAYS get _some_ bubbles no matter how careful I am. This is actually an old Monokote trick (when using Monokote trim sheets to put decorations on your model plane wings).

Iskandar

Using regular pins can work of course, but you have to make a hole large enough to have air come out and sometimes you need to finesse it and the pressing down may be uneven causing the rubber to lay unevenly, especially if the bubble stretches the sheet a little.

With the insulin needle, there is no need to push down the bubble, because there's a hole built in to the needle, and the vacuum created by pulling back on the plunger creates a vacuum in the bubble causing a perfect flattening. It's really satisfying. Side note: it's even more satisfying draining fluids from an abscess or a blister when doing woundcare...but I'll stop there so I don't gross people out. :devil:
But the point is, it sucks down perfectly and everything is aligned, satisfying even the most OCD pips users (I hate when the pips are even slightly wonky).

And the insulin needle gauge is smaller than virtually any pin or needle one has in the house, so there is literally no damage to the topsheet where a pin or sewing needle might leave a small albeit insignificant divot in the rubber.

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PostPosted: 14 Jan 2018, 22:45 
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Ehimle wrote:
Only thing I would say is that most glue sheets have a really sticky side and a mildly sticky side.
If you want to test various pips make sure the sticky side is on the wood. Then you can switch out pip sheets easily.


I usually do the other way. Stick the mildly sticky side on the blade first, then attach the LP to the really sticky side. This way I can remove the LP with the glue sheet attached and can be remounted on another blade easily. LP removed with glue sheet attached stay stretched and will not wrinkle up into a ball of mess.

Also, putting a layer of water base glue on the blade before sticking the glue sheet on will make removing the glue sheet easier.

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PostPosted: 15 Jan 2018, 06:20 
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I finally got around to sticking the pips on and used 111Iceman111`s tip of adding tape to the pips side of the rubber.I used some 1 inch paper masking tape reducing the tack on it slightly by sticking it to my arm 3 times or so before applying it to the pips,I put 1 strip just above the info bar one accross the centre and one near the top,this worked a treat and the pips went on easily using an aerosol can for a roller,I was worried that I might pull some pips away when removing the tape but reducing the tack might have helped prevent that and they are ok.
I did consider putting the stickier side onto the blade but I felt that it would pull up some wood fibres when removing especially on my unsealed blade
Iskander up till recently I was using a 2 in 1 glue that stays on the blade allowing quick interchange of ox pips (very handy when testing)but Iwanted to try a gluesheet to see if it would add anything to chopping and I feel it does improve the control and backspin slightly,not sure why perhaps the pips have a stronger bond and a slight cushioning with the gluesheet(Gewo cleanstick)

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PostPosted: 12 Mar 2018, 19:15 
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Water based glue is the best for ox rubbers, gluesheet gives the rubber more speed.

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PostPosted: 12 Mar 2018, 19:35 
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Japsican wrote:
Another bit of advice, for when you get bubbles. If you can get a hold of an insulin syringe, this works gloriously for deflating bubbles. The needle is so small it does nothing to the rubber, and you just retract the syringe and the air will be sucked out instantly. Literally no bubble is too small. Saved many sheets for me.

I recommend inserting the needle on the side of the bubble and not directly on top of it.

You will be amazed at how well this works.


Great idea! I'll have to try this.

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