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PostPosted: 04 Apr 2019, 03:08 
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Goodness gracious - how many different rubbers do you need at a given time? :lol:

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 04 Apr 2019, 12:07 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
iskandar taib wrote:
Goodness gracious - how many different rubbers do you need at a given time? :lol:

Iskandar


I know right ? :whew: :D :lol:

I have gotten over match jitters and I am comfortable playing at tournaments. I have now developed a new problem of facing receives when at 8-x , 9-9, 10-x. :headbang: I never used to have a problem fighting to get to 10-10 or go 11-9 / 11-8 etc. Why is it a problem suddenly NOW ? I get nervous at the end of the game. |( |-) Anyways that is a problem for a different day.

Right now, the different rubbers help with different aspects of my gameplay. Hence my using the term "training" rubbers.

For FH looping, I pick and choose rubbers that DON'T work well for smashing .... but produce decent amount of either spin or speed but not extreme amounts. I request Pips-Out players for some practice sessions to get the FH basics and advanced looping drilled in .... and I try to ADD spin or speed or a combination that can land on the table. I forcefully try to get more out of each stroke, push when I not confident enough to lift the ball. Based on the error-rates and where the ball clears the net, I can judge if the loop action is good enough or not.

There is a lot of failures before success becomes apparent. This is how I figured out Yasaka Shining Dragon 100% suited by gameplay. Yasaka Rising Dragon was more of a "training" rubber. YSD was the competitive edge I needed.

But still I need to learn to spin even more explosively. My FH strokes are not "good enough" compared to higher level players.

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 04 Apr 2019, 12:57 
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You know, if you didn't try so many rubbers, you could have stocked enough YSD for a few years :lol: .


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PostPosted: 04 Apr 2019, 14:44 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
lasta wrote:
You know, if you didn't try so many rubbers, you could have stocked enough YSD for a few years :lol: .


At 800 INR for TWO rubbers Yinhe9000 and 900 INR for TWO rubbers 729SuperFX or 729-OEM or 729-02 ..... I couldnt have even bought ONE Yasaka Shining Dragon which is 2600 INR .... so far I got like ....

6 729 rubbers ( 2x 729-SuperFX, 2x 729-OEM ( black rubber / blue sponge ) , 2x 729-02 )

that is for the price of about 2 YSDs ! Again ... training rubbers .... over 2 to 3 years ... I have gone through all of them now ... I have bought 2 pairs of YSD and 2 pairs of YRD .... 1 pair of each is both gone :-P This was early stock ... so durability problem / manufacturing defects ... ( Yasaka REPLACED 1 YRD !!!! topsheet separation inside sealed packet ... you wont get that from the Chinese!) ...

I am an EJ ! :lol: for the prices being quoted ... I HARDLY went nuts buying tons of expensive rubbers! :?: :lol: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

RakzaX <--- gifted by a friend :-D , Palio Thors I bought on a whim

pair of Rakza7 <--- VERY recent ... like 2 or 3 months back :lol:

Xiom Vega Asia <--- see above :lol: :lol: :lol:

Xiom Omega V Asia <---- seeeee aaaaboooooove :lol: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :lol: ( still unopened in new packet )

NEW 1 pair of YSD and 1 YRD <------ ;) :^) :?: :lol: :lol: :lol: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :D :D unopened as of yet ... I dont want to waste these rubbers :lol: :lol: :lol:


So you can see, the EJ is VERY VERY STRONG inside me :-D

:D :whew: :lol: :lol: :lol: RIP Bank Account :-D :lol:

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 02 May 2019, 02:03 
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man_iii wrote:

At 800 INR for TWO rubbers Yinhe9000


You're paying too much.. :lol:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2x-Gala ... 53505.html

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 02 May 2019, 08:12 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
iskandar taib wrote:
man_iii wrote:

At 800 INR for TWO rubbers Yinhe9000


You're paying too much.. :lol:

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/2x-Gala ... 53505.html

Iskandar


And both of the rubbers are now delaminated and topsheet separated.

I have reused the old YRD + "Pink"-sponge 729 SuperFX .... YRD topsheet looking more more likely to separate ...

So far, Dawei ??844-1??D, Yinhe9000, YRD have not survived continuous re-glueing on blades.

729, YSD, mostly DHS H3 / H2 / H3N / TG2N , Palio Thors, survived the re-glueings.

Recently forced to switch glues to Butterfly FreeChack-II ... let us say NOT WORTH THE PRICE. It just doesn't have the holding power like DHS No.15 glue ... or my own combo of FineZip + Stiga Optimum + Andro VOC-free glue ... secret sauce and all that :lol: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 02 May 2019, 08:31 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
Several weeks of illness and poor health put an end to my FH power tests. Shoulder has started acting up so I have eased back from attempted "power" loops.

1. Chinese rubbers that are mostly slow tend to lose their high-spin properties as well. Always re-glue with some short-term or long-term boosters to keep it fast and high-spin as possible. ( Not practical for me ... so I have stopped boosting training rubbers )

2. YSD or Rakza7/X on FH and Palio Thors or H3Neo on BH ... There isn't much out there that feels comfortable enough.

3. Short-block, push /cut still very difficult to keep extremely short.

Actions to increase power on FH:

I am going to try out :

a) Wrist-flicks/forearm-rotation for either FH or BH ... use body only for mid- or far- table returns with compact strokes and mid-table bounce returns.

b) Thinnest brush on the ball, complete closed racket angle from start to finish, counter-loops and no loop-drives.

c) Push with lift outside table, cut with sudden stop inside table.

d) Outside table blocks without changing closed racket angle ... I think I have to start fishing if ball is too deep or dips too low.

Lets see how all this works out ... Will I prevent injury and find some new higher plateau for my FH loops.

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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PostPosted: 04 May 2019, 03:50 
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man_iii wrote:
And both of the rubbers are now delaminated and topsheet separated.

I have reused the old YRD + "Pink"-sponge 729 SuperFX .... YRD topsheet looking more more likely to separate ...

So far, Dawei ??844-1??D, Yinhe9000, YRD have not survived continuous re-glueing on blades.

729, YSD, mostly DHS H3 / H2 / H3N / TG2N , Palio Thors, survived the re-glueings.

Recently forced to switch glues to Butterfly FreeChack-II ... let us say NOT WORTH THE PRICE. It just doesn't have the holding power like DHS No.15 glue ... or my own combo of FineZip + Stiga Optimum + Andro VOC-free glue ... secret sauce and all that :lol: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:


You've GOT to be doing something wrong. If you're constantly moving rubbers around from blade to blade that's probably what it is. I don't know what the Japanese and Germans use to glue on the topsheets to the sponge, but whatever it is, you'll destroy the rubber before you can get them to separate (supposedly boiling works..). What the Chinese use is something else altogether - even then, though, I can count the sheets that actually separated whilst on the bat on the fingers of one hand. A couple sat in the bag for 2-3 years, and a couple were sheets of KTL Something Star (the one with the two layer sponge) which separated about a week after I put them on. I did have sheets of Corbor and 868 separate while in the packet, after I kept them in the pile for maybe 3-4 years.

Why are you using water based glue at all? Do you play where they sniff your rubber with a VOC meter? Can you not get Elmer's Rubber Cement at all?

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 07 May 2019, 04:42 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
I most definitely agree with you on the topsheet separation on Yasaka Rising Dragon problem. I tend to move rubbers around a LOT! So far, the recent spate of Chinese and YRD and Palio rubbers have NOT survived my removing and re-glueing done so far Dawei and the Yinhe 9000 especially bad :headbang:

What has survived is Yasaka Rakza 7/9/X and to some degree Shining Dragon, Xiom Omega V Tour , Xiom Vega Asia , obviously all my 729 rubbers , DHS H3 / H3N / H2 / TG2Neo , one TSP Spectol :-D , Palio Thors, and some other rubbers I fail to recollect.

Normally I will add Acetone drop-by-drop under the glue layer on the wood surface which will wick the acetone and help easily lift the rubber sheet glue and all off the wood. If there is PU varnish the acetone will cosmetically react and create white streaks ... doesn't affect anything ... just re-sand and clean ... apply fresh glue and re-glue the rubber to the blade.

Recently :@ :swear: I stopped doing the above and have been very very impatient and been ripping the sheets off and re-glueing :@ :swear: :rofl: :lol: :lol: :devil: :devil: :devil:

So it is my own stupidity of not following my own advice that are destroying these "fragile" sheets :P |( :?: :lol: :lol: :rofl: :rofl: :rofl: :cash: :@ :@ :@

So Acetone -> YRD removal is MUST! :lol: :rofl: :lol: :rofl: :lol: :rofl:

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


Last edited by man_iii on 07 May 2019, 04:50, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: 07 May 2019, 04:48 
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Blade: TSP Versal CP
FH: Sanwei Target National
BH: Yasaka Rakza 9
And on the note of WHY I use WBG glue, it is because of my constant changing the Blade + Rubber combo :lol: :lol: :lol:

Like I may have mentioned before somewhere :lol: I have different categorization and reason for owning each blade ;) :P :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

1. Training Rubber , Training Blade.

2. Blocking Rubber, Blocking Blade.

3. All-Round Rubber, All-Round Blade.

4. Off+++ Rubber, OFF++++ Blade :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

5. J-Pen blade :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

6. SP Rubber, no idea why I have this :rofl: :rofl: :rofl:

IMAGINE! HOW MANY PERMUTATION / COMBINATIONS I CAN DO ! :devil: :devil: :devil:

With Rubber cement I am sure to destroy either rubber or blade while trying to remove ;( :whew: :lol: :lol: :rofl: :rofl:

_________________
__________________________________________________________
Backup C-pen blades:
  • TSP Black Balsa 7.0 :
    1. FH/BH-729OEM/729SuperFX
    2. FH/BH-STN
  • 729 Bomb : FH/BH-YRD/T5QS
  • DHS PowerG-9 : FH/BH-729SuperFX
  • Stag Balsa Koto : FH/BH-YRD/YR9
Fun blades:
  • Yasaka Battle Balsa(ST) : FH/BH-YSD
==========================================================


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 Profile  
 
PostPosted: 07 May 2019, 12:52 
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Actually rubber cement is much easier to remove that WBG.

Try to mixed method, WBG on sponge and rubber cement/speed glue on blade.

I've done that for years, never splinters, blade is pretty much clean.


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PostPosted: 08 May 2019, 06:24 
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man_iii wrote:
With Rubber cement I am sure to destroy either rubber or blade while trying to remove ;( :whew: :lol: :lol: :rofl: :rofl:


WHAT??? Whereever did you get THIS idea?????? Actually, rubber cement is FAR BETTER when it comes to removing rubber than water based cements are. You NEVER heard of peeling blades before this water-based glue business got started.

Mind you, "rubber cement" means actual RUBBER CEMENT. Like the stuff Elmer's sells. It's meant for TEMPORARILY gluing paper onto paper when doing magazine page layups (which people used to do manually before the likes of Pagemaker came along). It does NOT mean shoe glue, formica countertop glue, tire repair glue, or the yellow tube UHU glue. This stuff.

Image

By the way, try Ronson lighter fluid instead of acetone for removing rubber. Works better and faster.

Iskandar


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