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PostPosted: 14 May 2019, 15:00 
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In the money saving exercise, instead of buying new rubber, I would like to move rubber from one racket to another to see how it plays.
I have used Donic glue sheet when applying the original rubber, and when I tried to peel, it's coming off nice and easy in the single piece.
Stuck it back in, it sits like nothing happened.

I am not sure whether I should reapply the glue before sticking it on another racket, should I?
It might be able to stick as it is, pretty sticky.

There is no issue with racket head size it appears, a bit of trimming will be required.

Thanks!!!!


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PostPosted: 14 May 2019, 15:52 
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I think it's worthwhile to put a single layer of glue onto the blade that you're moving it to. You don't want take a chance of loose bits in the middle of the rubber, which will make it inconsistent.

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PostPosted: 14 May 2019, 17:39 
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If the blade is sealed then the glue tends to remain on the rubber not the blade, so yes a thin coat on the blade will at least be needed.


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PostPosted: 14 May 2019, 17:51 
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I guess that depends on how sticky the glue sheet is on the blade side. These sheets are designed to have a strong bond on the rubber side and a weaker bond on the blade side, and I suspect it'll work just fine without the glue on the blade. Someday I'd like to get some of that Innoglue - with that, you just put the glue on the rubber, and you don't need any on the blade. It becomes like a post-it note, you can keep removing the rubber from the blade and sticking it back on.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 14 May 2019, 18:05 
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I just switched 2 sheets from frame ....
I removed all glue from wood and rubber and just glued as it was new.
Once I left the glue (because it's a crappy work to remove) but the rubber is not nice and flat.

I don't use speed glue or anything as it's forbidden here .. just normal non toxic glue.

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PostPosted: 14 May 2019, 18:35 
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GarField000 wrote:
I just switched 2 sheets from frame ....
I removed all glue from wood and rubber and just glued as it was new.
Once I left the glue (because it's a crappy work to remove) but the rubber is not nice and flat.
I don't use speed glue or anything as it's forbidden here .. just normal non toxic glue.


Oh... i didn't think of that...removing the glue from both.
That sounds like a neat thing to do... if possible.
Wasn't sure the glue will come off the rubber.
But if it does, that's a winner.


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PostPosted: 14 May 2019, 19:02 
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It does, you can push it off with your thumb.
It only takes a long time as you want to keep your sponge :D

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Setup: Stiga Cybershape Wood / FH:Tibhar Evolution FX-D / BH: S&T Hellfire X 0x


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PostPosted: 14 May 2019, 21:02 
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GarField000 wrote:
It does, you can push it off with your thumb.
It only takes a long time as you want to keep your sponge :D



Instead of thumb, you can rub with a table tennis ball and much easier


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PostPosted: 14 May 2019, 22:32 
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GarField000 wrote:
It does, you can push it off with your thumb.
It only takes a long time as you want to keep your sponge :D

Yes, definitely, would like to keep the sponge :)


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PostPosted: 15 May 2019, 03:02 
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I don't bother removing the glue. It's an annoyance and I don't think it affects anything. By the time you've got enough buildup to worry about, you've already reglued the rubber 4 or 5 times and the topsheet looks kinda shot anyway.. If I boost, the booster just goes on top of the accumulated glue - it soaks right through and softens the glue, so I don't need to apply any additional glue on the rubber. I just put another layer of Elmer's on the blade, the rubber, if dry, just plops on. In the old speed-gluing days you HAD to do this ever so often, because you applied (a lot) more glue every time you played! After 7 or 8 re-gluings the glue got REALLY thick on the rubber.

Iskandar


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PostPosted: 15 May 2019, 05:43 
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I have installed 100+ Donic glue sheets over the years, so from my experience..

1. No glue is ever needed.
2. Always start with a completely clean blade, i.e. no old glue residue or dirt/dust.
3. Be mindful of the Donic instructions as to which side of the glue sheet attaches to the rubber and which side attaches to the blade.. this is important!
4. Attach the weak side of the glue sheet to the blade first. Trim to blade. Then attach the rubber to the strong side of the glue sheet. Then trim the rubber. Most rubbers stick permanently to the strong side but I've encountered one or two that don't stick at all, probably due to factory tuners.
5. Once attached, press firmly to ensure complete bond.
6. Thereafter, you should be able to peel off your rubber+glue sheet and re-apply to other blades 5-10X, at least. The cleaner the target blades are, the less contaminated the weak side adhesive will become, and the longer you'll be able to re-use it.
7. Removing the glue sheet from the rubber is possible in most cases if performed slowly, but certain rubbers' sponges are so weak/attain such a strong bond to the glue sheet that removing the glue sheet destroys the sponge.
8. Glue sheets like Donic's are the best way, imho, to apply OX LP, as well as any rubber you want to be able to quickly move between different blades.
9. Trivia: Each Donic glue sheet adds approx. 2g to your paddle's overall weight!


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PostPosted: 15 May 2019, 08:54 
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nathanso wrote:
I have installed 100+ Donic glue sheets over the years, so from my experience..
......
6. Thereafter, you should be able to peel off your rubber+glue sheet and re-apply to other blades 5-10X, at least. The cleaner the target blades are, the less contaminated the weak side adhesive will become, and the longer you'll be able to re-use it.
7. Removing the glue sheet from the rubber is possible in most cases if performed slowly, but certain rubbers' sponges are so weak/attain such a strong bond to the glue sheet that removing the glue sheet destroys the sponge.
8. Glue sheets like Donic's are the best way, imho, to apply OX LP, as well as any rubber you want to be able to quickly move between different blades.
9. Trivia: Each Donic glue sheet adds approx. 2g to your paddle's overall weight!


Great info... and I love Donic glue sheets, no mess at all!


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PostPosted: 15 May 2019, 09:44 
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Another reason to use a layer of blue on the blade when using glue sheets, is to prevent damaging the blade when the glue sheet is removed.

I used to use glue sheets until I destroyed a heavily laquered (by me) 92g BT555 while removing one. I bought another BT555, 87g, with rubbers glued and blade sealed, but unfortunately it also splintered when removing the rubbers - I think the rubbers were glued before the blade sealant was completely dry. I've had bad luck with BT555s :P That last one was too light and slow for me anyway.


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PostPosted: 15 May 2019, 17:40 
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I never used glue sheets (or even heard off it here in holland), just glue ...
Put glue on both parts ... let it dry and place the rubber on the frame.
I replace new rubbers twice a year and have been using the same frame for 8 years.
I only replaced it when I broke the bat by something else.

So my advise off removing glue was not about a sheet.

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PostPosted: 16 May 2019, 04:45 
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