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Best blade for counter-drive/active block/smash?
Mizutani Jun (ZLC blade) 17%  17%  [ 1 ]
Timo Boll Spirit (ALC blade) 17%  17%  [ 1 ]
Other 67%  67%  [ 4 ]
Total votes : 6
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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2014, 16:59 
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For starters, let me mention a little bit about my playing style. Since I have posted this in another thread, I'll copy and paste.

"I almost never slow loop or loop with a high arc. In fact, we can pretty much say never. In short game, I mostly provoke attack but don't open it; wait for the opponent to take initiative, block or counter-drive to get them out of position, then go for a drive/smash kill shot. I definitely backhand block quite a lot. Against choppers, rather than loop them to death, I mix up loop drives and pushing, (depending on the amount of backspin), and ideally wait for a more dead ball to put away or keep them running closer/farther from the table until they're out of position/make a mistake. "

Now with that said, I've gone ahead and ordered a couple sheets of Bryce Speed.

I just can't figure out what blade to get, but I've pretty much narrowed my window down to the Mizutani Jun or the Timo Boll Spirit. Given that BS is a low-throw hard rubber, it seems the zylon in the JM might balance it out for looping, and make my shots safer to clear the net. Conversely, I've heard things about ZLC blades having quite a bit of bounce and 'catapult effect', and given that I'd be blocking a lot with quite a hard, fast, rubber, this is something I definitely do not want.

If anyone thinks a different blade would be ideal for this rubber combination/playing style, feel free to make suggestions. Thanks !

If this makes any difference, I play around 1600 - 1650 USATT


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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2014, 19:15 
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A couple of questions first. How long have you been playing for? Bearing in mind that US 1600ish is a the lower end of intermediate (I dont mean to be rude by saying this :) ), what factors in your game are keeping you at the standard you are at (is your control/consistency an issue?)? Is there any particular reason why you dont loop (it almost sounds like you should be using SP)?

For your style of game i would ordinarily suggest a stiffish fast blade however if your control and consistency are holding you back then i would hold off somewhat on the speed side of things until you improve your ball control. The other thing is that at your current level you really dont need to spend so much money on equipment. Remember, another active block/smash player - He Zhiwen - uses some old $10 DHS blade.


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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2014, 19:51 
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carbonman wrote:
A couple of questions first. How long have you been playing for? Bearing in mind that US 1600ish is a the lower end of intermediate (I dont mean to be rude by saying this :) ), what factors in your game are keeping you at the standard you are at (is your control/consistency an issue?)? Is there any particular reason why you dont loop (it almost sounds like you should be using SP)?

For your style of game i would ordinarily suggest a stiffish fast blade however if your control and consistency are holding you back then i would hold off somewhat on the speed side of things until you improve your ball control. The other thing is that at your current level you really dont need to spend so much money on equipment. Remember, another active block/smash player - He Zhiwen - uses some old $10 DHS blade.


No offense taken :)

The reason I would guess I'm at around 1600 is that I haven't played for 7 years, and just started playing again a month and a half ago.

And I should have been a little more descript: I do loop. But I do not choose to open a point up with a high arc loop or a slow loop; I haven't ever known it to be necessary. And I'm not looking for the buckwild high arc and demigod topspin of Tenergy or its likenesses; just doesn't suit my game. Specifically, I will loop drive at any chance I get; and prefer to end a point quickly rather than draw it out. Short pips don't work well for me, as I can't get enough spin on low topspin/sidespin loops when I do choose to implement them. My control is not an issue. Placement even at higher speeds is not a hinderance. And I do very much thrive on low throw rubbers. The active blocking occurs on both wings, but moreso on the backhand.


Maybe I underestimate my rating..? From the way you're talking it sounds like you think I play at a bit lower of a level than I do :?: My assessment of my probable rating consists of playing a few active players at the club over the last few weeks. Beat a few people around 1600 pretty easily, lost to a few people 1750 - 1800. Once I work out the rust in my gameplay I guess I'll see where I'm at.


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PostPosted: 20 Jul 2014, 20:08 
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7 years off is a long time and if you will not doubt improve considerably over the coming months.

Have you tried the blades of others at your club? Its a good idea to give you an idea of what feels good for you. Im only guessing (other forum members would no doubt know more than me regarding this) but perhaps something stiff and fast and carbony like a Gergely could be what you are after (?).


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PostPosted: 21 Jul 2014, 03:50 
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Well, I just found out that the guy who makes the BBC (Blades by Charlie) blades, Charlie himself, is based out of a club that's a 20 - 25 minute drive from my house. Must be my lucky day

I suppose I'll ask an admin to delete the thread


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PostPosted: 21 Jul 2014, 04:28 
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Blade: Donic Persson Power Play
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Don't hate, renovate.

Consider leaving thread open and post your fun adventures. Even OOAK shop is on good terms with Charlie, so have at it.

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PostPosted: 21 Jul 2014, 10:15 
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Blade: Tiago Apolonia ZLC
FH: Rhyzer 50
BH: Donic Acuda Blue P3
If you still want to choose between tbs and Mizutani, choose mizutani. For active blocks, it is effective. The first time I shifted from tbs to MJ, I did not made a lot of adjustment but instead, my game immediately improved. The control is still there, but the counter drive, top spin, spin drive are more powerful. What I noticed is I can block better and it is faster.

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PostPosted: 21 Jul 2014, 12:00 
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Red_lion wrote:
If you still want to choose between tbs and Mizutani, choose mizutani. For active blocks, it is effective. The first time I shifted from tbs to MJ, I did not made a lot of adjustment but instead, my game immediately improved. The control is still there, but the counter drive, top spin, spin drive are more powerful. What I noticed is I can block better and it is faster.


Thanks! I'll keep that in mind.

Out of curiosity, can anyone comment on the difference between the Mizutani and the Innerforce ZLC? They seem almost.. too similar. does having the ZLC ply one closer to the center really make a gamechanging difference? (only people who have actually used both, please)


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PostPosted: 29 Jul 2014, 08:07 
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From your description it looks that we have a very similar playing style. I have always prefered allwood blades over carbon(classic carbon) blades that is. I have not much experience with ALC and ZLC blades except for Innerforce ALC and Hayabusa ZXI. Although they feel a lot better than classic carbon blades (more woody feel and better dwelltime), they still can ben the fast side (especially the Hayabusa ZXI), the innerforce alc is actually not so fast and a very good blocking blade but perhaps a bit slow. My favorite blade is the Juic Nebula/Butterfly Power Drive, since that's pretty hard to get I suggest a Clipper or a similar 7 ply limba/ayous blade. I use a clipper myself nowadays. If you do want to get an alc blade get a Timo Boll ALC, stay away from zlc blades (they are too fast and catapulty).

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PostPosted: 30 Jul 2014, 03:44 
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Blade: Zhang Jike SZLC
FH: Tenergy 05 2.1 Blk
BH: Tenergy 05 2.1 Red
sitarplayer31 wrote:
Red_lion wrote:
If you still want to choose between tbs and Mizutani, choose mizutani. For active blocks, it is effective. The first time I shifted from tbs to MJ, I did not made a lot of adjustment but instead, my game immediately improved. The control is still there, but the counter drive, top spin, spin drive are more powerful. What I noticed is I can block better and it is faster.


Thanks! I'll keep that in mind.

Out of curiosity, can anyone comment on the difference between the Mizutani and the Innerforce ZLC? They seem almost.. too similar. does having the ZLC ply one closer to the center really make a gamechanging difference? (only people who have actually used both, please)


I have 2 innerforce ZLC one is 89 grams & the other 93 grams. The heavier one is easier to control (less catapult) but is a tad heavy and struggles to take 2 new generation rubbers.
I have not used the Mizutani but have used the Amultart, Photino, TBS, TB ALC etc.
Difference with having the ZLC nearer the middle of the blade is that it gives better touch i.e. Better short game and then on harder hits it's very offensive. The downside is the middle gear where it's not linear.
I can't really speak for the Mizutani but the IF ZLC is a difficult blade and would guess that it's a tad slower than the Mizutani.
Of the blades you mentioned the ALC would be the more sensible choice and from the TB ALC that I had briefly it's more of a loopers blade.
The SZLC from Zhang Jike is a superb blade but given the price the newer Xiom Vega blades would be worth looking into which uses a carbon similar to the SZLC of butterfly at a third of the price. If you're not really looking at looping it might be worth looking at the Xiom Vega Tour with the hinoki outer pile which has a spec sheet stating that it can take a harder rubber. The one that I have at the moment the Europe model is a very impressive bllade but due to it's lightness misses out in the power department.


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