OOAK Table Tennis Forum

Folks,
didn't want to muddle my other open thread, so decided to ask this question separately.

While I understand the general recommendation for beginners/mid level players is to stick with the same rubber on both FH/BH, I think my style of play screams of going with separates (in my opinion, of course).
I'm much more offensive loop/topspin on the FH, but a lot of slice/underspin/block on the BH. In addition, there are a lot of chop/slice players in the club where I'm playing, and my level of the game is not quite at the point where I'm able to loop attack a short underspin coming to my BH. So pretty much forced to slice back, unless it's longer and I have room to let the ball stay in the air longer and come back with a loop.
As I'm looking to get a Yasaka Sweden Extra, and given that I'm definitely not ready to use Tensors just yet, I and was thinking of putting Mark V on it instead. Should I do it for both sides for now, or is there a rubber in that class/level of control that would fit my BH better?

Alex

Hi, from my experience with all the recommended beginner rubber, here are your choices:

FH:
If you are certain that you have relatively larger stroke rather than just tapping the ball, DHS H3 NEO could work.
Otherwise, Mark V works fine.

BH:
Yasaka Mark V is a good one. Just overpriced.
You can also try something like Palio Ak47 Blue or other entry-level soft tensors.
Something like CJ8000 isn't the most lively on the backhand side but could give you some extra spin on pushes.

What is an example of the Europian / Japanese entry-level tensor?


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Your current style of pushing/chopping/blocking on the BH and attacking more on the FH is very very common for new players. Assuming you train and perhaps get coaching your game will change and develop over time. As such, what you use now (on either side) is not that big a deal, just so as long as your rubber is of reasonable quality. Just go with some of the less expensive recommendations and review things in 6 months time.

Since you don't attack with your bh much, here are some ideas for you to consider.

A lot of info here in one place. Read the intro then make your decision, well worth 5-10 minutes of your time.

Link .... North Little Rock Table Tennis Group timeline page on Facebook

https://m.facebook.com/NorthLittleRockT ... =bookmarks

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Panda Drive / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Xiom Omega IV Elite Max / Play right-handed
XVT balsa carbon 10mm / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH Globe 979 Long Pips OX / Play Left-handed shakehand
Stiga Def Wood / 4H Xiom Sigma Pro 2 2.0 / BH GD CC LP OX .. Play Left-handed
Cpen SOS Wood / 4H 729 802-40 2.0 / BH GD Talon use righthanded shakehand grip
HARDBAT / Shakehand Hock 3 ply / Friendship Dr Evil OX .. Play Right-handed

that facebook group is terrible to navigate and takes far longer than 5-10 minutes of your time.

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Chasse Patate

NEW RUBBER MASS INDEX || OLD RUBBER MASS INDEX

+1


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Judging from the last time this particular Facebook page came up for discussion, it's main thesis is that beginners should put long pips on the backhand because it allows them to deal with spinny serves. And the last time it came up for discussion I strongly disagreed with this - sure, long pips on the backhand is a viable choice but it should not be something to be used to cover up a weakness that beginners have. Beginners are beginning to learn strokes and deal with spin, giving them a crutch to lean on in the beginning means they'll never develop those skills. Long pips would be something to try AFTERWARDS as a weapon, not as a crutch. Now, of course, if someone has been playing for 10 years and is still stuck around 1000 because they still can't return 1200 level serves, then, sure, go for the crutch. Similarly there are those who have physical challenges or have mobility issues. But I really wouldn't suggest that beginners do this just because they can't return serves at their current stage of development.

As far as tensors vs. non-tensors are concerned - from personal experience I don't think there's THAT much of a difference. Or at least, I've tried several of the faster tensors/tension rubbers (short of Tenergy which is really expensive) and haven't found one yet that's difficult to play with or that I couldn't handle, this including Rasant Turbo, Evolution MX-P and Rakza X. (Then again, I don't think they make me play any better in any case..) And I'm not that good of a player either.

Iskandar

Quite agree that the use of long pips or other non inverted rubber types should not be juts as a cover for a weakness in a newish player but rather to enhance their natural playing style.

For instance I have been making up some bats for colleagues at work as the next stage from premades and have done the following:

Player 1. A fast reactions get everything back player with natural tendency to push/block/chop on both sides with the occasional fast attack on the FH forehand. I put Xiom Musa 2mm on the FH and Agenda LP 1.0mm on the BH. on his all+ wood blade.

Player 2 Very mobile player who wants to punch block almost everything with his backhand. Spinlord Gipfelsturm 1.5mm on a slow balsa blade suit him well.

Player 3. Plays a strong attacking game with inverted both sides but putting Spinlord Degu 2 1.5mm on his BH on an all+/off- blade is giving him more control at the table with better placement.

Bringing a conversation somewhat back to the original question:
would an "entry level" tensor like Vega Intro or Xiom Musa be a good option for my BH?

Alex

yes

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Chasse Patate

NEW RUBBER MASS INDEX || OLD RUBBER MASS INDEX

I don't think so. I'm missing the logic in that your fh is strong, so you are going to put an outdated terrible rubber on it in MkV, and your bh is relatively weaker, but you are going to put a tensor there.

gambler reflectoid sounds like just the ticket for your bh. It's very controlled but makes nasty backspin when used well.

Try musa or intro or vega pro or rozena or something decent on your fh. MkV or sriver were great in 1985. Using them today without speed glue is just wasting time when you could be developing your game. I did it, based on old-timey recommendations like the ones here. Don't.

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Table tennis, as we find it, is far too hard for us. It brings too much pain, too many disappointments, impossible tasks.

Freud -- Table Tennis and Its Discontents

Musa's not a Tensor, though. And I've no idea what it plays like because I've never tried it..

Seriously, though, I don't think rubber matters very much, especially at this level. Sriver? Sure, that'll work. So would Mark V. So would Rakza 7, or Rasant, or even Evolution MX-P (though you'll be disappointed when it goes flat in a couple months, as most Tensors tend to do). Or GoldArc 5 or TinArc 3. Or Batwings. They will all work, more or less equally well, even if they might not feel the same.

I often can't tell the difference between rubbers, I can tell one's slightly faster than another, but it doesn't really make me change how I play. Blades, though - change the blade and I can tell. I tend to play differently with different blades.

Iskandar

Interesting point, I haven't thought about it this way.
Breaking it down, I believe that on the FH side I'm looking for more speed. Mark V is starting to be too slow for me there.
on the BH, as I mentioned in the beginning, I'm trying to get more consistent in the backspin/chop game, but in the last few weeks I've also realized that I shouldn't really be pandering to all those choppers I'm playing against, and have been trying to attack those slices instead. Needless to say, any rubber that would help me get better at looping a slice - I'm very interested.
Yes, yes, I know, it's all about the proper mechanics/technic

Alex

"Looping a slice" is a matter of technique, something you should practice outside of playing games. Lots of videos on YouTube about it, too. And easier to do on the forehand than on the backhand, and fairly difficult as shots go. Your rubbers are fine, it's the technique that needs work.

Iskandar