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 Post subject: Cloud and Fog 3
PostPosted: 14 Dec 2008, 10:36 
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There appears to be v. little info available on this rubber, do many members have experience of this and could provide info for me.
Is it a close to the table use rubber?

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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2008, 11:05 
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I reviewed it here: cloud and Fog III

It's only available with 1.0mm sponge. I think it suits a chopper 'away from the table' best.

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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2008, 12:15 
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It was one of my favorite long pips when I started playing table tennis, it comes in 1mm sponge, but it one of those that is easy to seperate when softening up the glue with a iron.
Soft, bendy pips with much wobble effect, I like the description in the packing... chops come over like a cloud & fog. But I did use the C&F and C&F3, but I can't remember now how much they differed.
Much slower than C8 though

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PostPosted: 14 Dec 2008, 23:24 
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I used to use this rubber, and I pretty much agree with what's been said. For me, it seems fairly slow, but most others would probably place it as medium paced at least. For once the packaging on the rubber seems to be fairly accurate; that is, it is best for chopping with occasional attacks. Close to the table, you're best off attacking any underspin and stepping back to chop topspin. It was very difficult for me to block with this rubber for some reason... The unique thing about this rubber is the amount of "funkiness" despite it being a fairly grippy rubber. It's far from frictionless mind you, but among similar grippy pips, Cloud and Fog III gives more wobble effects than you'd expect :)

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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 00:31 
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Here's a link to an old review off the net. Note it is outdated as it till includes frictionless so may have changed since then.

Several rubbers are compared and ranked: Curl, feint, destroyer, cloud and fog etc:

http://www.tabletennisdayton.com/pages/ ... bbers.html

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 04:30 
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I managed to obtain a red OX version on e-bay which I tried out early this year. The control was very good when pushing but for my close to the table blocking game it was just too fast. It is in my pile of rejected rubbers. Long live insider.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 08:04 
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haggisv wrote:
I reviewed it here: cloud and Fog III

It's only available with 1.0mm sponge. I think it suits a chopper 'away from the table' best.


Thanks Alex, i went the wrong way at this and trawled through 14 pages of LP threads, doh! It's confusing 'cos some say good close to table - some away, as usual there is not always a definitive, but individual views according to style i guess.

@ MM, how did it play without sponge for you?

@Joo Se Kev, do you actually prefer to play with faster LP's?

@ antipip, many thanks for that, the www is a big place to trawl for info and it all takes time. Actually, the tables given about which is best close to table is really helpful to me, so that is a bonus!

@ Geodor, was it faster IYHO with sponge on or off?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 08:11 
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I had it on a allround classic and no sponge, reminds me of being like destroyer.

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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 12:29 
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IMO, it is fairly fast and hard to control for a long pip. pips are spaced pretty far apart, which is why there is some "random funk" around the table. close to table i think the cf3 is best suited to attacking. pips are too grippy and fast to suit a control block game, and reaction to spin is more than average for a long pip. hitting is pretty easy for a long pip, but the struck balls behave almost like regular rubber to the opponent. you win with power and placement, not spin or funk.

as others have said, the cf3 is quite nice for chopping far from table, provided your blade is soft and slow, IMO. the sponge is too hard, springy, and quick for chopping on a faster blade, IMO, unless you have superb control. I liked this rubber on a slow, soft willow wood, where chops were quite heavy and easy to control. On a faster, firmer blade, too many chops went long.

So, in summary, if you like to attack with lp close to table or chop far from table with a soft, slow wood, cf3 might be for you.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 14:33 
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mozzy wrote:
@Joo Se Kev, do you actually prefer to play with faster LP's?



Well, I spent some time training with short/medium pips for chopping, so going back to long pips after that made them seem quite slow in comparison. Since I spend a lot of time away from the table and I don't do much blocking, I do tend to prefer faster long pips.

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PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 15:06 
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antipip wrote:
Here's a link to an old review off the net. Note it is outdated as it till includes frictionless so may have changed since then.

Several rubbers are compared and ranked: Curl, feint, destroyer, cloud and fog etc:

http://www.tabletennisdayton.com/pages/ ... bbers.html


I'm pretty sure that article refers to the original C & F, not the C & F 3.

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 Post subject: C&F3
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 19:31 
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Hi guys and girls,

I'm new to this forum. Being a daily reader on this forum and crossing this topic, I finally decided to subscribe me on this forum of darklighters. :D

I played with the C&F3 for one year (two to three time a week). I recently changed to the P1-R. My style of playing is a modern defensive game. My regular wood (also the wood I used with this pimple)) is Butterfly Joo Se Hyuk.

* Look : I always go black when it comes to my long pimple. I took a 1,0 mm sponge beneath it. It is of very nice quality, but once played with for a couple of weeks, the centre of the long pimple tends to be deeper black than the surrounding. It keeps most of it's grippiness, though. It becomes funkier when played with a while due to that little loss of grip. Talking about the grippiness : it's quite grippy. The sponge is soft. it's quite fast (faster then P1-R for example).

* Serve and receiving serve : Yes, I occasionally serve with my long pimple to keep variety in the game. You can serve quite deceptive with this long pimple. When serving with a backspin stroke you can add a little amount of backspin on the ball and the ball also tends to float. Serving the ball with a topspin stroke gives you no spin to topspin, depending a how hard you hit it.

Receiving serve is not that easy : especially sidespin can give you trouble. It really grips like an inverted when it comes to receiving this kind of spin. You're less vulnerable to top - or backspin, but when the spin gets heavy, you need to look out. Advantage is that the ball you return is very deceptive and can contain a lot of spin.

* Close to the table : not my real specialty, to be honest. Hitting with it is very deceptive, but again, you need to see what you do against what spin. Hitting with a sidestroke action gives nice sidespin too.

Passive blocking gives floaters, except when you're hit hard : then it gives a decent amount of backspin. Active blocking (blocking with a kind of topspin stroke) lowers the amount of backspin on the ball and let the ball sink on the other side of the table. Chop blocking, when spot on, gives much backspin and the ball can be kept low.

Blocking is not that easy : it is easy when you play against someone who doesn't use much spin (but then it's quite harmless) ; playing against a heavy looper needs very good bat angle - otherwise the ball will fly away. The best players to block against are intermediate players.

* Away from the table : you can vary the amount of spin to a great extend. Chopping balls with (almost) no spin gives a very fast ball. You can also chop quite heavy with it : the returned ball contains a lot of backspin. The ball can be kept on the table quite easy.

Chopping mid distance against a backspin ball gives a nice and low no spin or little tospin ball that is hard to attack again. Hitting from mid distance gives a certain amount of reversal and many opponents misread the timing when the ball will dive to the table. You can also add a good amount of sidespin when hitting (or chopping) the ball with a sidestroke. Again, you need to keep the spin on the ball in mind.

* Conclusion : it's not an easy pimple to control, but a great one. You need to be active with it, otherwise good players will blast you away. When playing active, many good players will struggle with the balls you return. It's a very good pimple for the lower and middle class of play, but once you enter the higher class, you need something that can create a bit more spin on the ball (like the P1-R).

Hope this helped! :)

Cheers,

Lorre

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 19:33 
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haggisv wrote:
antipip wrote:
Here's a link to an old review off the net. Note it is outdated as it till includes frictionless so may have changed since then.

Several rubbers are compared and ranked: Curl, feint, destroyer, cloud and fog etc:

http://www.tabletennisdayton.com/pages/ ... bbers.html


I'm pretty sure that article refers to the original C & F, not the C & F 3.


It's indeed a review of the original C&F.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 21:25 
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Lorre wrote:
haggisv wrote:
antipip wrote:
Here's a link to an old review off the net. Note it is outdated as it till includes frictionless so may have changed since then.

Several rubbers are compared and ranked: Curl, feint, destroyer, cloud and fog etc:

http://www.tabletennisdayton.com/pages/ ... bbers.html


I'm pretty sure that article refers to the original C & F, not the C & F 3.


It's indeed a review of the original C&F.


Hi Lorre,

Welcome, i'm pleased that my thread has teased you onto the forum and thank you for you v. informative input, i'm starting to get a good inclination as to what this can do now and i am going to put it onto a slow blade to see if i can use it more at close to the table.
I do love the wobble effect and funkiness of this rubber, should be ok at my level!

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: 15 Dec 2008, 22:14 
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mdjenders wrote:
IMO, it is fairly fast and hard to control for a long pip. pips are spaced pretty far apart, which is why there is some "random funk" around the table
.


Agreed. A very good rubber, if not an excellent rubber (I know it in OX) if you've loads of control in your chopping.

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